Traxcavator disease

Without damping your enthusiasm, as I own a 933 myself, may I ask what is holding up the loader arms and bucket? Please tell me there is a hoist hooked to it, but is out of sight. I would be very concerned about working under that whole loader mechanism while dis-assembling the panels and motor. If the worst were to happen, there wouldn't be time to clear out. Good luck with the "new" 933. I would love to see pictures, but please be careful.

Hi, B4D2.
Maybe my ol' eyes is failin' me but I seem to see a safety bar atop the right hoist ram. You wanna hava nuther look?

Hi, Yeildmap.
Good catches and happy restoring. I can't help you with removing the engine 'cos I've never been into the bowels of one of those little jiggers but it does sound about right.

Is the direct start conversion a Cat original or one of the retro fit units....there is a difference. The original helical drive on the D2 is a smaller diameter (by 1/8 in.) than the retro units that use the common later drive. This difference effects the location of the starter mounting hole location. The retro fit mounting will also fit the D4/6 but the original and retro will not interchange in the same mount on the D2/933 11A (without modification to get the drive to fit).

I don't like the look of that safety bracket, it needs to be held with a 'U' bolt and you need one each side with that section of angle, there won;t be any warning when it comes down, I know, I've been standing in the engine space when a set of arms came down.
You still have to lift the back end 12" and unbolt the cross bar from the main frame and bottom of the engine, lifting the front of the frame 12" to get the engine out. The rest of your plan is OK, but for goodness sake make sure those safety bars are installed and secured.

I don't like the look of that safety bracket, it needs to be held with a 'U' bolt and you need one each side with that section of angle, there won;t be any warning when it comes down, I know, I've been standing in the engine space when a set of arms came down.
You still have to lift the back end 12" and unbolt the cross bar from the main frame and bottom of the engine, lifting the front of the frame 12" to get the engine out. The rest of your plan is OK, but for goodness sake make sure those safety bars are installed and secured.

Any time you have a bad knock in these engines first take a 3/4" wrench and open up each fuel line one at a time and see if the knock disappears.100s of times I,ve found many times a bad knock as just a bad fuel injector nozzle and you can,t believe the knock they can cause and can be like someone in there with a big hammer.If you can pin it to one cylnder then switch that nozzle with another one and see if the knock follows the change and if so then you have about a 100% change it being a bad spray nozzle.

I don't like the look of that safety bracket, it needs to be held with a 'U' bolt and you need one each side with that section of angle, there won;t be any warning when it comes down, I know, I've been standing in the engine space when a set of arms came down.
You still have to lift the back end 12" and unbolt the cross bar from the main frame and bottom of the engine, lifting the front of the frame 12" to get the engine out. The rest of your plan is OK, but for goodness sake make sure those safety bars are installed and secured.

[quote="Deas Plant."]Hi, B4D2.
Maybe my ol' eyes is failin' me but I seem to see a safety bar atop the right hoist ram. You wanna hava nuther look?

[/quote]

Deas, Thanks for having keener eyes than me. I do agree with Catsilver though regards a mechanical attachment to hold the angle in place, I do however see the wire holding the angle in place. Just the same, I am glad to see that YM has his arms propped. I thought about it some more last night and was going to ask how the arms were held up as he surely had to remove the pump from the front of the motor. Removal of the hydraulic hoses would have surely let the juice out. Nonetheless, thanks for double-checking my critique.