What's the wire for on track adjustment bolt?

Go ahead and cut it off.
Its hard to guess why its on there as it isn't strong enough to hold anything there.
Loosen those clamping bolts and squirt lots of "Loose Juice" in the grooves in the adjuster nut to make it turn easier.

Forty years ago we had a D2 that had tight wound wire wrapped like you described. I had forgot about it until you prompted my memory. Underneath the wire we found a rag wrapped around the nut and threads with grease inside of that. I hope you are so lucky. Ours adjusted easily after wiping some greese out of the way. We set it back the same way.

I wrap all my track adjusters,screw thread and/or hydraulic rod with grease and a rag. Seems to prevent rust and corrosion.I have no idea on that wire.That adjuster looks 100% better than mine did--I ended up putting on two nuts to hold the idler out.

I would have to guess that the threads on the nut/bolt are striped and it’s was/is to hold the nut in place. But, that’s just a guess.

Also it looks to me at least, that the adjustment is out as far as it will go, and not being able to see the track frame and idler it’s hard to tell about the adjustment, but! Having to “reduce tension on my right track” leaves a question also…is the tension bolt broken?

Wrapping an old grease/oily rag around the tension bolt threads is an old trick, but a good one.

Kelly

Thanks for the great feedback.
I will take your advice and next I have to explore what it means that the tension bolt may be broken.
The track on the right side of my tractor is very flat with no sag inbetween idler roller and main sprokets.
On left side i have the prescribed 1-1/2" sag.
Thanks again.

Thanks for the great feedback.
I will take your advice and next I have to explore what it means that the tension bolt may be broken.
The track on the right side of my tractor is very flat with no sag inbetween idler roller and main sprokets.
On left side i have the prescribed 1-1/2" sag.
Thanks again.

If you measure the length of the large recoil springs on each side of your tractor, they should be held to a maximum length of 17 1/16" by the spring bolt. The process of dealing with one of these that has broken isn't simple because there is a lot of potential energy in that spring, just waiting to kill or maim someone.

In general, you have two ways to handle it, the simplest way is to heat the coils of the spring with a torch so it relaxes and you can break the track, replace the spring and broken bolt, tensioner etc. Or you can put a pin between the track and the top side of the sprocket and back up until the spring is compressed to approximately the correct length, lock the brake to hold the tractor there and then weld bars between the end plates of the spring to hold it captive. Then drive the tractor forward to release the tension on the track so you can break it and remove the spring. The spring bolt can then be replaced and the spring tensioned to the correct length after the restraining bars are cut off. The spring with the restraining bars is about like a bomb, so careful handling and respect for it's ability to cause grievous injury should be formost in the mind of anyone near it.

I've got one on a D6 that I have dealt with by welding a stop on the track frame to keep it at the correct length, but have had to replace my stop once already, the spring does hammer against it as you use the tractor.

Sweet D2,

Then the D2 recoil spring is assembled, to the assembled length of 17 1/6” it has as an assembled load pressure of 5,400 lbs., more than an enough to cause brutal body jury, if unlashed. So play it safe.

Kelly