955K will not start. Fuel issue cont.

Hi muzz,
See if you can get a real pressure guage reading...a new pump should be putting out the full 15psi.

Your 955 model has the rack stop that will not allow movement beyond minimum until you build oil pressure so it may appear stuck when working the throttle with engine off. To check movement you need to remove the governor end cover which contains the limit stop. With a new transfer pump air pressurizing the tank is not very effective as your depending on fuel leaking by the clearances to prime the system. Does work eventually but it is very slow. The hand priming pump should be sufficient for the task, assuming it is working properly.

hello muzz ,here is the sheet for bleeding the injector pump,bruce oz
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[img]http://img534.imageshack.us/img534/56/955kprime.th.jpg[/img]

Muzz, Follow Bruce's instructions and then crack all line nuts at the pump. Pump untill clear fuel comes out and tighten nuts as eash line has clear fuel. Then crack the nuts at the injectors and do the same. This should get you going.
Later Bob

Went back out and worked on the 955. Got 2 injectors bleed but other 2 nothing. The rack is stuck. I removed the governor and injector pump. What a PAIN! Thanks to engineer that decided to put the turbo drain tube right in the way. I spent about 90 minutes getting the last bolt out and had to cut a wrench in half to get at it. The governor seems ok, nothing stuck or damaged. I can only get the rack to move about a 1/8 of inch with a little help.
Going to send it out or replace it. I want it working perfit so I dont have to ever take that SOB back off. I'm sure putting back on will be just as fun. Thanks for everyones help, looks like it just going to be more money now.
Muzz

With the right tools to remove the pumps, you can do it.
There is a 1m6952 "wrench" that fits inside the special bushing that retains each pump so you can remove it
Also a 1m6954 extractor that screws on the top of each pump to pull it out of the pump housing and put it back in
1m6953 is a special bushing that is used with a depth mic to set the rack in the center of it's travel. The book I have shows that this is the same as setting the end of the rack .1563" protruding from the end of the housing opposite the governor after removing a small cover there.
The main thing about the pumps is getting them installed in time with the rack and checking the rack travel once you get them all in and torqued to 100-110 foot-pounds. It won't move far enough if one of the pump plungers is not timed to the rack. If you get it installed and start the engine with a pump out of time, you get lots of black smoke and some interesting sounds😆

I have a serviceman's reference book on the D330 industrial engine that shows all about how to remove and replace the pumps etc. It's not real complicated, so I would say any pump shop could handle the job of getting it unstuck if they had the tool to remove the pumps and replace them. If some of the pumps are bad, then I'm assuming they would have to be replaced with parts from CAT or aftermarket.

Adjusting the lifters in the pump housing to spec is actually better done with the housing installed on the engine. That way you can take out the effect of any wear in the gears that drive the pump cam shaft. When it's done off the engine, a degree wheel is used to set it and when it's installed on the engine, any wear will retard the injection timing to some degree from the intended point.

You've already got the thing off the engine too. Pretty easy to send it somewhere.