Worked on a 112 two weeks ago....vice grips and a little patience got the bleeder broke loose. They were standard 3/8-24 thread. Local napa had some on the shelf
X2....most brake hardware on old CAT stuff is standard parts from Wagner, Bendix etc.
I pulled one hub and pressed two back on on the one I had as it came with a hub loose and wallowing around on the spindle. So after replacing all that I had to pull another one to replace a brake lining I could hear scrubbing around inside there. I made a fixture that was basically a loop of flat iron welded to a nut that would screw on the spindle. Put a chunk of drawbar (about 1.5 x 3 heat treated?? steel) through the loop and set a 20 Ton hydraulic jack under the bar on each side pushing on the hub. Actually the base of the jacks were sitting on the face of the hub and the pistons pushed against the drawbar. Just had to orient them so the pumps were toward the bottom and had some help getting everything tightened up. Of course there were no gauges but I pumped them both up tight and rapped on the hub with a sledge to make sure.
I think the spec was 30-40 tons but I haven't looked it up in a long time. I didn't have a hollow piston ram for the porta-power at the time and I already had two matching 20 ton jacks so I bought the nut and went from there.
When you pull one I don't recommend you leave the cap nut on since I think it will be impossible to use a puller then. Do stand aside so you don't get hit when it pops loose. The one I did with a big H puller wouldn't pop loose until I smacked the head of the screw with a sledge. I borrowed it and it had about a 1" fine thread screw on it. I think the holes in the hub are 5/8 coarse and I used regular grade 5 all-thread rod.
very interesting and timely for me. I was just getting up the nerve to replace the brake hoses. I got one of those little things that pumps fluid into the bleeder screws. haven't tried it yet.