track frame alignment

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Richard~J~W

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just a quick one, to align the track frames to the sprockets, back off the pre-load on the bearings, take the hub cap & nut off and + or - the shims behind the nut, so far so good, but I just want to be sure that putting it back together is correct, install shims and the nut, torque the nut (D4D 300>400lb/ft) then finally tighten the big preload nut with c spanner, do I need to re-check the nut torque after this?

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Sun, Jan 15, 2012 2:16 AM

Old Magnet

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It's not necessary to retorque the nut....really two seperate operations, just torque the nut first.

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Sun, Jan 15, 2012 10:11 AM

Richard~J~W

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Reply to Old Magnet:

It's not necessary to retorque the nut....really two seperate operations, just torque the nut first.

thanks for that OM.

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Sun, Jan 15, 2012 4:32 PM

Gordon.

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Reply to Richard~J~W:

thanks for that OM.

Hi Richard I have all the info you might require for final drive work I have all the tools too. If you get stuck you know how to reach me.
Regards Tim.

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Sun, Jan 15, 2012 4:43 PM

Richard~J~W

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Reply to Gordon.:

Hi Richard I have all the info you might require for final drive work I have all the tools too. If you get stuck you know how to reach me.
Regards Tim.

[quote="Gordon."]Hi Richard I have all the info you might require for final drive work I have all the tools too. If you get stuck you know how to reach me.
Regards Tim.[/quote]

many thanks Tim. I'm in the reassembly stages now having had the guts of the machine out.
I swung the frames in and had a good old look-round and decided it wanted a bit of adjustment. This was after I had to tweak the equaliser bar and the mountings on the track frames!.......the replacement eq-bar was off a LGP and 10" longer, so cut off the excess but then had to modify the brackets

It's been a learning curve, thats for sure 😊

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Sun, Jan 15, 2012 6:24 PM

Gordon.

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Reply to Richard~J~W:

[quote="Gordon."]Hi Richard I have all the info you might require for final drive work I have all the tools too. If you get stuck you know how to reach me.
Regards Tim.[/quote]

many thanks Tim. I'm in the reassembly stages now having had the guts of the machine out.
I swung the frames in and had a good old look-round and decided it wanted a bit of adjustment. This was after I had to tweak the equaliser bar and the mountings on the track frames!.......the replacement eq-bar was off a LGP and 10" longer, so cut off the excess but then had to modify the brackets

It's been a learning curve, thats for sure 😊

All good fun mate, the learning curve never forms a full circle y' know...
You'll be off abroad again soon, i guess.

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Sun, Jan 15, 2012 8:23 PM

Richard~J~W

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Reply to Gordon.:

All good fun mate, the learning curve never forms a full circle y' know...
You'll be off abroad again soon, i guess.

[quote="Gordon."]All good fun mate, the learning curve never forms a full circle y' know...
You'll be off abroad again soon, i guess.[/quote]

yes, next Monday I'm off back to work again till the summer-time, probably mid July will be home again for some more R&R (or P&Q)

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Sun, Jan 15, 2012 9:21 PM

Gordon.

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Reply to Richard~J~W:

[quote="Gordon."]All good fun mate, the learning curve never forms a full circle y' know...
You'll be off abroad again soon, i guess.[/quote]

yes, next Monday I'm off back to work again till the summer-time, probably mid July will be home again for some more R&R (or P&Q)

Just in time for the begining of the harvest then ...
Hope you can post up some pictures of your Cat family and work they are doing. Here or elsewhere.
Regards Tim.

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Sun, Jan 15, 2012 10:05 PM

catsilver

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Reply to Gordon.:

Just in time for the begining of the harvest then ...
Hope you can post up some pictures of your Cat family and work they are doing. Here or elsewhere.
Regards Tim.

The others are right Richard, once you have done that outer nut up tight and adjusted the bearing preload, you can remove it again to change the shims without fear of the hub moving.

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Mon, Jan 16, 2012 8:03 PM

Richard~J~W

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Reply to catsilver:

The others are right Richard, once you have done that outer nut up tight and adjusted the bearing preload, you can remove it again to change the shims without fear of the hub moving.

Thanks Catsilver. But not sure i quite understand, with the hub pulled up with the C spanner i thought the load came out to that nut that needed torquing.
This is where i stand a good chance of making myself look stupid (not listening/understanding what my mentor said last week), but to do the aligment the first thing i did was to slacken off the big castelated nut before attempting to undo the dead-shaft nut

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Mon, Jan 16, 2012 8:30 PM

catsilver

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Reply to Richard~J~W:

Thanks Catsilver. But not sure i quite understand, with the hub pulled up with the C spanner i thought the load came out to that nut that needed torquing.
This is where i stand a good chance of making myself look stupid (not listening/understanding what my mentor said last week), but to do the aligment the first thing i did was to slacken off the big castelated nut before attempting to undo the dead-shaft nut

Hi Richard, the bearing pre-load does go on the outer hub and retainer nut, but if its been tightened up properly, the pre-load won't push the bearing hub back off its taper, you need about ten tons pressure to do that. If you don't feel comfortable with this procedure, just put a small bit of pre-load on, fit your track frames and line them up, then do the final pre-load with the sprockets turning before you let the machine back down on its tracks. The movement of the hub bearings when adjusted will be so small you won't see it when you re-check alignment.

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Tue, Jan 17, 2012 8:13 PM

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