[quote="Nick22australia"]Hi all
I started cleaning up the parts today for the back end of my d2 and I noticed there is a crack on the tapered spline part of the shaft where the right hand side steering clutch hub.
I made a couple of calls today for a replacement but had no luck.
I was thinking if got desperate I could V out the cracked area and fill it with my mig welder then take the time to regrind the taper and the splines back to a satisfactory standard for a machine that's only really for show anyway.
Does anybody out there have any better ideas or knows a reason not to touch it with the welder?[/quote]
Keep looking and advertising. That problem is too deep into the machine to gamble.
[quote="Nick22australia"]Hi all
I started cleaning up the parts today for the back end of my d2 and I noticed there is a crack on the tapered spline part of the shaft where the right hand side steering clutch hub.
I made a couple of calls today for a replacement but had no luck.
I was thinking if got desperate I could V out the cracked area and fill it with my mig welder then take the time to regrind the taper and the splines back to a satisfactory standard for a machine that's only really for show anyway.
Does anybody out there have any better ideas or knows a reason not to touch it with the welder?[/quote]
Keep looking and advertising. That problem is too deep into the machine to gamble.
Yeah that’s the problem,no quick fix if it were to fail
Part number is 4B3704
Thats the same number as in D2 5U1-13237 tractors, should be some good used ones around.
Nick, that shaft is completely shot, you won't be able to fix it with weld. You need to find a good used replacement shaft.
Try Wilson Wrecking in Torbay (West of Albany), or Davey Jones at SwanTrax in Hazelmere.
The proper Cat name for the crown wheel is the bevel gear, and the shaft is the bevel gear shaft.
Hi Nick,
Just throwing some ideas a round, does the threaded hole in the end extend past the crack and into the center section of the shaft? I’d be game to install the hub on the taper tightly but only if the bolt can hook up past the crack. The angle of the break and the force of the hub on the taper may be enough to get you around as a show tractor. I’d be hesitant to put it to work but it might save you the hassle of finding the parts here in oz. We don’t seem to have the parts availability the boys in the US do for these little gems.
I feel the heat generated by welding would probably weaken the shaft and you’d be worse off.
It depends on weather you like to gamble a bit or not 😂😂
Good luck
Hutchy
Hi Nick,
Just throwing some ideas a round, does the threaded hole in the end extend past the crack and into the center section of the shaft? I’d be game to install the hub on the taper tightly but only if the bolt can hook up past the crack. The angle of the break and the force of the hub on the taper may be enough to get you around as a show tractor. I’d be hesitant to put it to work but it might save you the hassle of finding the parts here in oz. We don’t seem to have the parts availability the boys in the US do for these little gems.
I feel the heat generated by welding would probably weaken the shaft and you’d be worse off.
It depends on weather you like to gamble a bit or not 😂😂
Good luck
Hutchy