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Bloomin pony carbs :-(

Bloomin pony carbs :-(

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Julian
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When I first got my D4 the first task was to get the pony motor running. I'm happy enough with simple engines so after I got the mag throwing out sparks and after cleaning the carb, which included unsticking the float valve (stuck shut) it ran happily enough.

Now, after letting it stand for a month I've got the same problem with the carb, ie the float valve had stuck shut again.๐Ÿ˜ž I pressurized the pony fuel tank to 30psi in an effort to free it with no luck (though I did get an impromptu soaking in fuel) and also walloped the carb as hard as a dared with an ally drift.

Anyhow, has anyone had this before and what might be a solution - I'm not keen on taking the top off the carb every month๐Ÿ˜ž The funny thing is that all the British carbs that I've had in the past normally suffer the other way, ie piss fuel all over the show due to sunken floats or worn float valve seats!

Regards Julian.
D47J5052
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Mon, Nov 28, 2011 2:27 AM
zootownjeepguy
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When the float needle gets some wear it tends to stick in the seat. Time to replace it, or if you're cheap like me, just chuck it up in the lathe and recut the seat to clean it up. I'll make a tool to burnish & lap the brass seat and it'll be good to go. You'll need to adjust the float level slightly.

I've also had the same problem with a rubber-tipped seat. Our "new and improved" (!&#?@&$@!) gasolines with ethanol will attack the rubber tip and make it swell, thus sticking shut. Metal float needles only from now on.
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Mon, Nov 28, 2011 3:20 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to zootownjeepguy:
When the float needle gets some wear it tends to stick in the seat. Time to replace it, or if you're cheap like me, just chuck it up in the lathe and recut the seat to clean it up. I'll make a tool to burnish & lap the brass seat and it'll be good to go. You'll need to adjust the float level slightly.

I've also had the same problem with a rubber-tipped seat. Our "new and improved" (!&#?@&$@!) gasolines with ethanol will attack the rubber tip and make it swell, thus sticking shut. Metal float needles only from now on.
Have you been following the recommended procedure of shutting off the fuel and letting the pony run out until it dies?
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Mon, Nov 28, 2011 3:26 AM
Julian
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Have you been following the recommended procedure of shutting off the fuel and letting the pony run out until it dies?
I bet that's it, dam ethanol in the fuel making the tip swell - I shall investigate tomorrow later on and report back.

OM, yes I do normally let the pony stop via fuel exhaustion, but I've an idea the the tap isn't 100% good and over time allows the carb to fill again. Again, I'll be doing a bit of investigation!

Thanks.

Julian.
D47J5052
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Mon, Nov 28, 2011 3:54 AM
Julian
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Reply to Julian:
I bet that's it, dam ethanol in the fuel making the tip swell - I shall investigate tomorrow later on and report back.

OM, yes I do normally let the pony stop via fuel exhaustion, but I've an idea the the tap isn't 100% good and over time allows the carb to fill again. Again, I'll be doing a bit of investigation!

Thanks.

Julian.
Well that'll teach me to jump to conclusions - you'd think at the age of 50 I'd have learned that one๐Ÿ˜ž

The fuel starvation was caused by a blockage on the outlet side of the sediment trap on the gas tank - sorted by prodding with a piece of thin welding rod and some compressed air!

Julian.
D47J5052
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Fri, Dec 2, 2011 1:50 AM
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