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Thinking about WVO?

Thinking about WVO?

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Jack
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I haven't heard of anyone here considering Waste Veg Oil lately, but I expect fuel prices to spike again in the not-so-distant future. So, maybe some operator out there is considering WVO or may at some time.

I found WVO to be an excellent fuel in my D2 5U engine if conditions are allowed for. First, it just will not fire in cold precom cups. It wasn't a big deal when I did this experiment because I crank it at running speed with a 25 HP motor which serves as the generator. I had to crank until diesel reached the injectors to get it warmed up. Second, WVO is a devil to clean. Other than those two problems, the engine ran fine on WVO with no coking of the injectors, as much power as you could expect from diesel and no smoke or foul smell. I like it.

The pics show what I had to resort to to make the WVO usable. First there is the storage tank. I use tanks up to 280 gal so that I can move them to the engine area with my forklift. You got a bigger forklift? You can use bigger tanks. I use a 3 HP centrifugal pump to transfer from storage to the first holding barrel. When it's cold you need it.

The first holding barrel, sort of grey/green color, has a 2" drain valve in the bottom so free water can be drawn off before I work the fuel. Pretty necessary at times. There is a basket screen with about 0.005" openings through which to dump in the fuel. It also has a gear pump hanging over the side that is calibrated at just 4 gal-hour. I use wrecking yard engine oil pumps and make a drive slow enough to get the 4 gph. (Wash machine motor and an old tiller gear box.)

4 gph is delivered to a 1 cu.ft. cooker--steel box, wood jacketed, with water heater calrod in the bottom. Thermostat is set about 190 degrees. It will run between 180 and 210 with 4 gph going through. This evaporates off the suspended water, the milky color. Oil off the top drains into a centrifuge in the next box.

The centrifuge is over driven to about 3800 rpm. I don't know how many G's that produces but it's considerable. Oil trickles in the top, the gunk stays in the bowl and clean oil spins out in a fog, lands in the box and trickles into the final holding barrel, the blue one.

The final holding barrel has another oil pump hanging in it, this one to run fast. I hold the fuel here until there is room in the engine tank, the heated and blanketed horizontal one.

From the engine tank, the fuel goes through a FUEL PRO pre-filter/water trap, then to the engine. It's a dandy filter and a lot easier to service than the ones in the engine, and I've had to service them a lot up to present.

At the engine filter there is a modified filter head that allows the switch between diesel for starting and shutting down, and the WVO for running. (I've posted this picture before.) The diesel comes from yet another tank and is fed past the engine system with a furnace fuel pump and separate filter.

I put a big fuel pressure gauge on the wall so I can see it from across the shop, quite necessary during the development of the system. The last pic is of the output from the centrifuge--4 gal/hour--about twice what the engine uses or about the rate a small dog could pee.

I've been two years at trial-and-error. My wife looked at the stuff I called "tar" and said, "I know what that stuff is. It's starch. Fry cookers are used for french fries and breaded meats and fishes. What you've been dealing with is paste!" I believe she's right. The stuff sure plugged filters in no time at all.

Now the system is on line, working every day, cutting my electric bill and is reliable. Many thanks to all the guys here that helped me put it together. We are THERE!!
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Mon, Feb 4, 2013 9:39 AM
ccjersey
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Cool!

Nice to get the bugs out in the end.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Mon, Feb 4, 2013 12:02 PM
drujinin
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Reply to ccjersey:
Cool!

