Thoughts on hauling

When I haul my crawlers I always remove anything that could fly off - which in the case of the restored machines really only includes seat cushions - and always have them locked in gear with the main clutch engaged and have the brake set. Four chains on the machine and two on the front corners of the blade. I don't want anything to move at all and have all chains drawn tight with ratchet binders so no slack can be felt at all. Some people call that overkill, I call them careless.

This how we do it when we move my D2, plus a little down pressure on the blade

As said above, you can never be too careful. When you talk about "Tractor size is D2 and smaller if that matters. Does it?" absolutley it does. A D2 in operating trim will weigh close to 10,000 pounds with a blade, fuel, dirt in the tracks and belly pan and more if you have a winch. Even a Ten or Fifteen will weigh between 5,500 and 6500 with the afore mentioned additions. Consider that most guys hauling a hot rod to the drag strip are pulling considerably less weigh behind them. In addition, the hauling vehicle may be marginal in braking capacity even with a brake controller and electric or hydraulic brakes. If the machine is loaded too far back, the trailer may want to sway at speed. Good chains and binders plus a machine that is in gear with the brakes set will keep things from adding secondary inertia to the mix. Don't forget the trailer in good condition. Brakes, tires, properly maintained axles, solid decking firmly attached, ramps stowed and secured, lights in operating condition, break-away switch with a good battery. It all adds up to a safe trip.

Actually, Bruce, I think some people CAN be too careful. I once watched my buddy put EIGHT tie down straps on his restored Wheel Horse garden tractor inside his enclosed trailer.
:jaw:

Good advice what Toby said. Also check little stuff, like putting rubber bungee cords to help hold down/make sure stuff like tool box lids don't fly open and loose stuff. Also remember to cover up any rear facing SMV signs (orange triangle) before hitting the highway.
Another good thing to consider is rocks. Mudflaps are your friend, as rocks flying up seem to magically be drawn to things like headlight lenses and radiator cores. Sometimes I bungee a double layer of cardboard over my radiator if the tractor is pointing foreward, or load it backwards if possible.
And I like the ratchet binders also for steel track tractors since they (crawlers) don't have any "give" like rubber tired rigs do. If I do use a cam type binder, I like to wire-tie or bungee the handle shut too, so it doesn't pop open. And I really like using the 2" Pony type spring clamps to secure the rolled up loose or excess ratchet strap ends that you normally see flapping and draging the ground behind guys' trailers after the wind flaps the ends loose and undoes the knot.

I can't entirly agree with the leave it in gear idea. If the fuel is not shut off and it rocks a bit (long shot on tracks) it may want to fire a shot.
More of a problem especially for wheeled tractors is damage to gears from rocking in one spot with no oil circulating. More than one tractor has been damaged during sea transport to Australia with the constant rocking of the ship.
When tensioning chains you want the load to move and equalize the strain not be hauling it up against the drive train or you will be out retensioning in a couple of miles. Another tip don't have a lot of slack in your chains and leave a long loop at the binder, if it comes undone the load will walk olong a lot more and is much more likely to break a chain or go overboard. Also try to put the binders where you can see them in the mirrors and always tie cam type binders closed and to the chain.
happy motoring wimmera farmer

I agree that it needs to move to the chain tension.
I believe that there is a little known DOT Rule that if the load is over 10 feet long it needs 2 chains/straps within 3 feet of each other at the front of the load.
I understand it has something to do with the load flying forward when you hit a brick wall at 60mph.
Jeff

When I move the D4 or backhoe (rarely more than a handful of miles) I'll get 'em on the trailer, shut the D4 off with the clutch disengaged and chain down fore and aft as well as the blade. After I've got the chains tight, then I climb back up, engage the clutch with the tranny in 1st and lock the brakes. With the backhoe, I drop the front bucket and chain it, drop the boom and chain it down at the bucket as well. Then again, fore and aft chains to the tractor itself, then climb back up and lock the parking brake.

Ramps are chained up with the loose end of the chain wrapping the tensioned part, loose ends of the binder chains are wrapped over the handles of the binders. Another walk around the truck/trailer to double check everything and awaaay we go.

I like to use one chain in the front and one in the rear. I loop them thru a pin in the rear and a hook in the front to the d links with one chain binder each.. That way the chain tension will equalize with movement thru the pin or hook. Chain working load has to be greater than 50% of the dead load of the tractor. I always felt that the rear chain is most critical as a dead stop forward can produce more force than a dead stop backwards--mainly because of the velocity's involved. F=MA ya know! 😆😆