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Track tension adjustment-which nut

Track tension adjustment-which nut

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Sweet D2
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[attachment=16603]IMG_1579.jpg[/attachment]
With reference to the photo above, I am confused after reading many posts on track tension adjustment even though they were helpful.
I assume since my right side track seems real tight
[attachment=16604]350.jpg[/attachment]
that I need to decrease the track tensioner bolt pushing against the idler.
Or determine if my tension bolt has broken.

My question is , which bolt do you try to turn, assuming that I don't find a broken tension bolt after removing dirt cover to inspect?

I am going to cut the wire in the first photo and then loosen the two "collet locking nuts" that look like they might take a 3/4" socket.
Then, I see two large nuts on the tension bolt itself; which one do you put the wrench on?
The one on the left end of the thread near what looks like a spring cover plate, or
The colleted one on the right with the split in it?
Which one do you try to turn on the threaded section?
Which one takes the giant snipe???
thanks ahead.
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Attachment
D2 3J68xx
Kern Co, CA
[email][email protected][/email]
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Fri, Mar 22, 2013 5:38 PM
drujinin
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You are correct that you need to loosen the two that take a 3/4" wrench, then you want to turn the Nut with the splits in it.
That why I think I said to spray liberal amounts of loose juice in the grooves/splits of that nut.
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Fri, Mar 22, 2013 8:45 PM
mabc
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Reply to drujinin:
You are correct that you need to loosen the two that take a 3/4" wrench, then you want to turn the Nut with the splits in it.
That why I think I said to spray liberal amounts of loose juice in the grooves/splits of that nut.
After you spray the moose on here's how you get the split nut to move easy. Use a cheater pipe on your wrench but don't stop there, put a monster pinch bar in the cheater bar and then adjust nut at your leisure.
The pop you will hear is the just the nut turning for the first time. You will soon be able to turn it with just your cheater bar!! Have fun....
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Fri, Mar 22, 2013 9:33 PM
Kelly
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Sweet D2,
I see the adjustment is not as far out on the track frame as previously thought. But, if the distances is 3 ½” or more between the two nuts (as the photo shows) your track has reached it ware limits for a D2, and the pins and bushing should be turned (normally).Having said this, and not knowing the history of the tractor in question, a possibility may be that the previous owner over tightened the track to keep it from come off, if in fact the track is wore more than the limits of ware and, you may not have a broken tension bolt after all. Good luck in what you find.

Kelly

[attachment=16605]CatD2%trackajustmentnut..jpg[/attachment].
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Sat, Mar 23, 2013 3:00 AM
steamdrum1
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Reply to Kelly:
Sweet D2,
I see the adjustment is not as far out on the track frame as previously thought. But, if the distances is 3 ½” or more between the two nuts (as the photo shows) your track has reached it ware limits for a D2, and the pins and bushing should be turned (normally).Having said this, and not knowing the history of the tractor in question, a possibility may be that the previous owner over tightened the track to keep it from come off, if in fact the track is wore more than the limits of ware and, you may not have a broken tension bolt after all. Good luck in what you find.

Kelly

[attachment=16605]CatD2%trackajustmentnut..jpg[/attachment].
Attachment
Exercise caution when using very long cheater bars on the track adjustment bolts/nut. A previous owner of my Diesel Fifty got carried away with the cheater, and twisted the adjustment bolt off right where it goes into the adjustment nut. The adjustment bolt on the Diesel Fifty is 1 1/2 in diameter, and it was no treat taking the whole assembly apart to replace the busted bolt. I spent 4 years salvage welding for Cat before I got into maintenance welding. After getting out many stuck bolts, nuts, taps etc. I find that penetrating oil, sometimes heat, and a lot of patience work better than brute force. Good luck with your project Bill
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Sat, Mar 23, 2013 8:54 AM
drujinin
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Reply to steamdrum1:
Exercise caution when using very long cheater bars on the track adjustment bolts/nut. A previous owner of my Diesel Fifty got carried away with the cheater, and twisted the adjustment bolt off right where it goes into the adjustment nut. The adjustment bolt on the Diesel Fifty is 1 1/2 in diameter, and it was no treat taking the whole assembly apart to replace the busted bolt. I spent 4 years salvage welding for Cat before I got into maintenance welding. After getting out many stuck bolts, nuts, taps etc. I find that penetrating oil, sometimes heat, and a lot of patience work better than brute force. Good luck with your project Bill
I agree with steamdrum that is why I said "Squirt It"
Common sense dictates that looking at a rust eaten thread like those.
The last thing you want to do is have to replace the shaft or the nut because it stripped or broke.
I'm not a big advocater of cheater bars, seen too many tools and parts broken or damaged, sometimes fingers.
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Sat, Mar 23, 2013 7:02 PM
ag-mike
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Reply to drujinin:
I agree with steamdrum that is why I said "Squirt It"
Common sense dictates that looking at a rust eaten thread like those.
The last thing you want to do is have to replace the shaft or the nut because it stripped or broke.
I'm not a big advocater of cheater bars, seen too many tools and parts broken or damaged, sometimes fingers.
has anyone counted the links?
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Sat, Mar 23, 2013 9:35 PM
Sweet D2
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Reply to ag-mike:
has anyone counted the links?
Thanks for the feedback; at least I know which nut to "cheat easily" some.
I counted the links; 30 both sides. What does that indicate?
Old skinners have looked at my rear drive wheels and link-rollers and say they have very little wear.
thx
brian
D2 3J68xx
Kern Co, CA
[email][email protected][/email]
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Sun, Mar 24, 2013 6:48 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to Sweet D2:
Thanks for the feedback; at least I know which nut to "cheat easily" some.
I counted the links; 30 both sides. What does that indicate?
Old skinners have looked at my rear drive wheels and link-rollers and say they have very little wear.
thx
brian
30 links is correct for the open smaller idlers and lower serial#
if you have Serial# 13237 and up the parts book calls for 32 links

Link height when new is 3" 100% wear is 2.75"
distance 4 links 5 pins new is 24 1/2" 100% wear is is 25 1/16 inches

The rear drive wheel is called a sprocket 😖mile:
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Sun, Mar 24, 2013 7:27 AM
neil
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Reply to dpendzic:
30 links is correct for the open smaller idlers and lower serial#
if you have Serial# 13237 and up the parts book calls for 32 links

Link height when new is 3" 100% wear is 2.75"
distance 4 links 5 pins new is 24 1/2" 100% wear is is 25 1/16 inches

The rear drive wheel is called a sprocket 😖mile:
Dan, is that link height averaged over front/middle/rear of the link or at one specific place along the length of the link? And is the wear reasonably even i.e. both ends will be about the same wear?
Cheers,
Neil.
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Sun, Mar 24, 2013 9:03 AM
dpendzic
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Reply to neil:
Dan, is that link height averaged over front/middle/rear of the link or at one specific place along the length of the link? And is the wear reasonably even i.e. both ends will be about the same wear?
Cheers,
Neil.
[quote="Neil"]Dan, is that link height averaged over front/middle/rear of the link or at one specific place along the length of the link? And is the wear reasonably even i.e. both ends will be about the same wear?
Cheers,
Neil.[/quote]

I really don't know Neil. I have seen pictures of the measurement being taken mid link--I put a straight edge on the bottom of my links and it appears the most wear occurred mid link. In any case i would use the least measurement to be conservative on the life left.
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Sun, Mar 24, 2013 9:20 AM
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