CAT70 Scraper: How to pull front axle stub?

Section inside the tube is straight. Probably going to take several heat/cool cycles with torch to break the rust bond.

Best to use the axle nut to retain a pulling device rather than using the nut/thread as the puller, much like pulling the dead axle on a tractor.

Section inside the tube is straight. Probably going to take several heat/cool cycles with torch to break the rust bond.

Best to use the axle nut to retain a pulling device rather than using the nut/thread as the puller, much like pulling the dead axle on a tractor.

[quote="Old Magnet"]Section inside the tube is straight. Probably going to take several heat/cool cycles with torch to break the rust bond.

Best to use the axle nut to retain a pulling device rather than using the nut/thread as the puller, much like pulling the dead axle on a tractor.[/quote]

The problem that I see with the heat/cool cycle is that the axle tubing is roughly 5"-6" square. That's a lot of heat! Plus, the axle is actually 2 pieces. The outside is a piece of square tubing. Inside that is the "socket" that the stub shaft is in. The two are joined by welding on the end. (Plus the 2 bolts that hold everything together.) So that ever so slight gap between the 2 is going to make it hard to heat the insert, isn't it?

Andrew

Yes, the extra joint will make heat transfer difficult. Not much in the way of options. Going to take hydraulic puller force to pull that stub.

The problem is what to anchor to on the stub shaft?

Since the threads on the shaft are questionable, I don't think the nut is going to hold. As it was, we stuck a grade8 3/8" bolt through the cross hole and could see it being bent under stress. The bend wasn't permanent, but it tells me that the threads aren't good!

Andrew

Try a new nut, & get a thread chaser, chase the threads on the axle with it in place-sounds like you're going to destroy it getting out, might as well try to save it.