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"Weak" pony motor

"Weak" pony motor

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mlauck
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Hello. I have a D8H 46A with a pony motor and ever since last fall, the pony motor doesn't seem to have very much jam. New plugs, nice blue spark on them, pulled apart the Zenith carb, cleaned it, didn't seem very dirty. By "weak" I mean that the pony will fire right up nice, idle very nice, runs ok (maybe a little slow) when you engage the pinion, but when the machine is cold, there is no way it will run with compression on the main engine in high gear. Last spring I could start the cat without using low gear no problem in about 0 C temperatures, the other day in +7 I had to warm up in low gear, go to high gear and with lots of arm action between the main throttle (so not to dump excess fuel into it) and throwing the compression leaver on and off to prevent pony from stalling, I finally got it to start. After the cat is warm of course, it starts the main no problem.

My question is, with pony starting so nice, not backfiring or sputtering, but very clearly having less power than normal, should I be looking at a fuel issue (tank/line plugged) or could this be spark?

Thanks!
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Fri, Mar 23, 2018 7:18 PM
neil
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Possible it's fuel - maybe not starvation but mixture, although if it leaned out, I'd expect it to overheat. Definitely worth the minimal effort to confirm that you have a solid fuel flow, and a clean and kit through the carb wouldn't hurt either. Have you checked your valve lash? Too loose or too tight can affect power materially.
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Fri, Mar 23, 2018 7:21 PM
catsilver
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Reply to neil:
Possible it's fuel - maybe not starvation but mixture, although if it leaned out, I'd expect it to overheat. Definitely worth the minimal effort to confirm that you have a solid fuel flow, and a clean and kit through the carb wouldn't hurt either. Have you checked your valve lash? Too loose or too tight can affect power materially.
I would suspect corroded linkage on the pony motor governor, or the governor seized, its obviously not opening up when the load comes on.
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Fri, Mar 23, 2018 8:05 PM
edb
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Reply to catsilver:
I would suspect corroded linkage on the pony motor governor, or the governor seized, its obviously not opening up when the load comes on.
Hi Team,
after you check the pony governor linkage, as catsilver suggests, also check the oil in the pony crankcase is not fuel diluted--occurs when pony gas tank shutoff valve is not turned off to run the pony to a stop, but the mag cut toff switch is used to stop the pony and the pony gas valve is left on.
Also check the oil level in the pony Transmission, the pony air cleaner for overfull with oil (dirt and water raises the oil level so it floods the mesh in the main part of the cleaner body and restricts air flow--check mesh for grass clippings etc.
If you have the later paper element type check the paper is not saturated with water or dirt--restricts air to pony but would cause mixture problem you seem to not have but worth checking for the short time it takes--mud daubers may have built a home in the cleaners too.
The pony carb having adjustable main jet you can partially compensate for these restrictions and get it to run acceptably but with low power--acts like running at part throttle only.
Check pony exhaust outlet for restriction too.
Just some odd things to check that MAY be existent that I have encountered in other engines in the past.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Sat, Mar 24, 2018 6:24 AM
old-iron-habit
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Reply to edb:
Hi Team,
after you check the pony governor linkage, as catsilver suggests, also check the oil in the pony crankcase is not fuel diluted--occurs when pony gas tank shutoff valve is not turned off to run the pony to a stop, but the mag cut toff switch is used to stop the pony and the pony gas valve is left on.
Also check the oil level in the pony Transmission, the pony air cleaner for overfull with oil (dirt and water raises the oil level so it floods the mesh in the main part of the cleaner body and restricts air flow--check mesh for grass clippings etc.
If you have the later paper element type check the paper is not saturated with water or dirt--restricts air to pony but would cause mixture problem you seem to not have but worth checking for the short time it takes--mud daubers may have built a home in the cleaners too.
The pony carb having adjustable main jet you can partially compensate for these restrictions and get it to run acceptably but with low power--acts like running at part throttle only.
Check pony exhaust outlet for restriction too.
Just some odd things to check that MAY be existent that I have encountered in other engines in the past.
Cheers,
Eddie B.
Did you drill out the lead plugs in order to clean the sealed carburator passages when you had it apart? .17 air rifle pellets work nice to reseal the passage ends.
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Sat, Mar 24, 2018 8:49 AM
mog5858
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Reply to old-iron-habit:
Did you drill out the lead plugs in order to clean the sealed carburator passages when you had it apart? .17 air rifle pellets work nice to reseal the passage ends.
the first thing i think of is bad gas. it's the easy to check / change. try and use something with out any ethanol in it. 92 or higher really helps them as pony motor's where designed to run on leaded fuel. if the pony run's fine with out choke i would say your crab pass way is clean i be leave that's just for the ideal ?
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Sat, Mar 24, 2018 9:10 AM
hotrodwelder1
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Reply to mog5858:
the first thing i think of is bad gas. it's the easy to check / change. try and use something with out any ethanol in it. 92 or higher really helps them as pony motor's where designed to run on leaded fuel. if the pony run's fine with out choke i would say your crab pass way is clean i be leave that's just for the ideal ?
My pony was the same, ended up putting new rings and a hone job. Use oil with zinc additive ZDDP. That needs zinc to lubricate the internals. Use a high quality fuel, i use 100 oct low lead for airplanes.
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Mon, Mar 26, 2018 1:23 AM
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