Thirty accesory drive shaft removal.

S5535 needs attention to water pump packing gland area. Repair or replace shaft. How does it come out what holds the drive gear onto the shaft. Do I need to remove the radiator and front cover to pull gear. will try to post photos latere if I can get them to load. thanks WF

It has been well over 50 years since I pulled a fan/water pump on a thirty - If memory serves, there are 6 bolts holding the radiator. Other than heavy- pull the radiator, get it out of the way and prevent damage to the core. One thing to check while you have things apart, there is a fiber disk in the fan assembly, it can either be frozen solid (rust) or so loose it does not provide the power to pull the fan effectively. - cts

Thanks ctsnowfighter thought it would be a project. It will have to wait a bit, we have a truck stripped to bare chassis for restoration waiting for weather to warm up for painting.

Others may chime in and offer some help, just know that fan, camshaft, water pump/magneto drive, generator (if equipped) are all gear driven. Water pump impeller will be an issue to remove from the shaft as you must remove the front half of the water pump to get to the impeller. If I recall correctly, you will most likely remove the entire gear case cover. Be certain to note the index marks on the gear train! Timing is all related to those important marks. - cts

CTsnowfighter has given great advice, and here is what I have to add. As CT said, the radiator has to come off. They pull the fan, take it apart, and rebuild it while it is off. As CT said, the friction disks are most likely shot. Take off the front timing gear case. Take off the magneto. Remove the water manifolds to the cylinders. Remove the water pipe from the radiator to the water pump. Remove the governor sleeve from the front of the water pump shaft, replace the thrust bearing while you are in there. Loosen the packing nut and remove the four bolts on the bearing behind the water pump drive gear; move this bearing rearward a little. Remove the bolts holding the water pump to the crankcase. There could be a taper pin between the water pump casting and the crankcase to help with alignment. Pry the water pump loose from the crankcase. You can now move the water pump shaft forward enough to get a puller on the gear. Unless someone has been messing with it there will be no set screw on the gear. It is just a good tight fit on the shaft. The key is not a gib key, it is just a square key. It might help to loosen the packing nuts on the water pump while it is on the tractor to help hold it down. Remove the nuts holding the water pump cover onto the water pump and remove the cover. Take off the mag drive coupling. The shaft with the impeller should come out now. Use caution when removing the impeller. It is held on the shaft with a taper pin and a Woodruff key. The usual way I deal with the impellers is to make the new shaft and then cut the old shaft off short on one side of the impeller, mount it in the lathe, and bore the old shaft out of the impeller. I hope I have not forgotten anything.

Thanks

Ken

ken

Many thanks for the detail proceedure. Will have to wait for a space in our workshop. Has an Aus built Dodge truck scattere from a to z at the moment. Planning to stainless steel shaft, that will take a trip to big smoke to get it plus some cast bar stock for carrier roller bushes. That is another nightmare trying to get a roller shell lined up to rebore one end where bush has been turning for years.Only true surface is where the other bush that has not turned sits. Not this weekend off to Woods Brothers Museum for annual play days there. cheers WF

Hi Colin,

have had computer issues and now with scanning so hope these are OK.

Enjoy the experience of your 30, I enjoyed working on the W Adams unit way back when.

Cheers,

Eddie B.

Part two for your enjoyment.

Eddie B.

You are a legend Eddie thanks so much.Very pleased to have a thirty they are a bit hard to come across in Australia. Catch you somewhere .

cheers WF