Nice to get the bugs out in the end.
If since we worked the bugs out of the electrical metering, if you have been running? I figured seen as you hadn't posted any concerns since almost last year (seems that long). I figured either its working or you had given up.
Glad to see it all seems like its working fine now!
Jeff
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Mon, Feb 4, 2013 8:01 PM
eric in gilroy
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Reply to drujinin:
If since we worked the bugs out of the electrical metering, if you have been running? I figured seen as you hadn't posted any concerns since almost last year (seems that long). I figured either its working or you had given up.
Glad to see it all seems like its working fine now!
Jeff
how much cheaper is the fuel?
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Mon, Feb 4, 2013 8:08 PM
Jack
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Reply to eric in gilroy:
how much cheaper is the fuel?
Hi drujinin and CCJersey,

I ran a short season last winter, fought filters the whole time. I bought the centrifuge bowl last spring but encountered the mother of all honey-do jobs before I could get the machinery built. Momma Bear pointed out that she'd waited 30 years for a rebuild in the kitchen and I had to agree that the place sure needed some serious repair, so I dove in last March. One thing lead to another, mostly screw-ups by previous contractors. We wound up stripping it out to the framing and repairing a lot of the framing that had been cut out in ways you wouldn't believe. Anyway, I built kitchen until some time in November and then started on my fuel system.

Some times you just have to stop and do the necessary stuff, like keeping your house from falling into the basement! You are right, I didn't do a thing for nine months but give up? NEVER!

Eric in Gilroy, you have to consider a lot of things. The fuel is free but I have to go get it. Transportation isn't free. Then you have to consider to what use you are going to put this free energy. My big old house was taking about 1500 gal of diesel oil/winter for heat. That had just become unaffordable.

This system heats my shop directly from the engine radiator, exhaust pipe, water pipes, etc. and what heat leaks out goes up--directly into my daughters apartment over my shop, cuts the electric heat bill there. The generation goes to my house, now converted to electric heat. The extra, some even when we are heating but a lot when we are not, goes onto the grid and is deducted, Watt for Watt, from my three-phase electric bill. So you see, I use every bit of the energy this thing converts. If you are going to use the motive force but discard the heat, you will get about 1/3 the benefit that I am getting.

I built the whole thing from second-hand and junk pieces. I have maybe $4,000 into the machinery, but I had to shell out for a third transformer on the pole out front before they could allow generation. That was another $5,700 or there abouts. So with my ideal situation for use of this fuel, it will be a few years at current fuel prices before it goes into the black. But do you want to bet on stable fuel prices?

Then of course you have to maintain the machinery and operate it. How much is your time worth? I'm mostly retired. It's free fuel, but there's no such thing as free, lunch or anything else.

Jack
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Tue, Feb 5, 2013 10:25 AM
drujinin
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Reply to Jack:
Hi drujinin and CCJersey,

I ran a short season last winter, fought filters the whole time. I bought the centrifuge bowl last spring but encountered the mother of all honey-do jobs before I could get the machinery built. Momma Bear pointed out that she'd waited 30 years for a rebuild in the kitchen and I had to agree that the place sure needed some serious repair, so I dove in last March. One thing lead to another, mostly screw-ups by previous contractors. We wound up stripping it out to the framing and repairing a lot of the framing that had been cut out in ways you wouldn't believe. Anyway, I built kitchen until some time in November and then started on my fuel system.

Some times you just have to stop and do the necessary stuff, like keeping your house from falling into the basement! You are right, I didn't do a thing for nine months but give up? NEVER!

Eric in Gilroy, you have to consider a lot of things. The fuel is free but I have to go get it. Transportation isn't free. Then you have to consider to what use you are going to put this free energy. My big old house was taking about 1500 gal of diesel oil/winter for heat. That had just become unaffordable.

This system heats my shop directly from the engine radiator, exhaust pipe, water pipes, etc. and what heat leaks out goes up--directly into my daughters apartment over my shop, cuts the electric heat bill there. The generation goes to my house, now converted to electric heat. The extra, some even when we are heating but a lot when we are not, goes onto the grid and is deducted, Watt for Watt, from my three-phase electric bill. So you see, I use every bit of the energy this thing converts. If you are going to use the motive force but discard the heat, you will get about 1/3 the benefit that I am getting.

