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Threaded push arms welded together---can't adjust---ideas?

Threaded push arms welded together---can't adjust---ideas?

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Barely Smokin
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The previous owner welded the threaded push arms together on my D4D. 😠 It's a 4A blade with manual tilt. These are the two threaded "turnbuckles" that extend up from the lower braces to the top of the blade on each end and adjust the tilt and pitch on the blade. Each turnbuckle has a weld bead around its circumference where it meets the threaded male piece, on both ends.

I got quoted $600/ea salvage, $800/ea new to replace. Yeowzah.

I took them off today and I'm going to take them into my local machine shop tomorrow. The owner has a couple old dozers, so he's probably got some decent ideas on what to do, but I thought I'd ask you guys first.

I thought it might be as simple as grinding the welds down until I expose the male piece inside the turnbuckle, but that might get tricky if I meet the thread instead of the smooth shaft. The machine shop owner said something about re-tapping the threads....I'll be impressed if he pulls out that tap and die, but hey, he's a professional....

Another big question for you: are they threaded at each end? I can't tell b/c they're welded shut. They have zerks on each end, so I'm guessing they are....
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D4D 83J2646
JD 790
JD 440
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 6:36 AM
Old Magnet
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Yes, they were originally threaded both ends.....even if you cut off the welds the threads are probably froze up.
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 7:09 AM
bruce oz
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hello Barely Smokin' ,looking at one pic of a arm that i have they look like they maybe threaded all the way through ,you could try cut through the outer pipe just behind the weld ,cut down to the threaded inner thread and see if they will turn ,then clean it up ,bruce oz
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 7:19 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to bruce oz:
hello Barely Smokin' ,looking at one pic of a arm that i have they look like they maybe threaded all the way through ,you could try cut through the outer pipe just behind the weld ,cut down to the threaded inner thread and see if they will turn ,then clean it up ,bruce oz
I would have to disagree.........The threads are most likely stripped out on one or both ends. Frozen up would be a great thing to find! Lots of heat and pumping grease in there plus a big pipe wrench and you can take care of frozen up after you remove the welds.

I know on the 6S blade, the braces are adjustable, only one end is a ball in the socket on the back of the blade. I have seen several which were welded up like that.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 8:25 AM
Barely Smokin
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Reply to ccjersey:
I would have to disagree.........The threads are most likely stripped out on one or both ends. Frozen up would be a great thing to find! Lots of heat and pumping grease in there plus a big pipe wrench and you can take care of frozen up after you remove the welds.

I know on the 6S blade, the braces are adjustable, only one end is a ball in the socket on the back of the blade. I have seen several which were welded up like that.
Well, the story I got from the PO was that the dozer was used to clear a wood lot at a mill (as in, not worked very hard) and the threaded rods were welded in place because they had a tendency to "loosen up." Huh. I guess this could mean they're stripped but, dang, that's something! The female piece doesn't look bulged out or anything, like I'd expect to see if the threads had been thrust through it. That's what it would be, right? They'd get jammed through? I can't imagine stripping the threads by overtightening the turnbuckle. Seems impossible.

I appreciate the input. My plan is to drop them off at the machine shop and see what this guy says. Hell, I could probably grind them off myself, but I get the feeling it'll take a little more than grinding....
D4D 83J2646
JD 790
JD 440
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 8:37 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to ccjersey:
I would have to disagree.........The threads are most likely stripped out on one or both ends. Frozen up would be a great thing to find! Lots of heat and pumping grease in there plus a big pipe wrench and you can take care of frozen up after you remove the welds.

I know on the 6S blade, the braces are adjustable, only one end is a ball in the socket on the back of the blade. I have seen several which were welded up like that.
Wishful thinking....last set I tried that they were cross threaded and the more you turned the tighter it got. The tube adjuster can be salvaged by cutting the ends off and welding on a threaded section of tubing (some are originally built that way). I wound up buying some new threaded eyes....they weren't to pricey aftermarket.
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 8:39 AM
Barely Smokin
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Wishful thinking....last set I tried that they were cross threaded and the more you turned the tighter it got. The tube adjuster can be salvaged by cutting the ends off and welding on a threaded section of tubing (some are originally built that way). I wound up buying some new threaded eyes....they weren't to pricey aftermarket.
OM, you got a lead on where to get those guys and about what it'd cost? Just checked my quote....B&W Dozer Salvage quoted me $675/each for the whole ass'y.

They way I figure it, that's a decent downpayment towards a 4S blade with hydraulic tilt....
D4D 83J2646
JD 790
JD 440
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 8:48 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Barely Smokin:
OM, you got a lead on where to get those guys and about what it'd cost? Just checked my quote....B&W Dozer Salvage quoted me $675/each for the whole ass'y.

They way I figure it, that's a decent downpayment towards a 4S blade with hydraulic tilt....
The source was either Regal or Heavyquip, can't remember which. I'm equally fuzzy on the price but seems like it was $40- $50 each.
Takes two part numbers.
Blade end is 2J848
Other end is 2J847

Just tried Heavyquip....didn't like the numbers.

Try these (later sr. # blade)
Blade end 8J6643
Other end 8J6642

What is the serial number on your blade?
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 8:57 AM
Barely Smokin
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The source was either Regal or Heavyquip, can't remember which. I'm equally fuzzy on the price but seems like it was $40- $50 each.
Takes two part numbers.
Blade end is 2J848
Other end is 2J847

Just tried Heavyquip....didn't like the numbers.

Try these (later sr. # blade)
Blade end 8J6643
Other end 8J6642

What is the serial number on your blade?
OM, yeah, those numbers didn't come up either.

You're going to make put on my overalls and go outside and look to see if I can find that serial number in the dark....😉
D4D 83J2646
JD 790
JD 440
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 10:09 AM
Barely Smokin
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Reply to Barely Smokin:
OM, yeah, those numbers didn't come up either.

You're going to make put on my overalls and go outside and look to see if I can find that serial number in the dark....😉
OK, got two numbers. The first one is off the plate attached to the back of the blade in the center where it connects to the C frame. It's 2J1070. It also has a number above it that reads YOKL. I get the feeling that's not it.

The other number is on top of the blade on the operator's left side, right in front of where the threaded rod attaches. It's pretty well worn off. The numbers that are easiest to read are H98. However, if I squint, I could possibly read it as 1H0984. The number is about clear worn off the machine.

I attached a picture, if that helps...thanks again.
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D4D 83J2646
JD 790
JD 440
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 10:47 AM
edb
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Reply to Barely Smokin:
OK, got two numbers. The first one is off the plate attached to the back of the blade in the center where it connects to the C frame. It's 2J1070. It also has a number above it that reads YOKL. I get the feeling that's not it.

The other number is on top of the blade on the operator's left side, right in front of where the threaded rod attaches. It's pretty well worn off. The numbers that are easiest to read are H98. However, if I squint, I could possibly read it as 1H0984. The number is about clear worn off the machine.

I attached a picture, if that helps...thanks again.
Attachment
Hi Barely Smokin'
there should be a "Tommy Bar" through the top adjuster rod, I note it is missing in your pic in Post#10, that either end of the bar has a largish washer welded to, these stop it sliding out of the adjuster rod. The bar end then locates into the two vertical pieces of flat welded to the top of the lower arm to stop it turning out of adjustment. You may get lucky and find that what the P.O. said is true and the threads are OK, all they had to do was replace the Bar!!!
Hope this helps,
Cheers,
Eddie B.
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Fri, Jan 29, 2010 11:28 AM
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