1952 caterpillar D2 5U wet clutch, unable to get in gear when running

eisenhart

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Hi, I recently became an ACMOC member. I live in western North Carolina. I recently bought a 1952 D2 dozer! This is my first caterpillar crawler, so pretty much everything is new to me. I have the operation/maintenance and service books from Jensales. The parts book is on it's way. It has a toolbar blade and rear PTO. I have the pony engine and diesel engine running great, but now I'm having some troubles getting it in to any gear. I'm pushing the clutch hand lever all the way forward but it's grinding when I try to shift into a gear. I tried at low idle and shifting into 5th, still grinding pretty good. It seems the clutch brake isn't engaging? Any suggestions for what else I can tried to remedy this? I drove it a few days ago and I didn't have any trouble shifting into 1st and Reverse gears.
I have the wet clutch type. Let me know if I can answer anymore questions.

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Fri, Sep 11, 2020 6:42 AM

gemdozer

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Your brake cluch is working bad and need adjustement or the lining on the brake band is nomore good

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Fri, Sep 11, 2020 7:01 AM

edb

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Hi,
first step is to adjust both the clutch and then the clutch brake as outlined in your Grey OMI book and report back--cold oil will cause more drag and sometimes you need to let the unit run at a moderate idle for a short while so the oil can warm up a bit before trying to engage the gears.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

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Fri, Sep 11, 2020 7:05 AM

hfdzl

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Reply to edb:

Hi,
first step is to adjust both the clutch and then the clutch brake as outlined in your Grey OMI book and report back--cold oil will cause more drag and sometimes you need to let the unit run at a moderate idle for a short while so the oil can warm up a bit before trying to engage the gears.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

I just did a 7U D4 with this problem. The input shaft bearing in the flywheel had disintegrated. Locking the input to the flywheel. Could shift when the engine was stopped. Someone had removed the screen/magnet in the bottom of the flywheel housing. The pieces also jammed the oil pump and spun the pump drive shaft.off.

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Fri, Sep 11, 2020 3:28 PM

josh

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Reply to hfdzl:

I just did a 7U D4 with this problem. The input shaft bearing in the flywheel had disintegrated. Locking the input to the flywheel. Could shift when the engine was stopped. Someone had removed the screen/magnet in the bottom of the flywheel housing. The pieces also jammed the oil pump and spun the pump drive shaft.off.

A 1952 d2 did not have an oil clutch, post the serial number so we can determine the year and what clutch it has.

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Fri, Sep 11, 2020 8:55 PM

greengiant

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Your brake cluch is working bad and need adjustement or the lining on the brake band is nomore good

Hi Gendozer!
I just got my D2 5J back to life using a carb I got from you some time ago. Went from not running at all to starting on 1st or 2nd pull. nothing quite like a clean carb to brighten one's outlook!
Greengiant

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Sun, Sep 13, 2020 3:59 AM

eisenhart

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Reply to greengiant:

Hi Gendozer!
I just got my D2 5J back to life using a carb I got from you some time ago. Went from not running at all to starting on 1st or 2nd pull. nothing quite like a clean carb to brighten one's outlook!
Greengiant

Ok, thanks for all these replies! Here's my serial number 5U9306. Turns out, I don't have a wet clutch!
I have the earlier d2 model which doesn't have the large access plate, so I needed to pull the engine in order to gain access to the dry clutch components.

It was seriously dirty inside the bell housing, sludge covering everything. I will post some pictures.

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Mon, Nov 9, 2020 9:16 PM

eisenhart

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[attachment=60990]IMG_0418.JPG[/attachment]
Work zone

[attachment=60991]IMG_0493.JPG[/attachment]
Diesel engine pulled

[attachment=60992]IMG_0474.JPG[/attachment]
sludge filled Transmission Bellhousing, dry clutch assembly is removed.

[attachment=60993]IMG_0475.JPG[/attachment]
dry clutch assembly, sludge covered and missing linkage parts.

[attachment=60994]IMG_0483.JPG[/attachment]
broken metal pieces from clutch assembly and starting engine pinion found in the bottom of the bellhousing

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Mon, Nov 9, 2020 9:29 PM

eisenhart

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[attachment=60995]IMG_0488.JPG[/attachment]
Bellhousing cleaned up

[attachment=60996]IMG_0500 (1).JPG[/attachment]
Flywheel cleaned up

[attachment=60997]IMG_0526 (1).JPG[/attachment]
flywheel removed and area behind cleaned up

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Mon, Nov 9, 2020 9:42 PM

eisenhart

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Here is my to do list, so far, can anyone provide the pilot bearing part number and how I can seal the leak on my rear crankshaft?

1. make new clutch assembly links from metal stock 3/16" x 3/4", part number 7B5701 for reference.
2. replace transmission input shaft seal, part number 3j-0378
3. resurface front and back pressure plate surfaces
4. replace pilot bearing roller, need part number
5. pilot bearing seal, part number 1B1069
6. Clean out flywheel grease channel for pilot bearing
7. Investigate rear main seal leaking? Engine D311
8. Machine a bronze bushing for clutch shaft 4B3810

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Mon, Nov 9, 2020 10:03 PM

Old Magnet

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Reply to eisenhart:

Here is my to do list, so far, can anyone provide the pilot bearing part number and how I can seal the leak on my rear crankshaft?

1. make new clutch assembly links from metal stock 3/16" x 3/4", part number 7B5701 for reference.
2. replace transmission input shaft seal, part number 3j-0378
3. resurface front and back pressure plate surfaces
4. replace pilot bearing roller, need part number
5. pilot bearing seal, part number 1B1069
6. Clean out flywheel grease channel for pilot bearing
7. Investigate rear main seal leaking? Engine D311
8. Machine a bronze bushing for clutch shaft 4B3810

Pilot bearing consists of 1B3740 race and 1B3739 roller assembly.
Not much you can do about real main bearing leakage. There is no seal, just a helical grove that is supposed to return any oil that gets past the bearing to the sump. Excessive bearing clearance and clogged return grove makes things worse.

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Mon, Nov 9, 2020 11:10 PM

1952 caterpillar D2 5U wet clutch, unable to get in gear when running

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