I built the whole thing from second-hand and junk pieces. I have maybe $4,000 into the machinery, but I had to shell out for a third transformer on the pole out front before they could allow generation. That was another $5,700 or there abouts. So with my ideal situation for use of this fuel, it will be a few years at current fuel prices before it goes into the black. But do you want to bet on stable fuel prices?

Then of course you have to maintain the machinery and operate it. How much is your time worth? I'm mostly retired. It's free fuel, but there's no such thing as free, lunch or anything else.

Jack
I am running 3 megawatt gensets for 8 hours costing $5000 in fuel.
So if Jacks' heating cost is 1500 gallons times $3.60 (ave) equals $5400.
Then he should pay off his purchases in heat savings in a minimum of 3 years.
Realistically probably 7 years but hey who is counting?
WVO is awesome as long as you are not paying for it.
Some places are getting smart and charging for it.

Jack is a true pioneer and expert in practical WVO application and use!
When I first started reading his Threads on engine rebuilding, then the direction he was heading in Power Generation, I thought he was nuts! By following his research and application, I came to realize that he knows way more about WVO than anyone else! His system is a long term investment, not some tree hugger driving a VW across the US once, then never heard from again. Jacks' system is monitored here on this Forum for dependability and performance by everyone. He has thus refused to "Throw in the Towel" thus proving his research works based on the dependability of his systems!

Jeff
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Wed, Feb 6, 2013 12:18 AM
Jack
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Reply to drujinin:
I am running 3 megawatt gensets for 8 hours costing $5000 in fuel.
So if Jacks' heating cost is 1500 gallons times $3.60 (ave) equals $5400.
Then he should pay off his purchases in heat savings in a minimum of 3 years.
Realistically probably 7 years but hey who is counting?
WVO is awesome as long as you are not paying for it.
Some places are getting smart and charging for it.

Jack is a true pioneer and expert in practical WVO application and use!
When I first started reading his Threads on engine rebuilding, then the direction he was heading in Power Generation, I thought he was nuts! By following his research and application, I came to realize that he knows way more about WVO than anyone else! His system is a long term investment, not some tree hugger driving a VW across the US once, then never heard from again. Jacks' system is monitored here on this Forum for dependability and performance by everyone. He has thus refused to "Throw in the Towel" thus proving his research works based on the dependability of his systems!

Jeff
Thanks for the kind words, Jeff. This thing is better than I thought it was. I thought I was producing 19-20 kW. The electrician told me today that I'm doing a whole lot better than that. Seems I left a factor out of my calculations. He came up with 33.2 kW sustained and told me to cut it back. The motor has a service factor of 1.25 and I've been running at about 1.20! This all came to light when I went to consult with him on copper from the motor to the contactor, replacing the aluminum. The Al runs for about two weeks and then goes up in smoke. The starting load is clear off scale on the ammeter.

Anyway, I'm down for half a day Thursday to connect the copper and stop frying the ends off my motor leads. Also cut down to 75 Amp today, or 1.12 of the service factor. The D2 engine has been running at 44.5 HP+ mech inefficiency at around 1550 RPM and doing it easily. Apparently it's a better engine than I thought it was too.
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Wed, Feb 6, 2013 12:00 PM
ccjersey
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I am guessing you were multiplying volts x amps single phase. 80 amps x 240 volts =19,200 VA or 19.2 kVA.

Your electrician calculated it as 3 phase 19.2 kVA x 1.732 = 33.25 kVA. Better, but this is not an accurate measure of kW. KW (real power) will always be less than kVA (apparent power) in your setup. You still have to calculate power factor which is unknown without a power meter. I think the easiest and most accurate way to measure power output (Watts) is to turn off the house loads and read the utility meter after an hour or some other period.

However, the amps on the lines (apparent power) is what is burning up your wiring, not just the watts (real power) part. The real power part of that plus inefficiencies is what burns fuel and makes heat in your D3400.

