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Zenith K5A Carb Question

Zenith K5A Carb Question

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SteveSinka
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Currently rebuilding the Zenith K5A on my 1940 R2 and wanted to get some input on a potential problem. During disassembly I noticed a lot of slop in the throttle plate shaft to bushing fit. The bushings for the throttle plate shaft are pressed in from the outside into counterbores, one on each side. The bushings wore down until the shaft was riding on the steel housing, then the shaft wore down. There's about 0.035" slop between the throttle plate shaft and the bushings, and I see this as a potential place for air to get sucked into the carb. There's part of me that wants to press in new bushings and make a new shaft. Does anyone think that this much slop is a problem, or am I worrying too much? Any feedback would be appreciated.

Thanks,

Steve
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Tue, Mar 6, 2012 1:14 AM
Jack
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A vacuum leak is a bad thing--makes for hard starting, lean mixture at idle, hard to adjust right for any speed. A thinned out mixture tends to burn hot, so you run some danger of burned valves and general overheating.

This is a repair that I do every now and then. It helps a lot if you can find a new throttle shaft. They are hard to make. I am not familiar with the R2 carb specifically, but I've done this on several Scheblers. I set the carb up in the milling machine and bore the iron "back" bearing to line up with the bushing bore of the "front" bearing. If front and back are both bushed, you have it easy, don't need to bore. Then I make new brass bushings and knurl them so they fit snug without danger of splitting the carburetor.

I don't see why it wouldn't work on the Zenith if it is a cast iron or brass carburetor.
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Tue, Mar 6, 2012 9:52 AM
sr4440
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Reply to Jack:
A vacuum leak is a bad thing--makes for hard starting, lean mixture at idle, hard to adjust right for any speed. A thinned out mixture tends to burn hot, so you run some danger of burned valves and general overheating.

This is a repair that I do every now and then. It helps a lot if you can find a new throttle shaft. They are hard to make. I am not familiar with the R2 carb specifically, but I've done this on several Scheblers. I set the carb up in the milling machine and bore the iron "back" bearing to line up with the bushing bore of the "front" bearing. If front and back are both bushed, you have it easy, don't need to bore. Then I make new brass bushings and knurl them so they fit snug without danger of splitting the carburetor.

I don't see why it wouldn't work on the Zenith if it is a cast iron or brass carburetor.
Hi Steve,
I had a K5A rebuilt by a local guy here for my 22 and also a couple of pony carbs for D-2's.
He always rebuses the shafts and makes his own bushings. All of them run well.
I can get his phone number for you if you'd like to consult with him.

Scott
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Tue, Mar 6, 2012 7:05 PM
SteveSinka
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Reply to sr4440:
Hi Steve,
I had a K5A rebuilt by a local guy here for my 22 and also a couple of pony carbs for D-2's.
He always rebuses the shafts and makes his own bushings. All of them run well.
I can get his phone number for you if you'd like to consult with him.

Scott
Jack, Scott,

Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to pull out the old bushings and turn some new bushings.

Steve
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Sat, Mar 10, 2012 1:26 AM
D6c10K
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Reply to SteveSinka:
Jack, Scott,

Thanks for the feedback, I'm going to pull out the old bushings and turn some new bushings.

Steve
I'd bush the body as suggested...if the shaft is worn quite a bit I might try brasing it up and turning it back to size. If it's got a brass shaft I might try some higher alloy solder...I'd think it would last quite a while. Nothing to lose if it's worn to much to use as is.
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Sat, Mar 10, 2012 8:07 AM
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