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D2 24V elec start problem

D2 24V elec start problem

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Claremontcat
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Never had a starting problem until now. Got a battery tender that does 2 at once for winter storage.  Disconnected one battery, hooked up tender to both and green lights all winter. Put battery cables back on, doesn't even click. Measured 25V on starter battery cables - so batteries good. Would the starter switch or solenoids go bad with a tender on the battery?  How do I test the solenoids to see where the problem is? 
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Sat, Mar 1, 2025 6:06 AM
neil
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I don't think so unless somehow when you connected the tender, it was energizing the solenoids but I doubt it. You can test the solenoids initially just by seeing if they make a "click" sound when you energize them. If they don't, use a jumper to go straight from the 24v to the terminal to see if the problem is in the switch circuit. If it does click with the jumper, your switch circuit is faulty. If it doesn't then connect two spare 12 batteries together (can just use jumper leads and attempt to energize the solenoids. Basically just work through the system like that until you find the fault.
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Sat, Mar 1, 2025 8:22 AM
trainzkid88
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Reply to neil:
I don't think so unless somehow when you connected the tender, it was energizing the solenoids but I doubt it. You can test the solenoids initially just by seeing if they make a "click" sound when you energize them. If they don't, use a jumper to go straight from the 24v to the terminal to see if the problem is in the switch circuit. If it does click with the jumper, your switch circuit is faulty. If it doesn't then connect two spare 12 batteries together (can just use jumper leads and attempt to energize the solenoids. Basically just work through the system like that until you find the fault.
you can check the coil winding in the soleniods with a continuity test on a multimeter (disconnect the power feeds first) if they have continuity then the windings are okay. then you can add power to the solenoids to get them to close and see if you getting power on the load side of the solenoid if not its bad go to autoparts joint or autolec and get a new one.
these are generic ones so available anywhere and fairly cheap also they tend to last a long time too.

"i reject your reality and substitute my own" - adam savage. i suspect my final words maybe "well shit, that didnt work"

instead of perfection some times we just have to accept practicality

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Sat, Mar 1, 2025 2:30 PM
juiceman
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Reply to trainzkid88:
you can check the coil winding in the soleniods with a continuity test on a multimeter (disconnect the power feeds first) if they have continuity then the windings are okay. then you can add power to the solenoids to get them to close and see if you getting power on the load side of the solenoid if not its bad go to autoparts joint or autolec and get a new one.
these are generic ones so available anywhere and fairly cheap also they tend to last a long time too.
I have had an occasional starter not work, due to a bad connection; looks like a small fuel leak on the main lead? Wiggle everything to be sure it really has contact.
Per TK88, yes those relays are inexpensive at your local auto parts store; you could jump across main posts to bypass.
Good luck. JM
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Sat, Mar 1, 2025 10:54 PM
Claremontcat
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Problem solved - took the hood off and found a ground wire I pushed out of the way when connecting battery tender.  Proof I guess that good electrical grounding is important.
 
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Sun, Mar 2, 2025 2:16 AM
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