Wife's D6 9U rt brake peddle shaft & brass bushings

ttman4

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Couple problems & questions??? I'll post here & couple other boards.

I'm running into heck trying to pull the right brake peddle shaft out to clean up/buff out or replace the 2 brass bushings that the shaft rides in. Bought 2 new bushings other day part #1F-1310 @ $25 ea.
My right foot brake peddle has been sticking & dragging. I have to keep pulling the peddle back with my foot each time, even after I added another spring & bunggie cord.
Finally decided the shaft is binding in the brass bushings going thru the brake drum housing.
Left foot brake peddle works great, but it gets old always going in a lefthand circle trying to get back "over yonder!" 😕
My problem....I haven't figured first yet how to get the linkage lever off the shaft that's outside the brake housing but next to the Transmission housing & bolt & nut that Cat put right in my way! Lever comes loose & slides, but not enough room to come completely off the shaft that also has a key....a key that's gonna be hard to move.
The inside the brake housing lever that's on the shaft I assume is keyed also.??
Only way so far I see to fight this issue is to get the "freeze plug" thing out from the right outside housing, get the inside linkage lever loose, then maybe drive the shaft toward the transmission enough to get the shaft key loose or started, then try to drive/pry the shaft back toward the outside....then on out.
I'm open to any & all ideas.

Another question....the brake compartments have been relatively clean & dry before....or so I thought. Both Brake bands still have good brakes. Couple weeks ago I pressure washed everything big time! I pulled the inspection plates to start fixin this brake peddle problem. The right compartment was about 1/3 full of water....the weep plugs were plugged on both compartments. I got to make new inspection plate gaskets....that's how the water got in.

Anyway, I cleaned & blew all the crud, dirt, & some accumulated oil out of both compartments. Finally blew & flushed some diesel into both compartments, then flushed everything out with gas. I know I probably got oily crap on the brake bands now. Wonder if I gonna have brake band problems now?

'ya know, I bought this thing last year for the wifey for our anniversary...maybe I can get her to fix this stuff.....??? However, she won't even drive that forklift I got her for her birthday a few year ago, or the welders, or her tools, or her new/old excavator...... 😄

~and this too shall pass~
D6 9U6914SP, #46Hyd 1W523, 6A dozer #16C5869
R945B Liebherr Ex. (part owner)

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Old Magnet

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Aaaahh, I see the problem.......need a new wife😉 😉

I'm following along pretty good until you get to the inside lever. The only inside lever is at the back of the bevel gear case. The brake linkage goes from the pedal to the outside lever (pivot point) then through a hole in the front of the bevel gear case and back to the brake band lever.
Yes, the lever is keyed and it's appears to be a bitch to get off. I've got one that I'm parting out so I will have a look see before I put out any bad scoop. Specifically I'll check to see if there appears to be enough room to pry the lever off the shaft without running into the transmission. If not then it's out with the case plug and somehow you have to remove the key/lever before driving it through the bushing.

On those cover plates, I generally shit can those tin wonders and make replacements from 1/4 in plate with good gasket material, not that coarse grain cork crap that Cat is currently supplying.

Brake bands are pretty forgiving of a little contamination as long as the continuous source is removed. Wouldn't hurt to spray some brake cleaner in there as best as you can.

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Old Magnet

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Reply to Old Magnet:

Aaaahh, I see the problem.......need a new wife😉 😉

I'm following along pretty good until you get to the inside lever. The only inside lever is at the back of the bevel gear case. The brake linkage goes from the pedal to the outside lever (pivot point) then through a hole in the front of the bevel gear case and back to the brake band lever.
Yes, the lever is keyed and it's appears to be a bitch to get off. I've got one that I'm parting out so I will have a look see before I put out any bad scoop. Specifically I'll check to see if there appears to be enough room to pry the lever off the shaft without running into the transmission. If not then it's out with the case plug and somehow you have to remove the key/lever before driving it through the bushing.

On those cover plates, I generally shit can those tin wonders and make replacements from 1/4 in plate with good gasket material, not that coarse grain cork crap that Cat is currently supplying.

Brake bands are pretty forgiving of a little contamination as long as the continuous source is removed. Wouldn't hurt to spray some brake cleaner in there as best as you can.

