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Tool Bar Dozer for D2-5U

Tool Bar Dozer for D2-5U

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J McLean
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I don't know how to identify the tool bar dozer on my D2. I would like to get the books for it but I don't know what it is... I think it's a Cat because it actually has a CAT I.D. tag on it with a bunch of patent numbers and other info on it but no part number...,
that is, no part number readily apparent. I did find another number but I'm not sure it is the number of the dozer. That number is 4H 1748. I had a cylinder spring a leak and I need to take it apart and see what's up. It looks to have blown out an O ring on the pipe along the top of the cylinder. I need the part number for the Oring and some advice on how to take the cylinder apart and fix it...
Has any one done this lately that would share with me?
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Mon, Jun 20, 2011 11:31 AM
ag-mike
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we're visual here, please post photos. i rebuilt my tb cylinders 2 years back. i disassembled only one, measured up parts needed and bought parts aftermarket from hercules hydraulics for both. good luck
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Mon, Jun 20, 2011 6:09 PM
GreenWannabe
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Reply to ag-mike:
we're visual here, please post photos. i rebuilt my tb cylinders 2 years back. i disassembled only one, measured up parts needed and bought parts aftermarket from hercules hydraulics for both. good luck
IIRC, the tool bar for the D2 was a #42 tool bar. One source for a parts manual is here: http://www.repromanuals.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1. Another is here:http://www.ytmag.com/contents/caterpillar_manuals_list.htm. Good luck in your search.
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Tue, Jun 21, 2011 12:34 AM
J McLean
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Reply to GreenWannabe:
IIRC, the tool bar for the D2 was a #42 tool bar. One source for a parts manual is here: http://www.repromanuals.com/search.php?mode=search&page=1. Another is here:http://www.ytmag.com/contents/caterpillar_manuals_list.htm. Good luck in your search.
Got some pix showing the cylinder in question and what went wrong with it...
1.[ Pix of plate on dozer. Can't find a part# on it.
2.&3.] The cylinder in question...
4.] Where the seal blew out.
5.] the snap ring that holds it together...

I took the 5 cap screws out of the end and removed the end keeper plate. Then cleaned all the gunk and crud off the end of the internal head and found a snap ring holding it together. When I got the snap ring out, I was able to pull the end out far enough to remove the pipe and get to the seals. I replace the one that blew out and reused the other one. Then,I pushed the head back together and tightened up the pipe. Actually, the nut on the pipe won't turn, it's not made to turn I don't think as the nut flat is right on the cylinder exterior wall. At any rate, I was able to screw the pipe into the nut with a good pair of pliers and the 'O' rings held.
But,... and that's a big but, to quote a guy I know that was observing a rather large gal on her Harley at a local rally last week end... we don't need to get into that..., But, now I've got a seep out of the weep hole in the bottom of the cylinder...? I wonder if I got the cylinder packing past the snap ring grove in the cylinder and damaged it in some way. The cylinder never leaked before the pipe seal went.
What I need is the part numbers on the "O"rings, and the other parts on the pipe seals. The packing I can get locally I think.
Any help would be appreciated and I still wonder what the number is on the dozer...?[attachment=9508]IMGP0621.jpg[/attachment][attachment=9506]IMGP0620.jpg[/attachment][attachment=9507]IMGP0622.jpg[/attachment][attachment=9505]IMGP0626.jpg[/attachment][attachment=9504]IMGP0627.jpg[/attachment]
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Tue, Jun 21, 2011 7:32 AM
ccjersey
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It's possible you rolled or pinched the o-ring on the head as you pushed it back into the cylinder past the snap ring groove. It's easy to do. Sometimes there's a burr on the snapring groove that needs smoothing down with fine sand paper (and clean all dust away!) before you push the head back in. Also helps to lubricate the whole area with oil or even grease and take your time.

On the other hand, it appears that you could remove the block on the other end of the pipe a lot easier than messing with the head end of the cylinder. OK, looking closer, I guess not........that part is cast on the end of the cylinder, it's just the adapter to the flat face o-rings that is bolted on.

