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What is the best antifreeze for the D4 7U

What is the best antifreeze for the D4 7U

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power stroke 99
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Does it really matter what antifreeze you run in the older engine?
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Thu, Oct 15, 2009 8:47 AM
SJ
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As long as you use a good permanent anti freeze and use a 50-50 mixture that will be good.I,d use a brand name I think but may cost a few pennies more is all.I,d buy the anti freeze that you add the 50% water yourself as I think it might be a little cheaper.
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Thu, Oct 15, 2009 6:24 PM
power stroke 99
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Reply to SJ:
As long as you use a good permanent anti freeze and use a 50-50 mixture that will be good.I,d use a brand name I think but may cost a few pennies more is all.I,d buy the anti freeze that you add the 50% water yourself as I think it might be a little cheaper.


Thanks.....thats what I was thinking. I might buy Cat if I go to the shop soon, I run Caterpillar in my truck.
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Thu, Oct 15, 2009 6:55 PM
Jack
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Reply to power stroke 99:


Thanks.....thats what I was thinking. I might buy Cat if I go to the shop soon, I run Caterpillar in my truck.
I once bought a 50 gal drum of "permanent antifreeze" from the farmer's co-op store. It was straight ethylene glycol with no additives whatever. My cooling systems rusted and crudded up in nothing flat--worse than straight water for some reason.

If you're going to use the cheap stuff like I did, invest in some good anti-rust additive or nal-cool, or Cat coolant conditioner perhaps. I personally decided that cheap cost me a lot more than the good stuff in the long run.

Just my personal experience,

Jack
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Fri, Oct 16, 2009 8:04 AM
Wally Macomber
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It is very important to use anti-freeze that has the Special Coolant Additive (SCA). This is the easiest way to protect the liners from pitting.
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Sun, Nov 29, 2009 12:31 AM
ol Grump
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Reply to Wally Macomber:


It is very important to use anti-freeze that has the Special Coolant Additive (SCA). This is the easiest way to protect the liners from pitting.
Any good ethylene glycol antifreeze is better than none. I've been using Prestone, Zerex or Peak for many years in anything I have that needs it, and during winter here temps can and do drop well below zero. I wouldn't bother with the 50/50 premixed stuff, just get the full strength stuff and add the water yourself. A lot of folks use distilled water but I never have. .just clean tap water.
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Sun, Nov 29, 2009 9:26 PM
firpitch
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Reply to ol Grump:
Any good ethylene glycol antifreeze is better than none. I've been using Prestone, Zerex or Peak for many years in anything I have that needs it, and during winter here temps can and do drop well below zero. I wouldn't bother with the 50/50 premixed stuff, just get the full strength stuff and add the water yourself. A lot of folks use distilled water but I never have. .just clean tap water.
In my part of the world, humidity is high. I have a dehumidifier in the shop to keep machine tools from rusting when condensation happens. I use the water from the dehumidifier to mix with the antifreeze. Seems like it should be pure. I agree with buying full strengh but if you have bad water, it may be better to buy the mix to prevent nasty build up in your cooling system.
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Mon, Nov 30, 2009 9:47 AM
OzDozer
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Reply to firpitch:
In my part of the world, humidity is high. I have a dehumidifier in the shop to keep machine tools from rusting when condensation happens. I use the water from the dehumidifier to mix with the antifreeze. Seems like it should be pure. I agree with buying full strengh but if you have bad water, it may be better to buy the mix to prevent nasty build up in your cooling system.
The best antifreeze is the ready-to-go ethylene glycol coolant, with additional corrosion-combating additives, that is made by the manufacturer to suit their engines.
Anyone who uses straight tap water added to the full strength glycol .. unless its pure rainwater, is asking for trouble. Tap water is full of chemical impurities, picked up from the source, plus picked up from the deposits in pipes.

I have had the same experience as Jack. Bought some Brand X, universal glycol premix, and I might as well have added straight sea water. The cooling system crudded up in no time, due to a lack of corrosion-combating additives, and probably the tap water they used in the factory.

In addition, OEM coolant has additives added to combat liner electrolysis, and to quell the electrolytic action between the different metals in cooling systems.
Often, corrosion-combating additives are added to coat the peculiar alloys used by individual manufacturers.

The old Cats are simpler machines, with little or nothing by way of aluminum/magnesium alloys, unlike most modern engines .. but cast iron in the block, and copper and brass in radiators, all require protection from just plain corrosion created by water, iron and air .. and the chemical compounds carried in what appears to be good quality drinking water.
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Mon, Nov 30, 2009 10:50 AM
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