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Weak Cylinder on D4 7U (I think 7U)

Weak Cylinder on D4 7U (I think 7U)

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FlyingD4
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I have a late 1940s D4. According to a friend of mine who works at CAT and looked up my serial number (5T680😎 it was originally an RD4, and he thinks made probably in January of 1947. I purchased this about a year ago, and the thing had been sitting for about 10 years prior to getting it fired up. The pony motor made compression but had a bad magneto and bad spark plugs. Rebuilt the mag, replaced the plugs, and the thing fires up quite well now, and starts the main engine. Not surprisingly, the hydraulic rams needed to get rebuilt. Got that taken care of, and got the required bolts to replace some of the track pads that are a bit loose.

A friend of mine who knows much more about these old dozers said he thought that one of my cylinders was running a bit weak. The other day while I had it running I cracked the nuts on each of the injectors one at a time. Cylinders 1, 3, and 4 all created an equal and noticeable miss when they got cracked (this was at idle). The #2 cylinder resulted in a drop, but less noticeable of one, notably different. Another thing the engine seems to do is sometimes it'll have what seems like a cylinder kick in for a second with a hard revving up, and then come back down. In normal running the engine is smooth.

Another clue to this: when cranking over with the pony motor, even with the throttle all the way forward at "off", the engine will have white smoke coming out of the exhaust pipe, and sometimes it will catch and then the pinion will disengage on the pony motor, so then I'll have to reengage the pinion and start the process over again.

This is making me think the most likely issue is a problem with the #2 injector, although I suppose the fuel pump could be the other issue. Curious what the experienced folks here think, along with where I might be able to get either this injector rebuilt or get a rebuilt injector if that seems the most likely issue.
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Wed, Jul 31, 2019 3:11 AM
Andrew
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Your machine is as you said a 5T series.
Do a complete fluid change on the engine including the injector pump housing then give it some hard work for afew hours before worrying about the choof in the engine.
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Wed, Jul 31, 2019 5:10 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Andrew:
Your machine is as you said a 5T series.
Do a complete fluid change on the engine including the injector pump housing then give it some hard work for afew hours before worrying about the choof in the engine.
5T's use the D4400 engine not the same as the D315 "U" models. Entirely different fuel injectors.
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Wed, Jul 31, 2019 6:52 AM
ccjersey
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It's a process and you need a special injector socket to remove them but you can install the injector(s) to the lines either pointed straight up or with the lines installed pointing out over the tracks, you can install them pointed down so you can watch them spray by turning the fuel on and off with the throttle or starting and stopping the rotation of the main engine with the pony pinion clutch. I would always keep the decompression lever on START so the engine doesn't run while you're testing. You can also swap injectors or even pumps to isolate the bad component. Keep hands away from injector spray! Diesel injected through skin is a medical emergency for which treatment should be sought asap to avoid gangrene.

Could be injector, pump or some cylinder or head component that's bad. Injector should be easiest to fix, but getting them worked on got a whole lot harder recently when Bill Walter stopped doing them. We REALLY need to get someone else up to speed and doing that or identify shops that can still do the work.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Jul 31, 2019 8:43 AM
FlyingD4
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Reply to ccjersey:
It's a process and you need a special injector socket to remove them but you can install the injector(s) to the lines either pointed straight up or with the lines installed pointing out over the tracks, you can install them pointed down so you can watch them spray by turning the fuel on and off with the throttle or starting and stopping the rotation of the main engine with the pony pinion clutch. I would always keep the decompression lever on START so the engine doesn't run while you're testing. You can also swap injectors or even pumps to isolate the bad component. Keep hands away from injector spray! Diesel injected through skin is a medical emergency for which treatment should be sought asap to avoid gangrene.

Could be injector, pump or some cylinder or head component that's bad. Injector should be easiest to fix, but getting them worked on got a whole lot harder recently when Bill Walter stopped doing them. We REALLY need to get someone else up to speed and doing that or identify shops that can still do the work.
Thanks for the replies.

The engine has gotten several hours of good working, I'd say probably 3-5 hours worth. I've also been running PowerSerivce in the diesel (works well on my diesel trucks). Since I've only diagnosed this #2 cylinder being weak now I can't compare it to previous. It does seem like the occasional kick-in/rev-up is less than it was and the engine running smoother than it did, so maybe after 10 years that 3-5 hours it needs is really more than that. I'll keep working it.

Is there anyone who does work on these anymore or when they're done working am I SOL? Really do love this old machine.
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Thu, Aug 1, 2019 3:14 AM
WA7OPY
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Reply to FlyingD4:
Thanks for the replies.

The engine has gotten several hours of good working, I'd say probably 3-5 hours worth. I've also been running PowerSerivce in the diesel (works well on my diesel trucks). Since I've only diagnosed this #2 cylinder being weak now I can't compare it to previous. It does seem like the occasional kick-in/rev-up is less than it was and the engine running smoother than it did, so maybe after 10 years that 3-5 hours it needs is really more than that. I'll keep working it.

Is there anyone who does work on these anymore or when they're done working am I SOL? Really do love this old machine.
Change the oil in the inj pump, very important...WA7OPY
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Thu, Aug 1, 2019 9:53 PM
jstandle
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Reply to WA7OPY:
Change the oil in the inj pump, very important...WA7OPY
You could also move that injector to a different cylinder and see if that issue follows it.

Jordan
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Fri, Aug 2, 2019 12:14 AM
FlyingD4
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Reply to WA7OPY:
Change the oil in the inj pump, very important...WA7OPY


I'm pretty sure I did that already. I went through and changed a bunch of oil everywher,e although it would've only run around 3 hours since that.
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Fri, Aug 2, 2019 3:42 AM
bursitis
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Reply to FlyingD4:


I'm pretty sure I did that already. I went through and changed a bunch of oil everywher,e although it would've only run around 3 hours since that.
you can add copious amount of ATF to the oil and warm it up real good then change the oil back to regular. this will in some cases loosen up any stuck rings. it takes quite a bit.

D46U straight blade,D46U cat angle blade,allis chalmers AD4 grader and Khoering 404 dragline. D4C 40A,D4 2T and scraper.

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Fri, Aug 2, 2019 5:23 AM
FlyingD4
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Reply to bursitis:
you can add copious amount of ATF to the oil and warm it up real good then change the oil back to regular. this will in some cases loosen up any stuck rings. it takes quite a bit.


My concern there would be it also taking out some older seals, which I've heard of happening with the high detergent factors of ATF. However that would be one option to consider. I haven't tried turning the engine over to see if I can identify a weaker cylinder than the others, and that could also be part of my issue.
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Fri, Aug 2, 2019 9:36 PM
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