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What does YOUR D2 drawbar gap measure?

What does YOUR D2 drawbar gap measure?

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Old_n_slo
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Yeah, so as I got to the back of the tractor, and saw I now had room to focus on soooo many more projects that I really didn't want to get to.....but at the same time "while I am in there-itis" started creeping in.

Now it's drawbar time. Surely it could use some attention to tidy it up a bit. I have removed all former do-dads and home brewed whatchamallits, along with probably a coffee cup holder or two and got to the factory setup at the back end.

My guess is the former owner wanted to run some equipment that had thicker draw tongues, and thus opened up that drawbar gap. My parts D2 drawbar is really opened up, but I'll fathom a guess at an 1 7/8" (something less than 2") as being the factory gap on those machines.

Now, related to this is the pivot point of the drawbar. What would cork (part 2B7557) be doing in that harsh environment? Same with the swivel end, a shoe (5B3361)? What is that for?

Anyone care to confirm their drawbar gap or even poke fun at the manly drawbar extension?
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Sat, Jul 7, 2012 11:16 PM
zootownjeepguy
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Looks like your drawbar was a High School Welding Shop project.😆 Or, maybe someone was trying to learn Blacksmithing.
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 12:36 AM
neil
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I can just make out the original part of the drawbar. It's the curved portion just to the right of the swing brace in the second picture. The previous owner has welded a whole bunch of junk on to it. If you were handy with a gas axe, you could probably slice the welds back off and return it to (sort of) original. Don't have a handy picture of mine unfortunately.
Cheers,
Neil.
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 12:37 AM
Old_n_slo
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Reply to neil:
I can just make out the original part of the drawbar. It's the curved portion just to the right of the swing brace in the second picture. The previous owner has welded a whole bunch of junk on to it. If you were handy with a gas axe, you could probably slice the welds back off and return it to (sort of) original. Don't have a handy picture of mine unfortunately.
Cheers,
Neil.


Agreed. And while I'm no slouch when using a smoke wrench, the drawbar has been decapitated just above the centerline of the drawbar. That's where OEM ends, and redneck begins (along with lengthening). Since I have half an arc, I can guess on where to graft back on. I was just looking for a leg up on getting it close to a "normal" gap.

Oh, and Rich, there is no way a HS student could have done a hack job like this. I'm leaning toward two grown men, where the start of the conversation was.....Hold my beer and watch this....

😆
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 1:12 AM
Cysco
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Reply to neil:
I can just make out the original part of the drawbar. It's the curved portion just to the right of the swing brace in the second picture. The previous owner has welded a whole bunch of junk on to it. If you were handy with a gas axe, you could probably slice the welds back off and return it to (sort of) original. Don't have a handy picture of mine unfortunately.
Cheers,
Neil.
Here is a picture of the drawbar on my Cat......a bit different than yours 😊[attachment=13610]P1010468.jpg[/attachment]
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 1:21 AM
Old_n_slo
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Reply to Cysco:
Here is a picture of the drawbar on my Cat......a bit different than yours 😊[attachment=13610]P1010468.jpg[/attachment]
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Cysco, nice, nice, nice, nice!!! I wouldn't label it as drawbar envy, but you have set the standard very high. Thanks!

I do have a couple questions. Yours shows two riveted tags on the hind end. Mine has one (serial # duplicate), what is the other?

That swing bar looks to be super low hours. What are those four rectangular nibs sticking up?

Are those swing pins a factory setup (in black)?

Lastly, what does that gap measure inside for drawn equipment?
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 2:16 AM
STEPHEN
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Reply to Old_n_slo:
Cysco, nice, nice, nice, nice!!! I wouldn't label it as drawbar envy, but you have set the standard very high. Thanks!

I do have a couple questions. Yours shows two riveted tags on the hind end. Mine has one (serial # duplicate), what is the other?

That swing bar looks to be super low hours. What are those four rectangular nibs sticking up?

Are those swing pins a factory setup (in black)?

Lastly, what does that gap measure inside for drawn equipment?
The nibs are part of a wear plate that fits between the drawbar and quadrant to keep the drawbar from wearing out.
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 3:16 AM
Cysco
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Reply to STEPHEN:
The nibs are part of a wear plate that fits between the drawbar and quadrant to keep the drawbar from wearing out.
Old_n_slo.

