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Whats your thoughts?

Whats your thoughts?

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bd797
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My friend has given me his 7U with a blade that used to belong to his father. At some point around 15 years ago, it had gotten stuck in a pond. It was eventually pulled out and has been sitting ever since. I have checked the all the oils and they all look good. There is still fuel albeit 15 years old. I do not have much $$ right now and am considering exactly how to proceed. My friend does not know if it has any problems. Do you think I should replace the fuel and oil and filters before trying to start it or just try it with the existing. I would hate to put the $$ into buying fuel, filters, oil and misc parts if it turns out to have some serious mechanical issues. What say you?
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Thu, Sep 29, 2011 3:32 AM
anyoldiron
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So youve been given a machine and your short on money........................................give it to someone else.

Trying to start it as is, is to my mind bordering on criminal.

Personally i would cut the filters to check for horrors and replace along with the engine oils and fuel, if it then starts change all the other oils, if this seems like to much money, give the thing away and save the heartache. Crawlers are not cheap period, and as my old Dad would have said "Theres no such thing as a free lunch in life"
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Thu, Sep 29, 2011 4:02 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to anyoldiron:
So youve been given a machine and your short on money........................................give it to someone else.

Trying to start it as is, is to my mind bordering on criminal.

Personally i would cut the filters to check for horrors and replace along with the engine oils and fuel, if it then starts change all the other oils, if this seems like to much money, give the thing away and save the heartache. Crawlers are not cheap period, and as my old Dad would have said "Theres no such thing as a free lunch in life"
That is a real friend you have there, let's hope everything is OK with it.

I'd suggest at the very least you drain and replace the engine oil in both the main motor and pilot motor and check your oil filter on the main motor for weird deposits and then throw it away, those things are cheap and for $15 a new one is a no brainer, I'd leave the diesel that's in there if there is enough to run the tractor, though I'd open the tank drain cock and check for water sitting in there, just like I'd check the transmission and final drives for water sitting in them, I wouldn't change those oils till I knew the tractor runs OK.

Check your air cleaner for wasp nests too, I'd also pull the injectors out and put half a cup of engine oil in each cylinder before trying to roll the main motor over, once I knew the motor rolls over OK with good oil pressure, refit the injectors. Obviously check you have water in the radiator, and a good tip is to be 100% certain you can shut that motor down straight away if it takes off on it's own accord with a stuck governor, so remove the aircleaner and have a piece of wood handy you can jam over the air intake pipe.

Others will chime in with better info than me, but that's what I'd suggest in the meantime.
Good luck
Mike
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Thu, Sep 29, 2011 4:22 AM
Member2103
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Reply to anyoldiron:
So youve been given a machine and your short on money........................................give it to someone else.

Trying to start it as is, is to my mind bordering on criminal.

Personally i would cut the filters to check for horrors and replace along with the engine oils and fuel, if it then starts change all the other oils, if this seems like to much money, give the thing away and save the heartache. Crawlers are not cheap period, and as my old Dad would have said "Theres no such thing as a free lunch in life"
Probably good advice above. Nothing is cheap here. M
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Thu, Sep 29, 2011 4:23 AM
drujinin
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Reply to Member2103:
Probably good advice above. Nothing is cheap here. M
Like Mike Meyer said, "drain a little out of the bottom of the engine and gearboxes to see what exactly has water and what don't". After 15 years there will be lots of water from condensation so you need to check the fluids for sure. Everyone agrees to change the engine oil and filters. Money is money and everyone is short of it right now, but if you try to shortcut what everyone tells you, then that free tractor will turn to junk REAL FAST!
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Thu, Sep 29, 2011 7:54 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to drujinin:
Like Mike Meyer said, "drain a little out of the bottom of the engine and gearboxes to see what exactly has water and what don't". After 15 years there will be lots of water from condensation so you need to check the fluids for sure. Everyone agrees to change the engine oil and filters. Money is money and everyone is short of it right now, but if you try to shortcut what everyone tells you, then that free tractor will turn to junk REAL FAST!
"stuck in a pond and eventually pulled out"? How deep was the pond, did water get in the engine or anywhere else? Did anyone try to restart the engine after getting it out? That's why loosening drain plugs (and the fuel tank drain valve) to check for water before trying to start is very important here. One other place to check for water would be to loosen the fuel line where it goes into the transfer pump. The list isn't quite endless but I think you get the point by now.

