What can I do?

Gary - great question!

NOT HARMFUL to BREATHE --- CLEAN PURE AIR -- is the correct answer.

By mass and exposure routes, skin is large, Lungs are HUGE, anything you can do to protect yourself from inhalation is a plus.
IF you are speaking solvents, soaps, degreasers, etc - you do not want any of those contacting your lungs!
Lung protection depends upon materials and the proper PPE --- PERSONAL PROTECTIVE EQUIPMENT -- AND THAT MEANS APPROVED FOR THE VARIOUS CHEMICALS AND COMPOUNDS EXPOSED TO THE USER.

Some simple compounds/chemicals attack certain aspects of our systems and some are long term effects from short term exposure.

STAY SAFE --- ONLY YOU CAN PROTECT YOURSELF!

Remember the routes of exposure --- INHALATION, DERMAL, OCCULAR, INJECTION. EYES ARE VERY suseptable to rapid absorption.

(years of training in Hazardous Materials Emergency Response did teach me a little - I hope this helps others here)

CTS

the fastest route of exposure other the breathing or swallowing is the eyes.

im a licenced ag chemicals applicator.

the simplest and best is solvent based quick break degreaser in aerosol cans or by the drum with cheap paint brush/parts brush and a jam tin do wear gloves preferably nitrile as there solvent resistant i used both aerosol is easy to apply brush application is better for crusted on grime. and dont forget a scraper/putty knife.

to clean before painting after all the grease and crap is removed with solvent degreaser. i use a water based degreaser called shock treatment made by chemtech you use it in dilute form dont let it dry particularly on aluminium as it is caustic and it can attack paint a little.

OH the good old days of a siphon gun on the air hose and a gas can. An I never saw it go K BOOM.

Thank you for the suggested explanation products that are safe use. Safety is a prime concern when enjoying working on a machine that can be brought back to life.

as you can seethe brak assembly look for wear in the linkage and that it works as it should, buildup of water or corrosion in the housing. a little squirt of spray grease into the pivot points on the linkages. just bassically a good visually inspection of everything. and adjust things to spec.

I have got brake pivot points loose, I got the clutch engagement gear to release. ( how in the world is those two with all the teeth engage without grinding?) I like the idea of not going any farther in tear down. So your thought transkid88 is to spray the clutch moving parts with grease. What about where the teeth are on clutch and motor flywheel? I may use the wrong technical terms out of ignorance. The dozer is thought to have a problem with left side final drive, I have yet got to that problem. As you can see I need all the help possible.

Sorry trainzkid88 I got your communication name wrong.

just a little bit. but use a penetrating oil such as bolt off or yield first. use spairingly.

the toothed plates are the pressure plates the actual friction disks are in between.