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what price

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Cytracks
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what price should I offer for a rd4 pony stuck diesel stuck undercarrige 50% hydraulics dozer
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Sat, Dec 8, 2012 12:32 AM
rjh-md
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Estimate the scrap price ,and add a $100 just being a good guy for agreeing to take it away !
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Sat, Dec 8, 2012 12:41 AM
mog5858
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Reply to rjh-md:
Estimate the scrap price ,and add a $100 just being a good guy for agreeing to take it away !
i second that if it's as ruff as you say i go scrap price plus a little. People like round numbers like 100 1000 2500 you could say 2700 but the guy would say he need's 3000 but if you say 2500 he might just take it. just make shear you feel right with the price and that everyone happy. if it's really out in the sticks maybe figger what it's going to cost to load it out cus a scrap guy will take that off the price he pays and then would have to pay to have it cut up too.
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Sat, Dec 8, 2012 1:23 AM
Kelly
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Cytracks,

I would not offer him anything. You don’t want to be the seller and the buyer all in one, You don’t want to be looking for some “Magic” number. Ask him what he wants and go from there…but no more than junk price, plus $100.00 as being the case… as mentioned above.

That my 2cents worth.

KELLY
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Sat, Dec 8, 2012 4:51 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to Kelly:


Cytracks,

I would not offer him anything. You don’t want to be the seller and the buyer all in one, You don’t want to be looking for some “Magic” number. Ask him what he wants and go from there…but no more than junk price, plus $100.00 as being the case… as mentioned above.

That my 2cents worth.

KELLY
For me the #1 question is how are you going to load it. If he is going to pick it up with a track hoe & sit it on your trailer, well that goes a long way. If you have to spend all day busting your rear, then take that into the price. 2nd question is does it have parts you need, or are you going to fix it? If you get the parts you need, sell some more on here, and scrap the rest, then you could stand to give more if need be. If you want to fix it, better get it for free or find one in better condition. Any D4 less than $1000. needs to be bought, any D2 less than $750 needs to be bought.
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Sat, Dec 8, 2012 6:41 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to STEPHEN:
For me the #1 question is how are you going to load it. If he is going to pick it up with a track hoe & sit it on your trailer, well that goes a long way. If you have to spend all day busting your rear, then take that into the price. 2nd question is does it have parts you need, or are you going to fix it? If you get the parts you need, sell some more on here, and scrap the rest, then you could stand to give more if need be. If you want to fix it, better get it for free or find one in better condition. Any D4 less than $1000. needs to be bought, any D2 less than $750 needs to be bought.


The D2 and D4 are not rare machines so don't go offering big money, in fact one of our ACMOC Directors in California scrapped 4 in the past year off to China, and I think two of those were runners, so I'm with Stephen on this, $500 - $750 for running D2's with working motors and steering clutches are a good buy, $750 - $1,000 is a fair price for a working D4 that has no major issues, because you can very easily spend 200 hours and $5,000 fixing both a stuck D2 and D4, and still only have a tractor worth $1,500. Keep your clip in your back pocket unless a good old Cat Mechanic tells you to buy her if she has brand new undercarriage under her for example, or fully rebuilt motors with receipts from the reputable workshop who did the work, because these old Cats are devils to move when they are rusted solid, you need a lift both ends, unless of course the owner says something like "the first $250 I see, she's yours, just git her off the ranch for me", then I'm sure you will get her moved somehow, provided its not 1,000 miles!.😆

From my experience, every seller already has the price set in their mind, so I never make a offer first, I ask them "what's the best price you would take for this tractor", that way you don't shoot yourself in the foot going in high, and if it is close to your budget and you really like the tractor, then negotiate. I was told once we all pay waaay too much for our first antique Cat., but by the time we have bought our 4th or 5th old Cat. we are paying more realistic prices, and that's pretty true.
regards
Mike
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Sat, Dec 8, 2012 6:54 AM
Oil Slick
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Reply to Mike Meyer:


The D2 and D4 are not rare machines so don't go offering big money, in fact one of our ACMOC Directors in California scrapped 4 in the past year off to China, and I think two of those were runners, so I'm with Stephen on this, $500 - $750 for running D2's with working motors and steering clutches are a good buy, $750 - $1,000 is a fair price for a working D4 that has no major issues, because you can very easily spend 200 hours and $5,000 fixing both a stuck D2 and D4, and still only have a tractor worth $1,500. Keep your clip in your back pocket unless a good old Cat Mechanic tells you to buy her if she has brand new undercarriage under her for example, or fully rebuilt motors with receipts from the reputable workshop who did the work, because these old Cats are devils to move when they are rusted solid, you need a lift both ends, unless of course the owner says something like "the first $250 I see, she's yours, just git her off the ranch for me", then I'm sure you will get her moved somehow, provided its not 1,000 miles!.😆

From my experience, every seller already has the price set in their mind, so I never make a offer first, I ask them "what's the best price you would take for this tractor", that way you don't shoot yourself in the foot going in high, and if it is close to your budget and you really like the tractor, then negotiate. I was told once we all pay waaay too much for our first antique Cat., but by the time we have bought our 4th or 5th old Cat. we are paying more realistic prices, and that's pretty true.
regards
Mike
I have a couple Cats that are stuck, come work on them and I'm sure you'll convince yourself to walk away form the RD4. It really can get expensive fixing old equipment and it's not really worth much more once you get it up and running. The other thing to consider, why did it get parked? Did the transmission or a final drive break? Walk away!

If the tractor will limp onto my trailer under it's own power I pay a little over scrap price. If I have to winch the tractor on my trailer I pay a little under scrap price.
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Sat, Dec 8, 2012 9:56 AM
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