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Cat 12 Grader-oil change info. Help...

Cat 12 Grader-oil change info. Help...

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Ol George
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It's time to change the oil in my Cat 12 Grader (S/N 71D43๐Ÿ˜Ž. But how, where and what kind of oil. I need help. By asking this question, my 'novice' status is certainly revealed - that's okay, the information from this forum is very valuable and all the help is appreciated.
From my manual, I figured how to change the engine crank-case oil. But why do I need to drain the 'fuel injection pump housing' when I change the crankcase oil? Can I use SAE 30 oil? Will the fuel injection pump housing just re-fill when I re-start the engine?
But here is the hard question... (for me anyway) I'm not sure how to change the transmission oil. The manual does not explain this very well. It seems that the rear-end is connected to - or part of, the transmission. But where is the fill point? Where is the drain point? and are there separate compartments that need to be drained as well? Again, what kind of oil do I use. I'm stuck on this one.
Although I'm in S. Ca. I'm at 4000 ft and the weather can get kinda cold in the winter. I guess the average temp is about 30 - 70 degrees in the winter and up to 100 in the summer.
Any assistance is appreciated.
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Sun, Jan 6, 2008 2:59 AM
D4Doug
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George,

My manual says that the crankcase provides lubrication to the injection pump housing so you don't need to handle it seperately. I have had good luck with Shell Rotella T-15-40 oil. There will probably be someone offer better ideas especially if I sugest something wrong. I operate my 71-D Blade at up to 6000 feet and temperatures from forty below zero to over a hundred degrees and have found Rotella to work as well as any other diesel rated oil I have used. Don't forget to drain the clutch housing as it gets oil from the crankcase and a small amount does not return. I have never had to change the transmision lube so I will not comment on that operation except to suggest, if it's clean, leave it alone. Also don't forget to check the chain cases for lube. It's probably a good idea to fill them a little over full as 71D's sometimes loose the oil slingers, and when that happens, drying out the bearings on the pressed-in axle is a very costly experience. Good luck.
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Sun, Jan 6, 2008 3:42 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to D4Doug:
George,

My manual says that the crankcase provides lubrication to the injection pump housing so you don't need to handle it seperately. I have had good luck with Shell Rotella T-15-40 oil. There will probably be someone offer better ideas especially if I sugest something wrong. I operate my 71-D Blade at up to 6000 feet and temperatures from forty below zero to over a hundred degrees and have found Rotella to work as well as any other diesel rated oil I have used. Don't forget to drain the clutch housing as it gets oil from the crankcase and a small amount does not return. I have never had to change the transmision lube so I will not comment on that operation except to suggest, if it's clean, leave it alone. Also don't forget to check the chain cases for lube. It's probably a good idea to fill them a little over full as 71D's sometimes loose the oil slingers, and when that happens, drying out the bearings on the pressed-in axle is a very costly experience. Good luck.
I was under the impression that all the #12 graders from 1947 up until the 12E in 1959 (99E series in the US produced ones) had the D318 engine. I have not seen a D318 with pressure lubed injection pump housing.

I recently discovered the expensive mistake of assuming a Ford engine injection pump was pressure lubed with engine oil. If the injection pump has a filler port with a slotted/hex head plug in it, drain and refill it at the same time as the engine oil (and check it regularly).
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time๐Ÿ˜„
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Sun, Jan 6, 2008 6:34 AM
D4Doug
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Reply to ccjersey:
I was under the impression that all the #12 graders from 1947 up until the 12E in 1959 (99E series in the US produced ones) had the D318 engine. I have not seen a D318 with pressure lubed injection pump housing.

I recently discovered the expensive mistake of assuming a Ford engine injection pump was pressure lubed with engine oil. If the injection pump has a filler port with a slotted/hex head plug in it, drain and refill it at the same time as the engine oil (and check it regularly).
George,

See what I mean? The great thing about this site is that someone always knows more than I do- so listen to me with caution. My 71 D does not have a filler plug on the injection pump housing, just a return pipe. I am assuming yours is similar. My D47U has the type of fuel injection housing that CCJersey mentioned so I am familiar with it. Just look below the injection pump cover and see which one you have. Also, if you have a pony motor you will need to drain and refill the pony motor clutch and pony crankcase. To drain the oil in the pony there is a pet cock on top of the engine that has to be opened - and closed when done. It's quite a mess to start the pony with the drain open.
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Sun, Jan 6, 2008 7:50 AM
Aaron
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Reply to D4Doug:
George,

See what I mean? The great thing about this site is that someone always knows more than I do- so listen to me with caution. My 71 D does not have a filler plug on the injection pump housing, just a return pipe. I am assuming yours is similar. My D47U has the type of fuel injection housing that CCJersey mentioned so I am familiar with it. Just look below the injection pump cover and see which one you have. Also, if you have a pony motor you will need to drain and refill the pony motor clutch and pony crankcase. To drain the oil in the pony there is a pet cock on top of the engine that has to be opened - and closed when done. It's quite a mess to start the pony with the drain open.
Straight 30 would be fine for it, I also do not see a fill for the injector pump housing, so my guess would be its self filling, drain the clutch housing also, the plug for it is on the starter side of the bell housing, the trans takes 14 gallons of oil, 85/140or 80/90 work in it, there is a plug on the bottom of the rear end housing this drains trans and rear, also a plug up on the front of the trans at the driveline that truns the hydrolic pump just above the parking brake drum, this one will drain aboput a gallon or so, it fills from the rear end, also there is aplu on the bottom of the case just behind the brake drum in a recesed plate, remove this pluga nd thru it you can see the pickup screen for the oil filter, make sure the screen is no clogged up, change the filter on the left side of the housing, put all plugs in and fill thru the plug that is half way up on the rear end cover, filling here will fill alll cases when the trans turns it throws oil up to the front housing.
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Sun, Jan 6, 2008 9:44 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Aaron:
Straight 30 would be fine for it, I also do not see a fill for the injector pump housing, so my guess would be its self filling, drain the clutch housing also, the plug for it is on the starter side of the bell housing, the trans takes 14 gallons of oil, 85/140or 80/90 work in it, there is a plug on the bottom of the rear end housing this drains trans and rear, also a plug up on the front of the trans at the driveline that truns the hydrolic pump just above the parking brake drum, this one will drain aboput a gallon or so, it fills from the rear end, also there is aplu on the bottom of the case just behind the brake drum in a recesed plate, remove this pluga nd thru it you can see the pickup screen for the oil filter, make sure the screen is no clogged up, change the filter on the left side of the housing, put all plugs in and fill thru the plug that is half way up on the rear end cover, filling here will fill alll cases when the trans turns it throws oil up to the front housing.
Yes, the late units with the oil clutches also have self filling fuel injection pump housings.
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Sun, Jan 6, 2008 9:54 AM
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