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What do you guys think of this 922B

What do you guys think of this 922B

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Joel59
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I'm thinking of making an offer on this 922b loader. How does it look to you guys? What should I check out? I've never operated this model before, so any operational pointers you can offer would be welcomed. I have a small gravel pit, and would be digging out of the bank and loading my single axle with gravel and top dirt. My thinking is this would be a little tougher/heavier than my 56hp skid steer, plus its a neat old cat!

http://www.machinerytrader.com/listings/construction-equipment/for-sale/11901975/cat-922b
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Thu, Jun 23, 2016 8:34 PM
Cat power
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G'day I think it looks good don't know much about 922b but what I know from my loader is they are a little bit slower than skid steer loaders but they have a lot better view point. The 922b haveing rear axle steer might take a little to get used to but not to bad.
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Fri, Jun 24, 2016 3:27 AM
drujinin
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Reply to Cat power:
G'day I think it looks good don't know much about 922b but what I know from my loader is they are a little bit slower than skid steer loaders but they have a lot better view point. The 922b haveing rear axle steer might take a little to get used to but not to bad.
In the photo's it doesn't look too bad? There was one out here last year that had sat for a number of years with flat tires for around $4000. Everybody got pretty excited about how good it looked. So if that one runs and is fairly tight with decent tires, it is probably a good price!
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Fri, Jun 24, 2016 7:32 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to drujinin:
In the photo's it doesn't look too bad? There was one out here last year that had sat for a number of years with flat tires for around $4000. Everybody got pretty excited about how good it looked. So if that one runs and is fairly tight with decent tires, it is probably a good price!
I have a 922A that is the same machine except that the A has only a few inches of axle occilation and the fenders are much closer to the tire. Air over hydraulic brakes. I love that little loader and it will work hard all day. The biggest issue with them seems to be the steering unit at the bottom of the steering shaft. Many lost the center bakelite piece out of the steering wheel and rain water got in and over time tore things up down below. This one like mine has a cab so no worries. I would not be afraid of it at all.

EDIT: On second look at the pictures I wonder why the exhaust pipe and muffler is tweaked about. May want to take a look to see if the manifold is cracked.
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Fri, Jun 24, 2016 10:02 AM
Joel59
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
I have a 922A that is the same machine except that the A has only a few inches of axle occilation and the fenders are much closer to the tire. Air over hydraulic brakes. I love that little loader and it will work hard all day. The biggest issue with them seems to be the steering unit at the bottom of the steering shaft. Many lost the center bakelite piece out of the steering wheel and rain water got in and over time tore things up down below. This one like mine has a cab so no worries. I would not be afraid of it at all.

