You are correct that you need to loosen the two that take a 3/4" wrench, then you want to turn the Nut with the splits in it.
That why I think I said to spray liberal amounts of loose juice in the grooves/splits of that nut.
Sweet D2,
I see the adjustment is not as far out on the track frame as previously thought. But, if the distances is 3 ½” or more between the two nuts (as the photo shows) your track has reached it ware limits for a D2, and the pins and bushing should be turned (normally).Having said this, and not knowing the history of the tractor in question, a possibility may be that the previous owner over tightened the track to keep it from come off, if in fact the track is wore more than the limits of ware and, you may not have a broken tension bolt after all. Good luck in what you find.
Kelly
[attachment=16605]CatD2%trackajustmentnut..jpg[/attachment].![]()
Exercise caution when using very long cheater bars on the track adjustment bolts/nut. A previous owner of my Diesel Fifty got carried away with the cheater, and twisted the adjustment bolt off right where it goes into the adjustment nut. The adjustment bolt on the Diesel Fifty is 1 1/2 in diameter, and it was no treat taking the whole assembly apart to replace the busted bolt. I spent 4 years salvage welding for Cat before I got into maintenance welding. After getting out many stuck bolts, nuts, taps etc. I find that penetrating oil, sometimes heat, and a lot of patience work better than brute force. Good luck with your project Bill
I agree with steamdrum that is why I said "Squirt It"
Common sense dictates that looking at a rust eaten thread like those.
The last thing you want to do is have to replace the shaft or the nut because it stripped or broke.
I'm not a big advocater of cheater bars, seen too many tools and parts broken or damaged, sometimes fingers.
has anyone counted the links?
Thanks for the feedback; at least I know which nut to "cheat easily" some.
I counted the links; 30 both sides. What does that indicate?
Old skinners have looked at my rear drive wheels and link-rollers and say they have very little wear.
thx
brian
30 links is correct for the open smaller idlers and lower serial#
if you have Serial# 13237 and up the parts book calls for 32 links
Link height when new is 3" 100% wear is 2.75"
distance 4 links 5 pins new is 24 1/2" 100% wear is is 25 1/16 inches
The rear drive wheel is called a sprocket 😖mile:
Dan, is that link height averaged over front/middle/rear of the link or at one specific place along the length of the link? And is the wear reasonably even i.e. both ends will be about the same wear?
Cheers,
Neil.