Well, I went and had a look...good thing to. Your right, there is an inside lever so the linkage path is from pedal to lever to shaft to inside lever then rear lever. Should have remembered as I can see where I torched the linkage rod off at the inside lever (all frozen)😮 😮
As far as lever removal, plenty off room on left side, none on right side where you are right up against the transmission mounting flange. Work fine if transmission was out🙄 🙄
About all I can think of is check to see what the bushing wall thickness is (due for replacement anyway) and drive the shaft out with the woodruff key in it (destroys bushing but hopefully not touching the case bore) enough to get the lever off then drive the shaft back in to remove the key then back out again to remove completely. There is plenty of travel room for the inside lever while removing the outside one. A spacer of some sort will be required to separate the inside lever from it's key.

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Old Magnet

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Reply to Old Magnet:

Well, I went and had a look...good thing to. Your right, there is an inside lever so the linkage path is from pedal to lever to shaft to inside lever then rear lever. Should have remembered as I can see where I torched the linkage rod off at the inside lever (all frozen)😮 😮
As far as lever removal, plenty off room on left side, none on right side where you are right up against the transmission mounting flange. Work fine if transmission was out🙄 🙄
About all I can think of is check to see what the bushing wall thickness is (due for replacement anyway) and drive the shaft out with the woodruff key in it (destroys bushing but hopefully not touching the case bore) enough to get the lever off then drive the shaft back in to remove the key then back out again to remove completely. There is plenty of travel room for the inside lever while removing the outside one. A spacer of some sort will be required to separate the inside lever from it's key.

Some pictures of the levers...........and jacking her up for dismantle:

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ttman4

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Reply to Old Magnet:

Well, I went and had a look...good thing to. Your right, there is an inside lever so the linkage path is from pedal to lever to shaft to inside lever then rear lever. Should have remembered as I can see where I torched the linkage rod off at the inside lever (all frozen)😮 😮
As far as lever removal, plenty off room on left side, none on right side where you are right up against the transmission mounting flange. Work fine if transmission was out🙄 🙄
About all I can think of is check to see what the bushing wall thickness is (due for replacement anyway) and drive the shaft out with the woodruff key in it (destroys bushing but hopefully not touching the case bore) enough to get the lever off then drive the shaft back in to remove the key then back out again to remove completely. There is plenty of travel room for the inside lever while removing the outside one. A spacer of some sort will be required to separate the inside lever from it's key.

I'm headed back to the shop to give'er another try, but I think you're right about the procedures, or some variation of them all.
Only solution I see after thinking & dreaming all night is to somehow fix her right, or tie the right brake peddle back & drive in little lefthand circles all the time....kinda like a buzzard.😎
According to my handy-dandy Ebay 80 page Instruction book I guess this compartment is called the "Steering Clutch" compartment.
(incidentally, I saw a book just like mine on Ebay a few weeks ago go for $96plus frt. Item number: 180077094925 hummm....)

I like your idea of new 1/4" plate inspection covers, may just do that! Paint'em yellow & Cat'd never know, would they?

BTW, don't get rid of all your "parting out" pieces just yet, I may need'em if I throw a big hissy fit today and beat hell out'ta everything with my sledge!😮 😮
We'll know tonight, or maybe by Monday after I cool down!

As far as "Aaaahh, I see the problem.......need a new wife" I thought on that one once.....for about 34seconds. Had this'n about 35 years, 34legal like come March 23rd. I have to "stay & face the music"....I'm used to her hollarin tones. They always start off in "C" & end in "A"......

~and this too shall pass~
D6 9U6914SP, #46Hyd 1W523, 6A dozer #16C5869
R945B Liebherr Ex. (part owner)

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ttman4

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Reply to Old Magnet:

Some pictures of the levers...........and jacking her up for dismantle:

Yeah, pic's worth a thousand words. I gotta learn how to get my digital pics posted....kids know how. Me & the wife still have trouble with elect garage door openers & TV Remotes....
The 1st pic is of left side, right? 2nd & 3rd is rt side looks like.

Boy! You sure have some pretty green grass.....

~and this too shall pass~
D6 9U6914SP, #46Hyd 1W523, 6A dozer #16C5869
R945B Liebherr Ex. (part owner)

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Old Magnet

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Reply to ttman4:

Yeah, pic's worth a thousand words. I gotta learn how to get my digital pics posted....kids know how. Me & the wife still have trouble with elect garage door openers & TV Remotes....
The 1st pic is of left side, right? 2nd & 3rd is rt side looks like.

Boy! You sure have some pretty green grass.....

Yah, I know the drill😊 Had the same warden for 40 years this year and some before that.
Roomy side is the left side, naturally
None of these parts are going anywhere fast, just sorting out what's salvageable and what ain't.
Didn't even notice the grass but we finally got some rain. Still less than 1/2 of normal. Man, is it beautiful out here today, back to shirtsleeves again.

