Workin on the 7U

Paul - Both diesel and kerosene are solvents, but kerosene is the product recommended by Cat for washing compartments. Yes, the rollers with a threaded plug in the end, with a 3/8 square hole, are lubed-for-life rollers. They take engine oil .. and the oil level should be level with the threads, when the plug is removed, with the tractor on a level surface.
You might try adjusting the valve clearances to see if the "leaky valve" clears up. It's surprising how a valve lash adjustment can often improve performance. Not many people do regular 1000 hr valve lash adjustments as recommended, but the clearances do alter with wear.

Thanks OzDozer, I'll look at the valve lash.

Had a break in the rain today, so got the track tensioned properly . One side looks good now. The adjuster works easily now, I was able to work it using only hand effort on the wrenches. Took the screen off the radiator and cleaned out the 1/2 inch of caked dirt and mud that filled the bottom half of the radiator.

And, since the rain was still holding off, I started work on the other side. Had to cut off some crap that had been welded in as a dirt shield over the recoil spring and track adjuster. That's when I got another surprise. There must have been a problem with the adjuster at one point because there is now a solid piece of angle welded on to the recoil spring plate bearing against the idler yoke. I can't really see under there, but it feels like there's a bad weld between the adjuster nut and the screw - maybe it broke at one time? There's also another 3/4 bolt welded onto the recoil plate with a tube and nut arrangement. Looks like that was used to push the idler back until they could pound in the piece of angle and get that welded in. Ech.

On the bright side, it will be easy to get off, I'll just have to cut all that crap out of there. I'm going to need a replacement adjuster nut and screw though, but it looks like the idler yoke is salvageable. After that's fixed, I'll be able to look at the rollers. That'll take another week.

Dang. After looking at the parts book, looks like the recoil spring bolts will need replacing (both sides, on the side I worked on, it was coming out of the recoil spring when it was loose - I thought it was just a pilot in there). Is there any tension on the guides if the bolt is broken? The service book says to split the track, but I can't see the reason if the track is loose. On the one side, I'm thinking I can compress the spring a bit to unload the idler, cut the mess out and then let out the spring. As long as there's no tension on the spring, it should be safe to come out with the track on. Anyone done anything like this?

hello paul! on my d4 somebody did the same thing to my track tensioners!
angle iron the whole bit, must have been a quick fixx. i checked on the tensioners from CAT but wow they are exspensive, i bought the nuts and am going to have machinest make the tensioner rods. and i was also wondering about sneeking the springs out without splitting the tracks. that master pin is a tough one to get out!
also my machine is huffing like it had leaking exhuast valve, and did not run smooth, i put new injectors in it, and it was better but not right yet, i noticed i had compression in the cooling system.
from there wiht the help of this site i found #2 pre-combustion chamber steel sealing ring rusted and gone! believe it or not no coolant in the oil!
the other symptom was huffing a mix of white and blue smoke. when i examined the chamber i could see a black ring around the chamber just above the sealing surface where compression was leaking by. my machine had sat for several years as well. adjusting the valves as stated by another member is always a good idea. good luck keep me posted on the track tensioner dilema, if you get them out with out splitting the tracks.

Did you guys try after market for the track adjusters. Regal used to have them and they were pretty cheap....I stocked up😊 😊

I'm going to start calling tomorrow to find parts. Guess I'll try Regal first.

wibbdog, I think our Cats are twins, or least from the same litter. I also have a little coolant leak, but I haven't found it yet. There's no bubbles in the coolant when it's running, there's no coolant in the oil, or the trans, but it drops when the tractor sits. And I don't see anything leaking anywhere. Maybe something will show up now that I've powerwashed all the crud and dirt off.

Nobody wants to talk about recoil springs. Can't say I blame em, I hate working around springs. Too many ways to get hurt or killed. Anyway, I thought of a way to safely check if there's any tension on the guide rods, so I'll see if the weather cooperates tomorrow

Try a "search" of the archives (if they work). The spring topic has been talked to death....really nothing more to say.

Yeah, I tried that first. 'recoil spring' only brings up 19 hits, including this thread.