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Cat D4C with D330 Engine New Aquisition Questions

Cat D4C with D330 Engine New Aquisition Questions

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Berks18
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Hello,

I recently purchased a 1960 era machine, SN 40A1859.

I am hoping to get some insight as to what to watch out for regarding the D330 engine that is in this machine. From what I can tell, it was a very well cared for unit with low hours. I purchased it from a farmer's daughter who's father was the original owner and used it sparingly around their property to clear trees and occasionally cut in a driveway for neighbors.

So far, I've changed out all the fluids and filters on the machine and put in new radiator hoses. When the temp. is above 60 degrees F she fires right up. I do have new glow plugs to put in her, but haven't found the time to test the amperage on the old ones to see if they are still in working condition. I don't hear any "knocks" or "pings" from what I am used to with diesel motors. I am also very detailed oriented when it comes to things, so I hope this is a pretty good unit. No bubbles in the radiator, dropped 10 degrees on the coolant temp after putting in a new thermostat, flushing the engine and radiator over 7 times and running a garden hose through the radiator for about 30 mins. I then refilled with CAT ELC 50/50 red coolant. I also pulled the pipe plugs below the t-stat housing and installed a coolant filter to prevent any further water pump damage and to aide in lubricity of the coolant.

Someone might get a kick out of the original air filters being from 1976 and 1978 and were still pretty clean for the age...

The one thing I have not done was to do a valve lash, but it's next on the list.

Tracks and undercarriage are in great shape. I'm just hoping to hear from some folks familiar with a D330 engine and what maintenance above ordinary I should do to keep this unit alive. I don't plan on doing really any production work with it, mainly bought it to clear out my 1/3 of a mile drive during the 1-5 blizzards here in the Black Hills of South Dakota we get every year. Maybe a small amount of dirt work some day, but mainly to push snow.

Any advice would be great!
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 1:27 PM
d4c24a
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Check the equaliser bar bolts that go into the block , check for cracking around the area on the bottom of the block where they go in
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 8:16 PM
Rome K/G
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Reply to d4c24a:
Check the equaliser bar bolts that go into the block , check for cracking around the area on the bottom of the block where they go in
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Thats why on the D4D's they put the lift cylinders on the hard nose. Wished the 6U and 7U tractors had an engine frame and hard nose with cylinders.
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 8:22 PM
Berks18
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Reply to Rome K/G:
Thats why on the D4D's they put the lift cylinders on the hard nose. Wished the 6U and 7U tractors had an engine frame and hard nose with cylinders.


Is there any way to make a D4C a D4D by finding an ole hard nose, hydraulic cy. and blade?
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 8:32 PM
Berks18
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Reply to d4c24a:
Check the equaliser bar bolts that go into the block , check for cracking around the area on the bottom of the block where they go in
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Would it be a smart move to get a piece of the polyurethane similar to what is utilized in motor mounts and put that between the equalizer bar and block? Just thinking outside of the box in order to prevent that from occurring...
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 8:45 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to Berks18:


Would it be a smart move to get a piece of the polyurethane similar to what is utilized in motor mounts and put that between the equalizer bar and block? Just thinking outside of the box in order to prevent that from occurring...
when i bought my 7U the first thing i checked were those bolts--a couple were missing and a couple had dropped into the belly pan because the nuts had become undone.

and my D2 had the equalizer spring sitting on TOP of the horizontal hold down bolts/rollers
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 9:19 PM
juiceman
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Reply to dpendzic:
when i bought my 7U the first thing i checked were those bolts--a couple were missing and a couple had dropped into the belly pan because the nuts had become undone.

and my D2 had the equalizer spring sitting on TOP of the horizontal hold down bolts/rollers
Curious as to how many hours your new tractor has. One weak link that I’m familiar with is the water pump pulley; the “snout” is very long and I’ve heard of premature failure. If there is any wobble to it, you may want to keep an eye on it or repair it. People have had machine shops shorten them only to lose the suction effect of the cooling, whereby they had to make a new shroud. Very expensive, as parts are not readily available for the water pump. Overall, I’m very happy with my D4Cs. Enjoy your new dozer. JM
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 10:30 PM
Berks18
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Reply to juiceman:
Curious as to how many hours your new tractor has. One weak link that I’m familiar with is the water pump pulley; the “snout” is very long and I’ve heard of premature failure. If there is any wobble to it, you may want to keep an eye on it or repair it. People have had machine shops shorten them only to lose the suction effect of the cooling, whereby they had to make a new shroud. Very expensive, as parts are not readily available for the water pump. Overall, I’m very happy with my D4Cs. Enjoy your new dozer. JM


Thanks Juiceman! When I first got the unit I gave the snout a few solid tugs in several directions to make sure there was no shaft or bearing movement. I see where someone online sells them for what looks to be around $500.00, which is pretty pricey for a pump.

Is there a "weep hole" in these styles of pumps? If so where is it located? I haven't had a chance to spray off some of the old grease yet, but wanted to make sure it was "clear" from any old hard grease so I can see a failure coming.

The hour meter on mine reads 373 hours. Not really sure if it still works, as it looks to be ran off a gear, but as I play around with it a bit maybe I'll see it move to 374?
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 10:53 PM
acprimus
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Reply to Berks18:


Thanks Juiceman! When I first got the unit I gave the snout a few solid tugs in several directions to make sure there was no shaft or bearing movement. I see where someone online sells them for what looks to be around $500.00, which is pretty pricey for a pump.

Is there a "weep hole" in these styles of pumps? If so where is it located? I haven't had a chance to spray off some of the old grease yet, but wanted to make sure it was "clear" from any old hard grease so I can see a failure coming.

The hour meter on mine reads 373 hours. Not really sure if it still works, as it looks to be ran off a gear, but as I play around with it a bit maybe I'll see it move to 374?
I wouldn't bother converting the blade to nose hydraulics. I'd imagine chances of it taking off like that are low as long as you keep an eye on it. My friend has one and I find it a pushy, well-balanced machine for it's size. I actually prefer running it to his 6B. Admittedly, I don't know a whole lot about the engine itself but a quick site search would probably bring up more info. Just keep the fluids and grease in it, of course, and it'll do it's thing.
[attachment=54930]FB_IMG_1564195858380.jpg[/attachment]
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Sun, Aug 4, 2019 11:02 PM
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