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King of Obsolete

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Reply to Old Magnet:

Some pictures of the levers...........and jacking her up for dismantle:

WOW old magnet, that sure is a rusty cat. is it the salt air down there?????

thansk

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Old Magnet

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Reply to King of Obsolete:

WOW old magnet, that sure is a rusty cat. is it the salt air down there?????

thansk

Hi KoO,
More like salt water than salt air. This one spent time parked near/in at high tide slough plus left open with the rear case internals exposed. Normal weather exposure here is not bad but not as dry as inland.
This is the same Cat Tractor Don and I drug in from that barnyard we showed pictures of awhile back. Amazingly the rolling undercarriage is very good but any of the mild steel is really rotted. The fact that it was home to a rather large rat colony didn't help the internals either LOL.
Still enough iron to attract the Old Magnet though😄 😄 even if he is nuts.

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OzDozer

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Reply to King of Obsolete:

WOW old magnet, that sure is a rusty cat. is it the salt air down there?????

thansk

Gotta give OM kudos for the fanciest-lookin', most professionally-engineered-lookin' support stands I've seen in a long long time. They sure do look extremely stable.

One of the problems we have here in West Oz nowadays, with the combined over-the-top attitude of safety authorities, coupled with insurance lawyers .. is that you cannot use a support stand in a workshop with employees, that is not professionally design-engineered, and plated accordingly.

This to me, is stupidity, and taking things to extremes .. as there are many competent home-built support stands in existence, that would have no problems meeting safety requirements.
I think the biggest factor regarding support stands, is the attitude and care of the person using them.

My former head mechanic went working for the company that purchased our family business .. and last year, he had a welder rebuilding a big loader bucket in the shop.
The welder had put the bucket up on these 'professionally engineered' support stands .. but neglected to take care as to the positioning of the bucket on the stands.
The bucket fell off the support stands, as he was welding on it, crushing and killing him instantly. It wasn't the engineering in the support stands that was the cause of the fatality .. it was a lack of danger understanding by, and training of, the welder who set them up.

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Old Magnet

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Reply to OzDozer:

Gotta give OM kudos for the fanciest-lookin', most professionally-engineered-lookin' support stands I've seen in a long long time. They sure do look extremely stable.

One of the problems we have here in West Oz nowadays, with the combined over-the-top attitude of safety authorities, coupled with insurance lawyers .. is that you cannot use a support stand in a workshop with employees, that is not professionally design-engineered, and plated accordingly.

This to me, is stupidity, and taking things to extremes .. as there are many competent home-built support stands in existence, that would have no problems meeting safety requirements.
I think the biggest factor regarding support stands, is the attitude and care of the person using them.

My former head mechanic went working for the company that purchased our family business .. and last year, he had a welder rebuilding a big loader bucket in the shop.
The welder had put the bucket up on these 'professionally engineered' support stands .. but neglected to take care as to the positioning of the bucket on the stands.
The bucket fell off the support stands, as he was welding on it, crushing and killing him instantly. It wasn't the engineering in the support stands that was the cause of the fatality .. it was a lack of danger understanding by, and training of, the welder who set them up.

Hi Oz Dozer,
Thanks for the recognition and strokes😊 😊
Your right about the judgment of the operator. Takes some thinking on how to elevate something like this. There is no flexibility to the tractor frame so if you don't have a procedure thought out it's easy to find yourself with the whole load on one corner and the jack. A formula for disaster. In this particular case it was jack up the rear (note bolts going through drawbar into end caps of the stands)(these are undersized to the drawbar holes so there is flexibility) then jack up both sides at the front simultaneously (alternate working of the jacks)
I expect to be working under the tractor so for me it has to be sturdy. I've made it to far to lose it at this point LOL.
For those thinking of building some thats 3 in. sched 40 pipe inside 3-1/2 in sched 40, some 1/4 wall 2 x 4 sq. tube and a couple of 21 in. dia. used plow discs. The pins are 1 in. 3-pt hitch items. Note the front attachments also pick up the bolt hole location on the bottom of the track frame.
The rear adjustment tubes are capped at both ends, one end drilled with welded backup nut for 1-1/4 (for the 1-1/2 drawbar hole in the D6) the other end for 3/4 in to fit the 1 in. D4 drawbar hole. This will also allow mounting of different brackets and attachments. Don't forget the jack retainer ring under the square tube. Have fun, work safe.

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Wife's D6 9U rt brake peddle shaft & brass bushings

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