I would say there is almost always plenty of "meat" around the bores to ream to an oversize and get new pins.
Lots of similar problems fixed by welding them in and boring back to standard. Especially useful for things like articulation pivots where making oversize parts is more of a chore than some straight pins.
Seems I'm always dealing with the task of hogged out holes. Some brackets I torch off and make new, some I torch out the holes and replace with DOM tubing, some I align bore in place and install bushings.
I'm a big fan of "Connex" spring bushings.
http://www.connexusa.com/HTML/Spring%20Bushings.html
wow, ya those bushings look interesting.
when you re-did the holes and bushing or/ pins did the blade movement from side to side minimize?
mine will actually rub if give the right circumstances.
its a tool bar blade set/up
thx
scott
It's mainly the function of the diagonal blade braces to keep the push arms parallel. I'd go after them first.
OM has a point the diagonal braces stop the side to side movement. when the blade is removed the diagonal braces stay on the blade and the arms turned to the rear the slides on the side of the track frame check the side to side movement when the tool bar is on the rear.
Chuck C
My 5UD2 has a tool bar and every joint was loose, I welded, bored and made new pins, a lot of work, I like the bushings OM posted,I can why he likes them.
Good suggestion Om.
I've Used spring bushing myself for new pins where there's enough meat to re-bore and they work real guuuud and are replaceable down the track. Certainly saves a lot of hard yakka in welding and re-boring back to nominal size and I like the fact that they are reasonably forgiving in terms of fit.
I also used one in a slogged out idler gear bearing in a winch by boring out 90% of the damaged section to create a reasonably paralell hole and inserting a bronze spring bushing to match the new hole and existing shaft size. Cost about thirty dollars and worked like a treat. The quote to get a new gear cut was 1500 dollars😊
is there some reason you cant use tractor 3PL top links for the diagonal braces that way you can adjust the slop out and the problem would be solved or at least buy you a whole heap of time till you get the time or cashed up enough to fix it properly and they come with different size pins 3/4 - 1 1/2
http://www.ebay.com.au/itm/TLK3011-Tractor-3PL-Top-Link-with-12in-30cm-Tube-Cat-1-3-4in-at-both-ends-/271351015098
Paul
Boy, there is an amazing amount of experience & knowledge here.
I didn't think of that either, could work.
I will look into it. they would have to be big tho.
This Dozer have plenty of issue, seems like all of mine do.
I don't want to inundate the experts here with them all at once.
I took a tumble on Sunday that set me back, as far as working on this thing. i'm back to doing nothing again
so all I'm doing right now is sitting in my recliner, looking at manuals and thinking about how to go about addressing them. (boredom)
The blade is better with the new cylinders, but still not 100 percent, maybe 50 percent better than it was.
really really helpful when you cat skinners reply, I appreciate the help and suggestions. excellent stuff
I thank you all fro the help.
scott