Timing of D8 14A starting engine

You have to get to the "Operation and Maintenance Instruction" manual for the mag timing info.
I don't have specific for the D8-14A but I do have it for the D7-17A (same pony motor)

By parts manual it shows the #5883 as originally using the American Bosch vertical mag and the Wico (with window & 3-screw cover) came later.

The #3125 (horizontal) originally was AB also.

The instructions attached cover both the AB & Wico

Thanks Old Magnet,
Sure would have been looking forever for the timing mark if not for your directions instructing to find a place to drop a bolt in.
Still am somewhat puzzled about what the window is for. Do you have any idea about it? Seems it is to be sure the rotor contact is lined up with no. 1 spark plug wire terminal when no one cylinder is T.D.C. Am I correct?

I believe you are correct, can't think of any other reason although I can't say as I have ever made use of it.😊 😊

Hey was after some info to time the pony motor on a cat d8 14a if anyone can help that would be great!

Same procedure as used on the D7-17A described here.....
http://www.acmoc.org/bb/showthread.php?25726-Pony-mag-d717a-question

OM, anybody-

Let me set this up. We have a parts tractor D8 14A 6146 afterwards known as "parts" My pony is stuck on D8 14A 7437 or "mine". After confirming a running pony in "parts" it will be installed in "mine". Both machines have the vertical Amer. Bosch 4 bolt cap magneto.

Last week, I was not able to get any spark while attempting to start "parts" pony. I did all I knew how to it without any luck. Today I removed the mag. from "mine" and was able to see some spark with it in a vise and hooked up to a spark plug while being turned with a vise-grips. I then removed the mag. from "parts" and proceeded to time the mag from "mine" following the D8 O&M Instruction book which is the same as OM posted for the 17A. I got the 2-inch x 3/8" bolt to drop into the flywheel. I next checked the trunnion marks and the "slash" did not line up with "TC". I pulled up the trunnion assembly enough to move it one tooth. When it dropped back in, they lined up.

QUESTION- the books says not to remove the magneto trunnion mounting. Was it correct to change the gear by moving it?

I left the bolt still in place in the flywheel. I then removed the rotor and set "A" in line with the Red Line per the book. When I put the rotor back on, it was about 180 degrees off from where the picture in the parts book shows it at the firing point for #1 right above the points.

QUESTION- How do I correct this problem?

Giving up on the timing, I tried to put the magneto in to see if I could get spark.

QUESTION- What is the secret to lining up the male and female slots. I messed around over an hour until I finally made some soapstone marks and got it lined up.

The result was only an intermittent spark. Mostly no spark when cranked with the starter.

QUESTION- What next? New coil, new condenser, send it out for re-build?

Having gained all this knowledge today, I then tried to time the "parts" mag. I could not find an "A" mark on the gear like the other one has.

QUESTION- What do you do when you don't have an "A" on the gear?

I'm sure I'll have more questions before this pony is in my tractor but any help on this will be greatly appreciated.

JanM

Start by checking if the individual parts are working.
1. Check point continuity when the points are closed (lift the wire in the upper LH corner to do the check)
2. Check primary side of coil, should be 6,300 ohms or better (between contact bar and ground)
3. Using a multi-meter with capacitance check feature, check the condenser. Should read about 0.24 micro farads. (one lead on condenser body an one on the disconnected pig tail terminal)

I'll need to go look at one of my parts magnetos to tell what's going on with the gear timing and rotor. Shouldn't be that hard to figure out but
it appears to be out of time. Get back to you tomorrow.

Is the impulse coupling mechanism working properly?

Start by checking if the individual parts are working.
1. Check point continuity when the points are closed (lift the wire in the upper LH corner to do the check)
2. Check primary side of coil, should be 6,300 ohms or better (between contact bar and ground)
3. Using a multi-meter with capacitance check feature, check the condenser. Should read about 0.24 micro farads. (one lead on condenser body an one on the disconnected pig tail terminal)

I'll need to go look at one of my parts magnetos to tell what's going on with the gear timing and rotor. Shouldn't be that hard to figure out but
it appears to be out of time. Get back to you tomorrow.

Is the impulse coupling mechanism working properly?

Jan, you'll also suffer a weak spark if the points are not opening at the correct time relative to the armature. I'm not sure if that's a possible scenario with your mag but something to note if it is.