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Assessing pony that doesn't run

Assessing pony that doesn't run

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Outbackrider
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I am in the process of looking at my first Cat, D-2 mid-50's model. I believe it is a 5U,
sounds like it has the extended clutch housing and curved steering clutch levers.

The owner states that the pony doesn't run, "needs mag work" I suspect it doesn't have spark.
He stated that the diesel runs and he just pulls starts the diesel with his truck.
I will need the pony to run, cause I work alone at times.
I have searched and have read pages on pony issues...sometimes, they have small issues and
sometimes they have big issues.

Sounds like it is a manual start pony. I will bring a pull rope with me to try to assess the condition.

My thoughts are to:
1. Try to slowly pull start it to see if it is stuck? Piston/Rod hitting an object etc.
2. Look inside gas tank to see if rusty, how bad?
3. Check pony oil condition/level
4. Try to see if I can check compression, with gauge.
5. Inspect through plug hole, cylinder condition?
6. Assess wiring, plug wires, mag switch
7. Look for signs of a cracked block/repair
8. Open head spigot valve, see what comes out
9. Look for oil leakage from pony
10. Grab the starter flywheel and pull, assessing for end movement or wobble


What else would you suggest I be on the look out for?
This unit will be a hobby worker.

Thanks for your input.

OR
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 1:04 AM
gemdozer
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You could turned the pony flywell if he is't freese in rust and if you have the mag you just need to removed the cap cover and turne the rear gear countercluck wise and you could see if he has some blue spack and if not you have to clean point with fine send paper and he should be oké
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 1:39 AM
Steve A
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Looks like you have thought it through

I like to check the appearance of the coolant, smell for gas in the pony oil, if the gas was left of the gas tank will drain into the ponys oil.

With the decompression cocks open you should be able to roll it over by hand to get a feel for things. Its not uncommon to have mag problems and people just give up on them because they don't understand them, I personally send them to a mag shop and then my mag problem goes away. (I am one of the ones that don't understand them)
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 1:45 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to Steve A:
Looks like you have thought it through

I like to check the appearance of the coolant, smell for gas in the pony oil, if the gas was left of the gas tank will drain into the ponys oil.

With the decompression cocks open you should be able to roll it over by hand to get a feel for things. Its not uncommon to have mag problems and people just give up on them because they don't understand them, I personally send them to a mag shop and then my mag problem goes away. (I am one of the ones that don't understand them)
If the pony bearings are bad,(excess crankshaft play) don't try to run it unless you want to throw a rod. If the pony checks out, change the oil before trying to starting. You might want to put a small amount of oil in the cylinders to help the rings seal, then change the spark plugs after blowing the excess oil out of the compression cocks. Check the oil in the pinion clutch/brake since it hasn't been used. Mag points get oxidized and loose conductivity, so have a point file handy to clean them up.
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 9:28 AM
monserandsons
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Reply to STEPHEN:
If the pony bearings are bad,(excess crankshaft play) don't try to run it unless you want to throw a rod. If the pony checks out, change the oil before trying to starting. You might want to put a small amount of oil in the cylinders to help the rings seal, then change the spark plugs after blowing the excess oil out of the compression cocks. Check the oil in the pinion clutch/brake since it hasn't been used. Mag points get oxidized and loose conductivity, so have a point file handy to clean them up.
Assessing is good, making spark is better. But don't even bother trying to start until carb is cleaned,repaired,and reinstalled. Plus you can try and get spark while you wait for all the carb parts
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 10:36 AM
caterpillar13
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Reply to monserandsons:
Assessing is good, making spark is better. But don't even bother trying to start until carb is cleaned,repaired,and reinstalled. Plus you can try and get spark while you wait for all the carb parts
maybe covert it to electric direct start
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 11:19 AM
Outbackrider
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Reply to caterpillar13:
maybe covert it to electric direct start
All great points of advice, thank you!
If anything else comes to mind, please let me know.

Just one question on the carb, what parts do you suggest,
Purchasing a rebuild kit? Anything else?

Thanks!!
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 2:41 PM
Steve A
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Reply to Outbackrider:
All great points of advice, thank you!
If anything else comes to mind, please let me know.

Just one question on the carb, what parts do you suggest,
Purchasing a rebuild kit? Anything else?

Thanks!!
Its hard to beat a carb kit, fresh gaskets are a big help, a can of carb cleaner, and a air compressor will be handy also.
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 5:50 PM
monserandsons
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Reply to Steve A:
Its hard to beat a carb kit, fresh gaskets are a big help, a can of carb cleaner, and a air compressor will be handy also.
Everything about these carbs I learned from reading old posts on here, I had two and both long jets that run through the center snapped off, I was able to get that and other items from mcdonaldcarb,despite what I said earlier I recently got a 4 cylinder continental running after many years without cleaning the carb. It still had the orange gas from way back when in it
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 7:10 PM
8C 361
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Reply to monserandsons:
Everything about these carbs I learned from reading old posts on here, I had two and both long jets that run through the center snapped off, I was able to get that and other items from mcdonaldcarb,despite what I said earlier I recently got a 4 cylinder continental running after many years without cleaning the carb. It still had the orange gas from way back when in it
I would only remove the carb as a last resort. This would be the most difficult job on the list and might delay your plans for years. Make sure the tank and lines are clean. Do not run dirty gas into it, consider a clean remote tank if there is any question. You can take the top off the carb in place and see what condition it is in and clean inside with carb cleaner and compressed air.
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 8:31 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to 8C 361:
I would only remove the carb as a last resort. This would be the most difficult job on the list and might delay your plans for years. Make sure the tank and lines are clean. Do not run dirty gas into it, consider a clean remote tank if there is any question. You can take the top off the carb in place and see what condition it is in and clean inside with carb cleaner and compressed air.


Yes--a good flow of gas to the carb is essential---so drain all the old gas out and check the flow!
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Mon, Feb 29, 2016 8:40 PM
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