What's the best way to test a D6C powershift without pushing dirt?

It will be a test of both brakes and drive train, but the test is to put it in each gear and hold the brakes while revving the engine. Engine should load up/blow black smoke trying to move tractor in each gear.

Thanks for the quick reply. Sounds like it is as simple as lugging the dozer against the brakes but I've never sat in a powershift so wasn't sure how the brakes interacted with the transmission. From reading a few other posts about adjusting the brakes on these things, it's a simple brake band that has no interaction with the transmission-- in other words, pushing the brakes doesn't disengage a clutch or such and I can still get full power to the drive system even when pressing a given brake side. Let me know if this is correct logic.

To test the hydraulics, I believe I can really just lift the front end up by pushing down on the c-arm and looking for bleed down? Not sure what else to test without a blade hooked up.

I'll see if the angle blade is okay- not sure why it's off but hopefully it's just because he was last using a rake or something.

Rex

Check the final drive area for oil leaks. Some of those old gals have been suffering from wallowed out dead axels, not sure how to check for that.

Thanks- I'll crawl underneath her and look for leaks near the final drive and such I just need a reliable dozer for light work so definitely don't need a pristine tractor. I bet I'll be lucky to put 500hrs on whatever I get over the course of my owning it. So I guess weeps around seals is fine but leaks are not good for what I'm looking for.

on my 2 powershifts the left and right brake pedal linkage is hooked to a rod that releases the steering clutches first---however there is a separate brake pedal in the middle of the two that apples the brakes to both sides independently of the clutches---yours may be similar

Now I'm confused as I don't understand how the brakes and steering clutches interact on a D6C 10K. From the little I've gleamed from the web, the brake linkage is not connected to the steering linkage which means I can push both brakes without pulling the steering levers and bog down the engine. If I pull both steer levers, I disconnect each track and can stop with the brakes without bogging down the engine. Which way is accurate?

You are correct. The previous post was referring to a pedal steer machine with no hand clutches.

You are correct. The previous post was referring to a pedal steer machine with no hand clutches.

i normally remove a floor plate so that the prop shaft is visible, stand on both brakes and at full throttle progressively go through the gears both forward and reverse to test. The shaft should stop spinning reasonably quickly, if it continues to spin you have a worn and slipping clutch in that gear or direction. It is just a process of elimination and logic to work out the failing clutch.

Wombat