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Tilted blade

Tilted blade

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funflyer26
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Of course now that my D7 is running, its only a matter of time till something breaks, right? Today while pushing rocks around and filling in some giant holes at some point the blade stopped raising level. The right side holds much lower than the left, and when set on the ground it will only dig in on the right side. I looked around each of the connections trying to find a culprit and discovered that the hinge connection on the right hand side (low side) has a broken/missing lock washer which made the cap really loose around the tractor post that it connects to.

Any tips on fixing this? or just block the blade and trailing arm up, unbolt and add in a new washer and tighten it back up? It seems like it should be pretty simple (in theory).

By the way, the liquid on the nuts is penetrating oil, I was getting it ready to take off.
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 8:49 AM
8C 361
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I see in the photo in your other thread that you have hydraulic tilt. Is this feature working? Is it possible that the tilt cylinder has leaked down causing the blade to tilt?
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 9:14 AM
7upuller
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Hey Fun,

Does your tractor have a hydraulic tilt?
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 9:14 AM
funflyer26
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Reply to 7upuller:
Hey Fun,

Does your tractor have a hydraulic tilt?
It does have hydraulic tilt, but I am probably using the wrong term. the angle of the blade is adjusted via a hydraulic cylinder, but that isn't the part that is twisted. as you are sitting in the cab, the right side of the blade is ~2' lower than the left side. I didn't get a picture of it this afternoon but that would have made the description much simpler.
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 10:45 AM
7upuller
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Reply to funflyer26:
It does have hydraulic tilt, but I am probably using the wrong term. the angle of the blade is adjusted via a hydraulic cylinder, but that isn't the part that is twisted. as you are sitting in the cab, the right side of the blade is ~2' lower than the left side. I didn't get a picture of it this afternoon but that would have made the description much simpler.
Hey Fun,

Nice looking tractor. Yes if you can get some pictures, it would be help full. -glen
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 10:53 AM
funflyer26
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Reply to 7upuller:
Hey Fun,

Nice looking tractor. Yes if you can get some pictures, it would be help full. -glen
Since its dark and 10 miles away right now, this picture should describe the condition fairly well.
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 11:00 AM
Snuffy
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Reply to funflyer26:
Since its dark and 10 miles away right now, this picture should describe the condition fairly well.
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Hi Fun, I think as the others suggested your problem is in your tilt, which will raise a corner of the dozer if you extend the tilt ( manual or hydraulic) or lower the corner if you shorten your tilt arm. The only way you would get the travel you are describing is if the push arm actually became disconnected from the trunion. The loose bolt you showed wouldn't allow enough movement to hardly notice. Try it again and keep a close eye on the length of your tilt changing as you start pushing. Good Luck, Garry
Snuffy
[SIZE=2]1937 22, 1939 D7 9G, 1950 D4 7U, 1953 D4 7U,1953 D2 5U, 1962 D7E[/SIZE]
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 11:25 AM
7upuller
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Reply to funflyer26:
Since its dark and 10 miles away right now, this picture should describe the condition fairly well.
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Hey Fun,

The diagram explains a normal tilt position. The trunion, where the dozer arm connects to the tractor maybe worn or sloppy. There are shims in them when new, and as wear happens, you can take the shims out to make it a tighter fit. Even with wear on the trunion ball, that doesn't make it react by tilting the dozer. In other pictures on the other post, there is a picture of the arm, oppisite from the hydraulic tilt. I think it is a screw adjustment arm. You can twist this arm and it will lengthen or shorten it. The longer makes it ride higher, thus tilting down the other side. If it shortens, it will tilt down on that side. Maybe the threads stripped on the arm, and is tilting the blade. Have someone watch it, maybe take a soap stone and mark the threads when on the ground. Then lift it up and see if the threads are moving in and out, showing it's stripped. Another thought is the hydraulic valve on the tilt stuck and is tilting the dozer.-glen
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 11:26 AM
catsilver
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Reply to 7upuller:
Hey Fun,

The diagram explains a normal tilt position. The trunion, where the dozer arm connects to the tractor maybe worn or sloppy. There are shims in them when new, and as wear happens, you can take the shims out to make it a tighter fit. Even with wear on the trunion ball, that doesn't make it react by tilting the dozer. In other pictures on the other post, there is a picture of the arm, oppisite from the hydraulic tilt. I think it is a screw adjustment arm. You can twist this arm and it will lengthen or shorten it. The longer makes it ride higher, thus tilting down the other side. If it shortens, it will tilt down on that side. Maybe the threads stripped on the arm, and is tilting the blade. Have someone watch it, maybe take a soap stone and mark the threads when on the ground. Then lift it up and see if the threads are moving in and out, showing it's stripped. Another thought is the hydraulic valve on the tilt stuck and is tilting the dozer.-glen
Try pushing the blade down on a block on each corner, or a convenient tree stump one side at a time, there is a good chance the piston has come adrift in the tilt cylinder.
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 2:46 PM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to catsilver:
Try pushing the blade down on a block on each corner, or a convenient tree stump one side at a time, there is a good chance the piston has come adrift in the tilt cylinder.
Hi, Funflyer26.
Sad as it may be, I think Catsilver may be right. If your blade has tilted as far as you show in your second photo and won't come back, I'd be looking at the tilt cylinder first too. From your second photo, I am guessing that your tilt ram is on the left side of the blade. If your tilt cylinder is extended and won't retract, it is very possible that the piston has come unbolted from the rod inside the cylinder. Another effective - if messsy - test would be to disconnect the top end of the tilt cylinder from the top of the blade and block it up so that it is pointing over the top of the blade. Then move the tilt control to the 'Tilt Left' position. It 'SHOULD' retract the rod. If it doesn't, you can then try moving the tilt control the opposite way. This is where it can get messy. You find may that the rod - and a LOT of oil - will come shooting out of the end of the cylinder. I do not advise this test if you aren't into buying a bit of 'Arab Gold' - and cleaning up messes.

IMHO, the loose trunnion cap would not account for the amount of tilt that you show with your red outlines in your second photo.

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 3:17 PM
funflyer26
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Funflyer26.
Sad as it may be, I think Catsilver may be right. If your blade has tilted as far as you show in your second photo and won't come back, I'd be looking at the tilt cylinder first too. From your second photo, I am guessing that your tilt ram is on the left side of the blade. If your tilt cylinder is extended and won't retract, it is very possible that the piston has come unbolted from the rod inside the cylinder. Another effective - if messsy - test would be to disconnect the top end of the tilt cylinder from the top of the blade and block it up so that it is pointing over the top of the blade. Then move the tilt control to the 'Tilt Left' position. It 'SHOULD' retract the rod. If it doesn't, you can then try moving the tilt control the opposite way. This is where it can get messy. You find may that the rod - and a LOT of oil - will come shooting out of the end of the cylinder. I do not advise this test if you aren't into buying a bit of 'Arab Gold' - and cleaning up messes.

IMHO, the loose trunnion cap would not account for the amount of tilt that you show with your red outlines in your second photo.

Just my 0.02.
Gotcha. It took me a minute to understand the physics of what is going on, but it makes sense now thanks. I'll go check the cylinder, it would be rather convenient if nothing was broken and instead I'm just an idiot and bumped the hydraulic controller.
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Mon, Oct 1, 2012 7:25 PM
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