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Surprise! Fifteen with carb troubles!

Surprise! Fifteen with carb troubles!

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tailseat15
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I need some help to get my topseat fifteen running. I rebuilt the carburetor on it with one of the Campbell kits. The carb I was using was a low-top all brass Ensign pony carb, the one with the choke lever on the wrong side. It ran after rebuilding, but the bottom cork/rubber gasket (below the venturi block) was a little too thick, and when squeezed the little pieces of cork would float out and plug up passages in the carb, here's a photo:
[attachment=20474]DSCF0092.jpg[/attachment]


So I removed the old cork gasket and cut a new one from 1/32" rubber fiber material. I thought it would work, and seemed to be the right thickness as it looks like it was compressed some, after I removed the top to re-inspect. But still no running. The engine is acting like its not getting any gas. Good spark and timing, and it used to run nicely.

Well trying to get this tractor running and tired of messing with the carb so I thought I'd borrow the carb from my orchard 15 (rebuilt at the same time, with a Campbell kit also) and try it.
[attachment=20475]DSCF0091.jpg[/attachment]

This is a correct, pot-metal Ensign with the tall top. I tried it first with the kit components, and no fuel getting to engine. So, I removed the bottom gasket and installed a paper type gasket, and cleaned the passages of the carb out well in case the cork pieces may have plugged it up like the other carb. Re-assembled and it ran, but only for maybe 30 seconds and then died.
By now I am so tired from hand-cranking that I feel dizzy. I cleaned the carb a couple more times to be sure, and got it to run again but only for a short time again (less than a minute). So by then, I decided to quit for the night and seek help here.

So what I know now-
1. I like the sound of my 15, and want to get it running right.
2. I hate these little carbs!
3. I open the drain on the strainer, and get a decent stream of gas out, so I think my supply of gas is ok (not plugged) I am also using an inline fuel filter, and have cleaned out the tank also.

Please help!!!
Oh, and one more pic of the patient:
[attachment=20476]DSCF0093.jpg[/attachment]
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Sun, Nov 10, 2013 2:43 PM
Pat in WI
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tailseat15,

My TEN was the same way. I used dense paper gaskets and had to come up with the right combination of thicknesses for BOTH the top and bottom of that pedestal. If there is the slightest gap at either end...you will not get fuel to pull through. The fact that you do get it to run for a short while means you are close. But make small changes. Going too thick, you risk damaging the pot metal top. The stack up above and below the pedestal should hold the top cover slightly off of the main body gasket...sort of a preload. When you tighten down the screws that hold the cover to the main body...use the cross over method like tightening lug nuts. Bring that cover down easy and even. When I got my gasket thicknesses right...I haven't had a problem since.

I know what you mean...when you have starting issues on these tractors...your arms can start to look like Popeye the Sailors!

I try not to use cork at all anymore around gasoline. This modern day stuff we call gas seems to attack anything cork.

Good Luck Sir!

Pat
Pat in WI
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Mon, Nov 11, 2013 6:57 PM
tailseat15
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Reply to Pat in WI:
tailseat15,

My TEN was the same way. I used dense paper gaskets and had to come up with the right combination of thicknesses for BOTH the top and bottom of that pedestal. If there is the slightest gap at either end...you will not get fuel to pull through. The fact that you do get it to run for a short while means you are close. But make small changes. Going too thick, you risk damaging the pot metal top. The stack up above and below the pedestal should hold the top cover slightly off of the main body gasket...sort of a preload. When you tighten down the screws that hold the cover to the main body...use the cross over method like tightening lug nuts. Bring that cover down easy and even. When I got my gasket thicknesses right...I haven't had a problem since.

I know what you mean...when you have starting issues on these tractors...your arms can start to look like Popeye the Sailors!

I try not to use cork at all anymore around gasoline. This modern day stuff we call gas seems to attack anything cork.

Good Luck Sir!

Pat
Thanks Pat. The description makes sense about tightening the top cover and gasket thickness. See, I was tightening the top cover, and the original cork bottom gasket was too thick because the top cover gasket was loose, and leaked gas, even after the top cover screws were tight. I called Mr. Campbell to ask him and he said to tighten the top some more. Well I pulled the threads for the 4 top cover screws in my brass carb and now they still work, but the threads are a little messed up, and the gasket was definitely too thick for the venturi block. I am also worried I warped the top cover when I did this.

I have been trying to find some rubber or neoprene type material to make this gasket that is about 3/32" thick, with some good compression/give to it to help provide a good seal, and not make the top cover warp upon tightening.

I also thought about an o-ring with the correct cross section dimension would work also maybe?
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Mon, Nov 11, 2013 11:53 PM
tailseat15
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Reply to tailseat15:
Thanks Pat. The description makes sense about tightening the top cover and gasket thickness. See, I was tightening the top cover, and the original cork bottom gasket was too thick because the top cover gasket was loose, and leaked gas, even after the top cover screws were tight. I called Mr. Campbell to ask him and he said to tighten the top some more. Well I pulled the threads for the 4 top cover screws in my brass carb and now they still work, but the threads are a little messed up, and the gasket was definitely too thick for the venturi block. I am also worried I warped the top cover when I did this.

I have been trying to find some rubber or neoprene type material to make this gasket that is about 3/32" thick, with some good compression/give to it to help provide a good seal, and not make the top cover warp upon tightening.

I also thought about an o-ring with the correct cross section dimension would work also maybe?
Oh and plan B, I also ordered a new updraft carburetor that I hope to build an adapter for. I don't know if it will work, but I hope it does. I have read of some of these tractors having had different carbs adapted to them. At this point I don't care if its not original, I just want to get the darned thing running and also not dripping gas everywhere.:rant:
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Mon, Nov 11, 2013 11:57 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to tailseat15:
Oh and plan B, I also ordered a new updraft carburetor that I hope to build an adapter for. I don't know if it will work, but I hope it does. I have read of some of these tractors having had different carbs adapted to them. At this point I don't care if its not original, I just want to get the darned thing running and also not dripping gas everywhere.:rant:
Try the Buna-N cork Blend #96165K38 at McMaster Carr.
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Tue, Nov 12, 2013 12:09 AM
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