Have you tightened the bolts/plate that hold the head firmly against the snap ring? If not, the head will move slightly as the rod goes in and out and the packing will leak from that motion. Can also drag the head into the cylinder enough to completely blow the packing if it gets in a bind as the rod is retracted.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Tue, Jun 21, 2011 8:58 AM
ag-mike
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Reply to ccjersey:
It's possible you rolled or pinched the o-ring on the head as you pushed it back into the cylinder past the snap ring groove. It's easy to do. Sometimes there's a burr on the snapring groove that needs smoothing down with fine sand paper (and clean all dust away!) before you push the head back in. Also helps to lubricate the whole area with oil or even grease and take your time.

On the other hand, it appears that you could remove the block on the other end of the pipe a lot easier than messing with the head end of the cylinder. OK, looking closer, I guess not........that part is cast on the end of the cylinder, it's just the adapter to the flat face o-rings that is bolted on.

Have you tightened the bolts/plate that hold the head firmly against the snap ring? If not, the head will move slightly as the rod goes in and out and the packing will leak from that motion. Can also drag the head into the cylinder enough to completely blow the packing if it gets in a bind as the rod is retracted.
i got the breakdown of that cylinder here some where, i'll try to post it tomorrow.
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Tue, Jun 21, 2011 9:49 AM
J McLean
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Reply to ag-mike:
i got the breakdown of that cylinder here some where, i'll try to post it tomorrow.
Hey! That would be great!!!😆
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Tue, Jun 21, 2011 10:49 AM
J McLean
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Reply to ag-mike:
i got the breakdown of that cylinder here some where, i'll try to post it tomorrow.


Didja' find it yet??:hat:
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Thu, Jun 23, 2011 10:09 PM
ag-mike
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Reply to J McLean:


Didja' find it yet??:hat:
hope this works, i have trouble with scanners. this is the only cylinder with a nut on the return tube. hope this helps, it really don't open it up much. if u go to cat, you'll have to buy the kit at 70.00 iffen i remember. ( no individual parts) that is the 1h813 cylinder same as i rebuilt. there kinda a pain to get apart iffen i remember. good luck.
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Fri, Jun 24, 2011 10:21 AM
J McLean
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Reply to ag-mike:
hope this works, i have trouble with scanners. this is the only cylinder with a nut on the return tube. hope this helps, it really don't open it up much. if u go to cat, you'll have to buy the kit at 70.00 iffen i remember. ( no individual parts) that is the 1h813 cylinder same as i rebuilt. there kinda a pain to get apart iffen i remember. good luck.
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YES!!! Thank you Mike! The parts drawing also gives me a clue as to where to start looking for a parts book of my own for that toolbar.
Does your parts book say which of those tool bar numbers apply to the D2?
The numbers I'm talking about are:
NO. 42, NO. 64, NO.2, & NO.64

That sketch you sent is exactly the ram I've got.

Thanks again!!👋
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Mon, Jun 27, 2011 8:49 AM
ag-mike
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Reply to J McLean:
YES!!! Thank you Mike! The parts drawing also gives me a clue as to where to start looking for a parts book of my own for that toolbar.
Does your parts book say which of those tool bar numbers apply to the D2?
The numbers I'm talking about are:
NO. 42, NO. 64, NO.2, & NO.64

That sketch you sent is exactly the ram I've got.

Thanks again!!👋
Your cylinder is used on the no. 2 and 42 tb setups. There were other cylinders used, but the one with the nut like that is a giveaway for id. No. 6 and 64 tb setups are rear single cylinder centered on the back of the machine, no front work with these. You won't find a parts book just for your number, cat lumped alot of tb serial numbers into the parts books. Ebay is the best place to look, look for no. 42 and no. 2 parts book your serial number should fall into the range listed in the book. Does your tag have a serial number on it? It might just be the patent tag. With that both tractor gage blade its a later setup. (mid to late 50's) I might be able to pdf you some parts books though a friend, he's a scanner wiz. Do you have any rear tools? Want some? Have you ever swung the push beams around to the rear? My daughter lives in Casper. good luck.
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Tue, Jun 28, 2011 6:20 PM
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