EDIT: On second look at the pictures I wonder why the exhaust pipe and muffler is tweaked about. May want to take a look to see if the manifold is cracked.
Thanks for the input guys. Is replacement window glass still available? Could anyone give me a quick tutorial on how to operate this thing when I go look at it. Thanks.
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Fri, Jun 24, 2016 10:41 PM
seiscat
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Reply to Joel59:
Thanks for the input guys. Is replacement window glass still available? Could anyone give me a quick tutorial on how to operate this thing when I go look at it. Thanks.
That 922B looks good, if it was in my area I would try it and buy it. I have had excellent results in the past using ยผโ€ Lexan to replace cab glass, Lexan is available in clear and several colors and shades of tinting. Lexan will become scratched over time so buy the whole sheet and you can replace panels as needed. Cover the area of the Lexan to be cut with masking tape and use a saber saw, making short cuts to avoid heating and melting the Lexan.
old-iron-habit is right, check out the exhaust manifold for problems.
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Sat, Jun 25, 2016 4:57 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to seiscat:
That 922B looks good, if it was in my area I would try it and buy it. I have had excellent results in the past using ยผโ€ Lexan to replace cab glass, Lexan is available in clear and several colors and shades of tinting. Lexan will become scratched over time so buy the whole sheet and you can replace panels as needed. Cover the area of the Lexan to be cut with masking tape and use a saber saw, making short cuts to avoid heating and melting the Lexan.
old-iron-habit is right, check out the exhaust manifold for problems.
True lexan is bloody expensive. You don't need the strength of Lexan for your windows. Plexiglass will work fine at 1/10 the cost. Actually they are flat windows. A portable glass guy gets pretty cheap if you do a few at a time. He can cut them out of safety glass. I've got them for as cheap as $50.00 apiece a few years ago. I don't believe glass has gone up to bad.
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Sat, Jun 25, 2016 8:23 AM
seiscat
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
True lexan is bloody expensive. You don't need the strength of Lexan for your windows. Plexiglass will work fine at 1/10 the cost. Actually they are flat windows. A portable glass guy gets pretty cheap if you do a few at a time. He can cut them out of safety glass. I've got them for as cheap as $50.00 apiece a few years ago. I don't believe glass has gone up to bad.
old-iron-habit I did not realize Lexan had become so expensive, the last sheet I bought was in 1996. I replaced the glass windows on my D6H LGP. You are right, the loader would not need the durability of Lexan.
[attachment=36579]D6H LGP HULDA II.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
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Sun, Jun 26, 2016 12:09 AM
mog5858
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Reply to seiscat:
old-iron-habit I did not realize Lexan had become so expensive, the last sheet I bought was in 1996. I replaced the glass windows on my D6H LGP. You are right, the loader would not need the durability of Lexan.
[attachment=36579]D6H LGP HULDA II.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
there nice little loaders i have a 992B glad i have it but there do have some short comings. there not fast but fun to play with. i not sure how hard your grave is but there where never realy made for digging out of a bank more of a yard loader as what cat said. you add some teeth to the bucket will help a lot and it may work fine. they are heavy so hope there a good ground where you drive compered to your skid steer 18,000 lb i think. the air filter is on the other side on mine maybe it was re-powered or a later model? take a little look see at the back steering knuckles are costly to have to replace. should be about a 1 1/2 yard machine. it's a slippery slope you are one once your start buying old iron it all up hill.๐Ÿ˜‰
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Sun, Jun 26, 2016 1:26 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to seiscat:
old-iron-habit I did not realize Lexan had become so expensive, the last sheet I bought was in 1996. I replaced the glass windows on my D6H LGP. You are right, the loader would not need the durability of Lexan.
[attachment=36579]D6H LGP HULDA II.jpg[/attachment]
Attachment
[quote="seiscat"]old-iron-habit I did not realize Lexan had become so expensive, the last sheet I bought was in 1996. I replaced the glass windows on my D6H LGP. You are right, the loader would not need the durability of Lexan.
[/quote]

Nice looking machine. It appears you have a need for the strength of Lexan.
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Thu, Jun 30, 2016 8:21 AM
ccjersey
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Joel, the 922 and 944 loaders have a two speed powershift transmission with reverser coupled behind a torque converter. The powershift feeds a high/lo range gearbox that you must stop and put everything in neutral to shift. In high range, it is a 2WD machine driving only the front wheels for control/safety while transporting. Low range it is a 4WD.

The controls are the F-N-R lever on the steering column and then to the left of the seat there is the high-low range shifter lever with long grip like a dozer steering clutch lever and then inside of that is the powershift 2 speed lever with a round ball grip. There is also an emergency/park brake lever on the right side of the seat.

The powershift lever will go forward to neutral if transmission pressure is lost (engine is shut down). So put F-N-R lever in N and punch the accelerator pedal down out of the shutdown detent to give it fuel to start before cranking it. It has a low oil pressure stop on the fuel rack so it will not rev up until oil pressure builds up. Once you have transmission pressure, pull the shifter back into low and it should stay there. Shift F-N-R lever into the desired direction and press the accelerator to move off..........then you have to hope you have some brakes! If all else fails you drop the bucket or bump the F-N-R lever for emergency stopping if you can't do anything else.

It is possible to kill the engine and restart it turning backwards by shifting the F-N-R while moving at any speed! The air breather stack is close to the seat, so you should notice that situation pretty quickly by the hot exhaust coming out of it.

Brakes are hydraulic with air assist. There are a couple different brake valves. The simplest uses air treadle valves sending air to a single brake assist air chamber that pushes a single chamber master cylinder to send fluid to all 4 wheels. The complicated one has a redundant circuit built into the booster/master cylinder so if air is lost, you still have some braking without assist. As with any drum/shoe hydraulic brakes, adjusting the shoes is very important.

Brake pedals are a brake/clutch/neutralizer on the left and a simple brake on the right next to the accelerator. Push the left pedal to allow you to race the engine for quickly lifting or curling the bucket etc.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time๐Ÿ˜„
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Thu, Jun 30, 2016 9:21 AM
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