You mentioned aluminum and I assume the motor leads are copper, so the dissimilar metals may be part of the problem, especially at high amperage. There are methods of making that connection without letting the copper contact the aluminum as well as special greases to protect it. The one I have used is a special split bolt that has a divider between the two wires. The REA linemen use crimp splices that do the same thing.

Good luck with your rewiring!
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Feb 6, 2013 8:57 PM
drujinin
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Reply to ccjersey:
I am guessing you were multiplying volts x amps single phase. 80 amps x 240 volts =19,200 VA or 19.2 kVA.

Your electrician calculated it as 3 phase 19.2 kVA x 1.732 = 33.25 kVA. Better, but this is not an accurate measure of kW. KW (real power) will always be less than kVA (apparent power) in your setup. You still have to calculate power factor which is unknown without a power meter. I think the easiest and most accurate way to measure power output (Watts) is to turn off the house loads and read the utility meter after an hour or some other period.

However, the amps on the lines (apparent power) is what is burning up your wiring, not just the watts (real power) part. The real power part of that plus inefficiencies is what burns fuel and makes heat in your D3400.

You mentioned aluminum and I assume the motor leads are copper, so the dissimilar metals may be part of the problem, especially at high amperage. There are methods of making that connection without letting the copper contact the aluminum as well as special greases to protect it. The one I have used is a special split bolt that has a divider between the two wires. The REA linemen use crimp splices that do the same thing.

Good luck with your rewiring!
What size AL wire are you running that is "going up in smoke"?
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Wed, Feb 6, 2013 11:14 PM
Jack
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Reply to drujinin:
What size AL wire are you running that is "going up in smoke"?
You got it. The motor leads are copper and the wire in is #2 Al. I had a set screw lug on the Al, made for Al, and copper crimp-on on each of the motor leads, held together with a brass bolt. I used a recommended "grease" for the Al connections.

First big bang left the crimp-ons intact but burned the end off the Al wire. It damaged the Cu leads in the process. On Sunday morning a week ago I cobbled it back together with a brass split bolt and lots of "grease" to get going, and left it open so I could watch it. On Monday it popped again and I cleaned and reset the split bolt. I'm running again today.

I will pull new #3 Cu wire from the contactor to the motor tonight. Thurs morning I have an industrial electrician coming to make the connection with the best parts available. Then in the event that it doesn't work, he guarantees.

The big load is in starting. If I can get it started I'm good for the day. I also cut down to 75 Amps this morning, still 112% of nameplate rating but within the service factor.

And you are dead on, ccjersey. I forgot about the sq root of 3!
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Thu, Feb 7, 2013 3:07 AM
drujinin
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Reply to Jack:
You got it. The motor leads are copper and the wire in is #2 Al. I had a set screw lug on the Al, made for Al, and copper crimp-on on each of the motor leads, held together with a brass bolt. I used a recommended "grease" for the Al connections.

First big bang left the crimp-ons intact but burned the end off the Al wire. It damaged the Cu leads in the process. On Sunday morning a week ago I cobbled it back together with a brass split bolt and lots of "grease" to get going, and left it open so I could watch it. On Monday it popped again and I cleaned and reset the split bolt. I'm running again today.

I will pull new #3 Cu wire from the contactor to the motor tonight. Thurs morning I have an industrial electrician coming to make the connection with the best parts available. Then in the event that it doesn't work, he guarantees.

The big load is in starting. If I can get it started I'm good for the day. I also cut down to 75 Amps this morning, still 112% of nameplate rating but within the service factor.

And you are dead on, ccjersey. I forgot about the sq root of 3!
Researching the possibility of the Power Factor being lower than you think which would give you a KVARS value. Looking into "back EMF" which maybe distorting the waveforms giving inaccurate meter readings.
Last is Harmonics, we have had a few water cooler discussions but nothing solid yet.
May need to get a "Data Recorder" on there to see what is happening????
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Thu, Feb 7, 2013 10:24 AM
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