933f track loader issues

replace your blown hose and then put some pressure on the radiator with a hand pump or air compressor somehow and find your leak for sure. If your tractor is running hot without a thermostat, first thing to check is the radiator. It's very easy for one that old to be plugged up either on the outside so air cannot get through it or internally so the coolant cannot flow through enough of it to exchange heat.

One thing you might want to check if you find the radiator is fouled internally, you may be able to take the top tank off of the radiator with it sitting in the machine. Not familiar with the 933f frame to say if that is easy or even possible or if the radiator has the cast iron tanks that unbolt. Just something to consider, I've had good luck with a couple I've done. http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?17111-D6-9U-running-HOT-and-radiator-cleaning

Another thing to check is if the radiator fan is installed the correct way around. Sometimes someone will flip a fan around trying to change the direction it blows and end up making it into a loud but ineffective fan that attempts to blow the same direction. A fan blade should discharge air to the side of the blade that is concave, not the side that is convex.

There is no NORMAL gasket line or other joint that leaks coolant near the exhaust manifold. Only thing there is the head gasket line below it. You may have coolant excaping somewhere up top and running down to the exhaust, but the usual suspects (the precombustion chamber seals) are over on the left side of the engine on the opposite side of the valve cover from where you're seeing the leak.

One thing I ran into on the 9U I was posting about is the "freeze plugs" which seal casting sand removal holes along the top surface of the head. I was almost certain the head gasket was blown or cylinder liner seals leaking, but found the soft plugs were all rusted out and one was spraying coolant under the valve cover. On the 9U 6 cylinder engine, there are 7 of them and 2 separate valve covers which puts 3 of them outside and 4 under the valve covers. It's possible the very front and back ones on the D311 head are not under the cover and could leak coolant externally.

Not that an acid treatment won't help a fouled radiator, it will certainly help, but if the flues are plugged, there's no way for the solution to get to the scale etc. The first one I did was in a grader we brought back from the dead after it had been sitting out in the weather with the engine disassembled for several years. When we started to use if for the first time, it quickly overheated. I used a quart of muriatic acid in the 10-15 gallon cooling system and ran it until it got hot and circulated for a few hours. Still was getting hot after that treatment, so we took the top tank off and rodded out the flues of the core as I described on the 9U.

There was just too much rust and scale in there for the stuff to make much difference. Flues were plugged tight in many cases and not flowing much through most of the rest. I think the acid treatment softened up the scale and made it easier to move, so well worth the cost and time to do it even if it doesn't fix your problem. We ended up opening up over 80% of the flues without doing any damage, so we quit at that point and reassembled the radiator. Grader has performed well ever since.

CC,
The 933F 42A1750 uses the D311H and the pre-com chambers are next to the exhaust manifold.

CC,
The 933F 42A1750 uses the D311H and the pre-com chambers are next to the exhaust manifold.

[quote="Old Magnet"]CC,
The 933F 42A1750 uses the D311H and the pre-com chambers are next to the exhaust manifold.[/quote]

You're right, missed the swap from the old D311/D315/D318 with the injection pump on the left side of the engine. I have a 922B book which is with the D320 which is a turbocharged version of that D311H I believe.

Puts a 2H3088 o-ring around the top of each PC chamber right next to the site of the leak!.

If your leak is around those PC chambers, the whole chamber must be screwed out of the head to replace the seals. Top seal is an o-ring 2H3088 and then there is a soft copper or steel washer underneath the chamber where it screws into the top of the combustion chamber. Different thicknesses available to get the glow plugs to line up properly. 9H5897 is 0.104" thick and 8M3106 is 0.146" thick. I believe Eddie posted the procedure a few days ago. http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?20598-318D-Head-Precombustion-chamber-seals

[img]http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?20598-318D-Head-Precombustion-chamber-seals[/img]

If you leave thermostat out on most Cat engines, and the 933F is one of them. it is guaranteed to overheat, the 'stat opens the top hose to the radiator, but also closes the by-pass line, with no stat. much of the water by-passes the radiator. The first item to fail on these smaller engines when they get too hot is the O ring seals on number 2and 3 combustion chamber.

wow if that's all it is, its a miracle i never would have figured injector glow plug washer
and you know i was looking at the injectors when i seen some water but i figured it was from
me spilling water as i filled the radiator

any chance on getting a part number for the thermostat? anyone have old manuals
i live in north Georgia i think there's a cat dealer in Dalton
unless i can get these parts anywhere else?

i haven't had much real time working on diesel engines so finding parts even with part numbers should test my google fu
wow this a relief
you guys are awesome
thanks all

1962 traxcavator sn#42A1750 933f d311h