If no more water than maybe a quart or so comes out of the engine drain, the next step would be to release compression on the engine and try to turn it by hand, if both it and the pony can be turned by hand as well then half the battle may be won.
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Thu, Sep 29, 2011 8:55 PM
bd797
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Reply to ol Grump:
"stuck in a pond and eventually pulled out"? How deep was the pond, did water get in the engine or anywhere else? Did anyone try to restart the engine after getting it out? That's why loosening drain plugs (and the fuel tank drain valve) to check for water before trying to start is very important here. One other place to check for water would be to loosen the fuel line where it goes into the transfer pump. The list isn't quite endless but I think you get the point by now.

If no more water than maybe a quart or so comes out of the engine drain, the next step would be to release compression on the engine and try to turn it by hand, if both it and the pony can be turned by hand as well then half the battle may be won.
So, I did some more investigating last night and found out from the neighbor that the tractor was buried up to the top of the tracks. From the rest of his recollection, it was there for about a month until they got it out. After that episode, the mechanic neighbor did some work to it in the way of changing out oils. I guess the tractor was running when it was parked there. That always seems to be the case with old equipment. Nonetheless, I will be changing out the oil in the pony and main before trying to start. The pony and main are free to turn by hand. The mag cover has been pulled and left to get wet. I will do all new ignition components. The spark plugs were fairly good condition, but I think I will change them anyway. I did find some gooey crud in the radiator, so I would imagine that the pony water passages are full of it also. Maybe I will pull the heads to verify. I don't want to burn up the pony. I was not advocating being cheap or trying to take shortcuts. As I suspected, You all gave the same general advice that I was expecting. It will be a bit of time before I can accommodate buying all of the parts and necessary fluids, but eventually I will get it done. In the meantime, I will be puttin out alot of elbow grease getting the mud cleaned out from the uc and the rest of the tractor.
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Fri, Sep 30, 2011 1:44 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to bd797:
So, I did some more investigating last night and found out from the neighbor that the tractor was buried up to the top of the tracks. From the rest of his recollection, it was there for about a month until they got it out. After that episode, the mechanic neighbor did some work to it in the way of changing out oils. I guess the tractor was running when it was parked there. That always seems to be the case with old equipment. Nonetheless, I will be changing out the oil in the pony and main before trying to start. The pony and main are free to turn by hand. The mag cover has been pulled and left to get wet. I will do all new ignition components. The spark plugs were fairly good condition, but I think I will change them anyway. I did find some gooey crud in the radiator, so I would imagine that the pony water passages are full of it also. Maybe I will pull the heads to verify. I don't want to burn up the pony. I was not advocating being cheap or trying to take shortcuts. As I suspected, You all gave the same general advice that I was expecting. It will be a bit of time before I can accommodate buying all of the parts and necessary fluids, but eventually I will get it done. In the meantime, I will be puttin out alot of elbow grease getting the mud cleaned out from the uc and the rest of the tractor.
Keep your repairs simple if your budget is tight like most folks here, for example pulling the pilot motor heads is a great idea to check those cooling passages, you can re-use the head gaskets with some Permatex #2 or #3, some guys here have suggested half a cup of dishwasher powder dissolved in your radiator water cleans the cooling system pretty well of old oily crud too.

Magneto problems on those pilot motors usually seem to be points or condensor related 98% of the time, so clean the points and accessible connections first before replacing everything, use Autolite spark plugs, I think the right number is #386, it must be a "non resistor" type, but test your old plugs first, you might find they are OK, make sure you have copper core spark wire too, and clean the magneto cap really well, then look for cracks or signs of burn tracks. Also check your pilot motor has a good supply of gas, and the governor linkages are free moving, those pilot motor carbies have been discussed here 87,000 times already, so check the search function.
Good luck
Mike
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Fri, Sep 30, 2011 4:01 AM
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