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Which gasket goo

Which gasket goo

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wimmera farmer
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Hi All
Have a No 44 hydraulic unit to reseal. Opened it to see what it was like after draining a lot of water out before any oil came along.Very pleased no rust at all. Filter was a mess but all good to go back together. Even got a new gasket from dealer in stock. The filter is the same as the cord diesel fuel filter element and only one; can't be full flow.
Question is what is the best gasket goo? The old gasket was stuck tight by every bolt but not much pressure between. Really don't want this to weep. Thinking silicon on both sides of the gasket.
Cheers WF
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Tue, Dec 16, 2014 1:45 PM
mrsmackpaul
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mate if I was using a gasket then just that aviation gasket goo is what I would use I wont use silicone any more I have had to many problems with it getting forced out and then it wont break down like gasket goo and blend in with oil it just breaks off and floats around and blocks stuff

Paul
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Tue, Dec 16, 2014 5:05 PM
OzDozer
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Reply to mrsmackpaul:
mate if I was using a gasket then just that aviation gasket goo is what I would use I wont use silicone any more I have had to many problems with it getting forced out and then it wont break down like gasket goo and blend in with oil it just breaks off and floats around and blocks stuff

Paul
My vote is for the non-hardening aviation cement. Silicone has to be used very carefully and very sparingly.
A bloke here had three pistons seize in his 3406 in a row, and couldn't find the problem - until they checked the piston oil spray jet and found it blocked with a wad of loose silicone from surplus silicone that had squeezed out of a gasket join.
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Tue, Dec 16, 2014 5:57 PM
Newbie
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Reply to OzDozer:
My vote is for the non-hardening aviation cement. Silicone has to be used very carefully and very sparingly.
A bloke here had three pistons seize in his 3406 in a row, and couldn't find the problem - until they checked the piston oil spray jet and found it blocked with a wad of loose silicone from surplus silicone that had squeezed out of a gasket join.
I'm with everyone else here. 😊 (Makes a nice change doesn't it. 😊 )
The non hardening aviation gasket goo is the way to go. My personal preference is for the Permatex No3. I have been using it since I was a first year apprentice, and I have bottles of the stuff around here, everywhere. I don't know many good tradesmen that don't use it. Hylomar is another good one, but I believe the Permatex is better. Professionally, I stipulate it quite regularly.


Cheers,

Phill.
1937 RD4 - 4G7191
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Tue, Dec 16, 2014 7:01 PM
ronm
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Reply to Newbie:
I'm with everyone else here. 😊 (Makes a nice change doesn't it. 😊 )
The non hardening aviation gasket goo is the way to go. My personal preference is for the Permatex No3. I have been using it since I was a first year apprentice, and I have bottles of the stuff around here, everywhere. I don't know many good tradesmen that don't use it. Hylomar is another good one, but I believe the Permatex is better. Professionally, I stipulate it quite regularly.


Cheers,

Phill.
Do not use silicon in hydraulics. rubbery gobs will end up in the worst possible places, like relief valves, check valves, etc...
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Tue, Dec 16, 2014 8:46 PM
ccjersey
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I have started to use anaerobic cure sealants on machined surfaces used without gaskets. They must be clean and dry, but the stuff is a joy to work with compared to RTV silicone. No lumps, plugged up tubes or worst the whole tube has cured after a single use and you must make a trip to town to get more!

Permatex makes one, not sure what the number is, but it is similar to what JD and CASE/IH are using in factory assemblies.

Silicone has its place, but the anaerobic cure liquids are good products when used in the correct situations. I assume that the excess which squeezes out of the joint and does not cure will be removed by the oil or other fluid that is being retained. Haven't seen any problems in powershift transmissions and hydraulic systems where I have used it to install final drives etc.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Dec 16, 2014 10:02 PM
Andrew
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Reply to ccjersey:
I have started to use anaerobic cure sealants on machined surfaces used without gaskets. They must be clean and dry, but the stuff is a joy to work with compared to RTV silicone. No lumps, plugged up tubes or worst the whole tube has cured after a single use and you must make a trip to town to get more!

Permatex makes one, not sure what the number is, but it is similar to what JD and CASE/IH are using in factory assemblies.

Silicone has its place, but the anaerobic cure liquids are good products when used in the correct situations. I assume that the excess which squeezes out of the joint and does not cure will be removed by the oil or other fluid that is being retained. Haven't seen any problems in powershift transmissions and hydraulic systems where I have used it to install final drives etc.
G,Day All.
Why did Cat stop making/supplying the product we called Cat red
Found that very good in the right places


Regards Andrew K...
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Wed, Dec 17, 2014 3:42 AM
Jasethediggerman
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Reply to Andrew:
G,Day All.
Why did Cat stop making/supplying the product we called Cat red
Found that very good in the right places


Regards Andrew K...
Good morning,
I maybe wrong, but I think chemtool incorpated and their division metalcote used to make a lot of sealants for Cat.

Does anyone have any experience of dealing with this company?

http://metalcote.eu/

Regards
Jason
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Wed, Dec 17, 2014 7:13 AM
Sasquatch
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Reply to Jasethediggerman:
Good morning,
I maybe wrong, but I think chemtool incorpated and their division metalcote used to make a lot of sealants for Cat.

Does anyone have any experience of dealing with this company?

http://metalcote.eu/

Regards
Jason
As long as you've still got the cover off it would pay to check the flatness of the mounting flange in the areas around the bolt holes, the way you mentioned how the old gasket was really stuck near the bolts but not so much inbetween. I would still recommend the use of sealer, but it's also a normal thing to see flanges like that distort over time. Usually all you'd need to flatten those holes back out is a straight edge, a ball-peen hammer, and a good flat chunk of steel long enough to bridge between two or three of the mounting holes, to serve as an anvil.
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Wed, Dec 17, 2014 7:40 AM
ronm
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Reply to Andrew:
G,Day All.
Why did Cat stop making/supplying the product we called Cat red
Found that very good in the right places


Regards Andrew K...
[quote="Andrew"]G,Day All.
Why did Cat stop making/supplying the product we called Cat red
Found that very good in the right places


Regards Andrew K...[/quote]
I don't know, but I wish they'd start again! probably whatever ingredient made it work has been banned by the EPA...
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Wed, Dec 17, 2014 7:59 AM
OzDozer
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Reply to ronm:
[quote="Andrew"]G,Day All.
Why did Cat stop making/supplying the product we called Cat red
Found that very good in the right places


Regards Andrew K...[/quote]
I don't know, but I wish they'd start again! probably whatever ingredient made it work has been banned by the EPA...
I was under the impression that Cat pulled out of making the product because "the market was already adequately served by numerous other suppliers of gasket cements and sealers".
In other words, they weren't selling enough to make adequate financial return on it. With a volatile product such as cement or sealer, it has to have rapid turnover, or you end up with stale product and losses accordingly.
Most of these products have a pretty short shelf life, and it annoys me the amount of these products that I buy that go "off" before I fully use them.
So .. nowadays, I keep all my gasket cements and sealants in my workshop fridge. It doesn't take long for them to thaw when you need to use them.
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Wed, Dec 17, 2014 8:19 AM
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