STEPHEN is correct on the "nibs" sticking up.

The swing pins are a factory set-up and the main pin is actually the pin from my Dad's 1953 D2 that I am still looking for now.
I also have all his hand wrenches and both grease guns.

The gap measures approx 2 inches

If I remember correctly Old Magnet told me the other tag identifies the transmission.

I am by no means an expert on old caterpillars but with the help from this group of guys here they made my resto so much easier and fun. It took me over a year and then I took it out and started removing the paint one scratch at a time ! 😊
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 4:40 AM
Mike Meyer
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Reply to STEPHEN:
The nibs are part of a wear plate that fits between the drawbar and quadrant to keep the drawbar from wearing out.
Go buy yourself a good used drawbar for your tractor, it will be cheaper, easier, and look 110% better than anything a gas axe could achieve with that thing of yours, think about Global Warming!😆 My D4 7J is exactly the same almost, with a nifty extension on it's original drawbar, but my tractor had a winch on the back for pulling a scraper, perhaps yours did too?
regards
Mike
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 4:43 AM
Old_n_slo
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Reply to Mike Meyer:
Go buy yourself a good used drawbar for your tractor, it will be cheaper, easier, and look 110% better than anything a gas axe could achieve with that thing of yours, think about Global Warming!😆 My D4 7J is exactly the same almost, with a nifty extension on it's original drawbar, but my tractor had a winch on the back for pulling a scraper, perhaps yours did too?
regards
Mike
[quote="Mike Meyer"]Go buy yourself a good used drawbar for your tractor, it will be cheaper, easier, and look 110% better than anything a gas axe could achieve with that thing of yours, think about Global Warming!😆 My D4 7J is exactly the same almost, with a nifty extension on it's original drawbar, but my tractor had a winch on the back for pulling a scraper, perhaps yours did too?
regards
Mike[/quote]

Good advice, I have considered that and will put a few feelers out there. Anyone with a bar for sale should PM me please. The CAT spent time in an orchard with a Towner disc that I still have. I'll bet they were not happy with the turning radius with the std drawbar setup and thus the nifty extension.



I'm imagining this setup as being similar to an upside down table (4 legs sitting up), and it's tabletop takes the wear. Would I be correct in the drawbar is installed first, then the wear plate slides through the bar, and then the quadrant gets fed through the bar and bolted up?

Cysco, thanks for the measurement. Appreciated.
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Sun, Jul 8, 2012 5:08 AM
zootownjeepguy
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Reply to Old_n_slo:
[quote="Mike Meyer"]Go buy yourself a good used drawbar for your tractor, it will be cheaper, easier, and look 110% better than anything a gas axe could achieve with that thing of yours, think about Global Warming!😆 My D4 7J is exactly the same almost, with a nifty extension on it's original drawbar, but my tractor had a winch on the back for pulling a scraper, perhaps yours did too?
regards
Mike[/quote]

Good advice, I have considered that and will put a few feelers out there. Anyone with a bar for sale should PM me please. The CAT spent time in an orchard with a Towner disc that I still have. I'll bet they were not happy with the turning radius with the std drawbar setup and thus the nifty extension.



I'm imagining this setup as being similar to an upside down table (4 legs sitting up), and it's tabletop takes the wear. Would I be correct in the drawbar is installed first, then the wear plate slides through the bar, and then the quadrant gets fed through the bar and bolted up?

Cysco, thanks for the measurement. Appreciated.
[quote="Old_n_slo"]
I'm imagining this setup as being similar to an upside down table (4 legs sitting up), and it's tabletop takes the wear. Would I be correct in the drawbar is installed first, then the wear plate slides through the bar, and then the quadrant gets fed through the bar and bolted up?

[/quote]

That's a Big 10-4. 👍
Rich Salvaggio
D2 5U9917
'46 Willys CJ2A Farm Jeep, '39 Buick sedan, '49 International KB-7, '37 Allis Chalmers WC, Cushman Scooter(s)
Antique garden tractors & outboard motors
Other rusty old junk comes & goes without warning.

The 2 most useful tools to have in your shop are a Crystal Ball and a Magic Wand
Please log in or create an account to join the conversation.
Sun, Jul 8, 2012 5:28 AM
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