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Water in oil D4/ D315 engine

Water in oil D4/ D315 engine

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Cobalt Kid
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Hello to all.

I must say first off that this forum is very informative, and the knowledgeable people are many. Much thanks.


This is my problem.

Acquired a D4 in the spring of this year. The starting clutch was seized,oil seal for the pup engine was leaking, fixed both. Finally got pup to run after fixing the mag and caburator( coil, points, condenser, float height, seat, needle jet, bullseye gasket, new plugs, plug wires, ends, and oh yes fixed starter for pup too.
Got the diesel running. Problems did not end here,lol. Found a good leak where the oil lines go into the oil cooler, had to shut it down. This is not bad, can loop back. My problem is the oil is chocolate. Was black when I checked before turning it over.
The guy that I got it from said that it sat for at least 7 to 10 years. There is no knocks, or other weird noises as of yet, just the milk coloured oil. Took a bit of either to get it going, just a few short squirts, nothing serious. Once I get the piping for the loop back, I am going to add new oil , (it just registers on the stick as of now, lost alot)and start it up, look for bubbles in the rad( head gasket maybe). Not sure what else to do after that, but drain and refill with fresh oil. If it still persists will have to tear off the head I guess. Could it be possible that sitting with maybe the exhaust valves open all this time be my problem, and the rain over the years had settled to the bottom of the pan, and when i kicked it over everything mixed, or am I just dreaming for an easy solution.

Cobalt Kid
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Wed, Oct 20, 2010 3:28 AM
rditz
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have you checked the coolant to see if oil has pushed it's way into the cooling system?? I would have thought that the oil would go milky with coolant in it.

I would personally drain the oil and put to the side. go buy 15-20 litres and refill. run again and see if your oil get contaminated right away. (at approx $40.00 for 20 litres,it is a cheap check).

if you oil does get contaminated again, then you know you have another leak somewhere else...

good luck

rod
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Wed, Oct 20, 2010 3:54 AM
Aphonopelma
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Reply to rditz:
have you checked the coolant to see if oil has pushed it's way into the cooling system?? I would have thought that the oil would go milky with coolant in it.

I would personally drain the oil and put to the side. go buy 15-20 litres and refill. run again and see if your oil get contaminated right away. (at approx $40.00 for 20 litres,it is a cheap check).

if you oil does get contaminated again, then you know you have another leak somewhere else...

good luck

rod
Does the D315 engine have a gear driven water pump? I had the shaft seal on my 3304 engine go bad between the water pump side and the gear (oil) side. The coolant was pushed/drained into the oil pan. The engine did a nice job of mixing the mess into chocolate milk.
Scott

1975 951C
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Wed, Oct 20, 2010 4:44 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Aphonopelma:
Does the D315 engine have a gear driven water pump? I had the shaft seal on my 3304 engine go bad between the water pump side and the gear (oil) side. The coolant was pushed/drained into the oil pan. The engine did a nice job of mixing the mess into chocolate milk.
Did you start out with new oil? or at least drain the water/condensate off the bottom before starting it up?
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Wed, Oct 20, 2010 6:25 AM
Cobalt Kid
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Did you start out with new oil? or at least drain the water/condensate off the bottom before starting it up?
Thanks for the replies.

There is no oil in the coolant, and the pump is driven by the fan belt and crankshaft pulley. And as far as draining the oil first,no. I thought that I would run it to operating temp, and then shut down and do a complete oil change with new filter, and oil. In hind site,I guess I should have at least drained some off first to check for water content in pan. I am not a mechanic, and have never worked on diesels before, let alone ones that have sat for awhile. All that I have learned came from reading manuals and what infomation that I have read from here. But I do love old cats.

Cobalt Kid
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Wed, Oct 20, 2010 8:16 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Cobalt Kid:
Thanks for the replies.

There is no oil in the coolant, and the pump is driven by the fan belt and crankshaft pulley. And as far as draining the oil first,no. I thought that I would run it to operating temp, and then shut down and do a complete oil change with new filter, and oil. In hind site,I guess I should have at least drained some off first to check for water content in pan. I am not a mechanic, and have never worked on diesels before, let alone ones that have sat for awhile. All that I have learned came from reading manuals and what infomation that I have read from here. But I do love old cats.

Cobalt Kid
OK, just thought I'd ask before going in to the long list of candidate sources of water leakage. Probably nothing wrong once you get converted to new oil and get the old crud flushed.

In the future you should check/drain off all compartments before starting a resting Cat.
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Wed, Oct 20, 2010 10:05 PM
drujinin
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Reply to Old Magnet:
OK, just thought I'd ask before going in to the long list of candidate sources of water leakage. Probably nothing wrong once you get converted to new oil and get the old crud flushed.

In the future you should check/drain off all compartments before starting a resting Cat.
Change that to ANY machine that has oil in it and rested for a long time.
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Thu, Oct 21, 2010 1:04 AM
Cobalt Kid
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Reply to drujinin:
Change that to ANY machine that has oil in it and rested for a long time.
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Thanks gentlemen for the info.
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Thu, Oct 21, 2010 2:15 AM
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