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Submerged Cat Marine 12 Cylinder

Submerged Cat Marine 12 Cylinder

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7upuller
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Hey Gang,

I was asked by a friend to come help with a Sunken 65 foot Tug. It has a Cat Marine 12 Cylinder with 300 hours on it. The guy called it a 297 Cat??? Can a submerged engine be salvaged? It's been under a month. They have had the marine salvage divers float up the Tug three different times and have lost it each time. $100,000 later it's worse now than the first two times. Now it's on her side. It's cabled to a dock in a Harbor and down slopes on a 1-1/2:1 8' to 40' deep.

Next question, on big winches, will the winch pull the rated design pull? It's a big hyster D-8 winch (Mary Ann)? I think I saw 120,000 lb pull, I'll go look up some records today. I can anchor the Mary Ann nicely against what looked like a 14x 138 beam. I can lock that beam against the piling that goes 30' deep and is locked back with anchors and poured in a concrete deck and slab. So I've got the tractor won't move thingy down. [attachment=32299]image.jpg[/attachment][attachment=32300]image.jpg[/attachment]

Does weight of a ship change in water? It's an old wood tug. Isn't it lighter in water?

I've got an idea on how to assist. I feel sorry for the owner, he took on this ship to help someone and now got caught with all this debt, letters from the Cities Lawyer, and The Cost Guard on his tail.
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 8:34 PM
restore49
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Lifting the weight of boat + water + mud ? Bob
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 8:59 PM
Deas Plant.
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Reply to restore49:
Lifting the weight of boat + water + mud ? Bob
Hi, Glen.
Int'restin'. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I get the impression that you are planning on dragging the boat to shore rather than a dead lift. If so, the weight of the drag will increase fairly dramatically as more and more of the boat comes out of the water. That can be gotten around by pulling said boat until the drag becomes pretty heavy, by which time at least some of the boat hull will hopefully be out of the water. Pause the pull, allow some of the water within the hull to drain out or pump it out, and then resume the pull. Repeat if necessary.

In 1971, I spent 7 months operating a D9G that had been under sea water twice a day for 3 months, from about 10 hours on the clock, back in 1966 - 30 foot tidal rise and fall, North-west coast of Western Australia - still with the original motor, which had been dried out, checked out and repaired as necessary after salvage. I still rate that machine the 'gruntiest' D9G that I have ever operated. It BROKE 3 medium length 1971-style Cat ripper boots while ripping ironstone cap 2 feet to 6 feet thick.

Hope this helps. Happy salvaging. Photos and video, please, Boss?

Just my 0.02.

You have a wonderful day. Best wishes. Deas Plant.

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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 9:48 PM
dpendzic
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Reply to restore49:
Lifting the weight of boat + water + mud ? Bob
the weight of a submerged object is lessened by the weight of the displaced water of its volume---but at the surface and above the water inside adds to the weight. if you can get the gunwales just above the surface and all holes plugged then you can then start pumping the water out to lighten the load.
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 9:56 PM
josh
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Reply to Deas Plant.:
Hi, Glen.
Int'restin'. Please correct me if I'm wrong but I get the impression that you are planning on dragging the boat to shore rather than a dead lift. If so, the weight of the drag will increase fairly dramatically as more and more of the boat comes out of the water. That can be gotten around by pulling said boat until the drag becomes pretty heavy, by which time at least some of the boat hull will hopefully be out of the water. Pause the pull, allow some of the water within the hull to drain out or pump it out, and then resume the pull. Repeat if necessary.

In 1971, I spent 7 months operating a D9G that had been under sea water twice a day for 3 months, from about 10 hours on the clock, back in 1966 - 30 foot tidal rise and fall, North-west coast of Western Australia - still with the original motor, which had been dried out, checked out and repaired as necessary after salvage. I still rate that machine the 'gruntiest' D9G that I have ever operated. It BROKE 3 medium length 1971-style Cat ripper boots while ripping ironstone cap 2 feet to 6 feet thick.

Hope this helps. Happy salvaging. Photos and video, please, Boss?

Just my 0.02.
Glen,

When the boat is in the water it weighs very little and will be easy to drag, I assume it is in the bay or some tidal water? The best way to get an old boat or other heavy object like that is to pull it at a high tide. I think your D8 will probably drag it even when it is out of the water and drained, but if not the method is to pull it as far as you can at high tide, then let let the tide go out and be ready with your chainsaws, crane etc and be ready to salvage what you can.
I used to use long pieces of elevator cable for that task, it doesn't take much when they are in the water, once they are out sometimes the old wood boats can break apart when pulling on them.

Also after the tide has gone out and the boat is draining, if you are going to pull it further, that is the time to re cable with larger line and a better bite on the boat.

If the boat has sunk in salt or brackish water, it is best to flush the engine with lots of fresh water before drying and cleaning.

Josh
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 10:06 PM
ronm
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Reply to dpendzic:
the weight of a submerged object is lessened by the weight of the displaced water of its volume---but at the surface and above the water inside adds to the weight. if you can get the gunwales just above the surface and all holes plugged then you can then start pumping the water out to lighten the load.
Was the engine running when it went under? if not, it's probably OK. if it was, it probably has one or more bent rods...I heard of a 4020 JD that went off a culvert into a stream, sucked water into the engine...hydraulic locked a cylinder, bent a rod & blew the head gasket.
A friend of mine bought a D9 that had been under water in a gravel pit when the river broke into it overnight-all they could see was the rain cap when they found it...got it for scrap iron price, drained & flushed all the boxes & put her to work, & he claimed that Cat made him more money than any dozer he ever owned...it was totally milked out when he sent it down the road, though...
As for the winch thing, no idea...
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 10:08 PM
BillWalter
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Reply to ronm:
Was the engine running when it went under? if not, it's probably OK. if it was, it probably has one or more bent rods...I heard of a 4020 JD that went off a culvert into a stream, sucked water into the engine...hydraulic locked a cylinder, bent a rod & blew the head gasket.
A friend of mine bought a D9 that had been under water in a gravel pit when the river broke into it overnight-all they could see was the rain cap when they found it...got it for scrap iron price, drained & flushed all the boxes & put her to work, & he claimed that Cat made him more money than any dozer he ever owned...it was totally milked out when he sent it down the road, though...
As for the winch thing, no idea...
12 cylinder and you gave a number of 297? Probably a D 397. 5 3/4 bore, made back in the 50's. First ones were Roots blown and later, 1955 they were turbocharged.
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 10:37 PM
janmeermans
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Reply to dpendzic:
the weight of a submerged object is lessened by the weight of the displaced water of its volume---but at the surface and above the water inside adds to the weight. if you can get the gunwales just above the surface and all holes plugged then you can then start pumping the water out to lighten the load.



Glen,

Dan is spot on with his post. You don't say if the tug is wooden or steel. If wooden, I would think some seams opened up causing the sinking. As he says, when it breaks the surface and the only water coming in would be from the seams leaking, then using a pump with a volume larger than the incoming flow should float it until you can stem the flow. Tarps pulled under the hull to cover the leaks from the outside may be helpful.

If it is a steel boat, then the leaks are probably associated with the shaft seal or intake for cooling water, head discharge or other hull penetrations. That would be easier to isolate the leaks assuming the rest of the hull is sound.

I would think the engine will be fine after obvious cleaning, etc.

I know what you say about the costs of recovery. I just read a story about a 43' sailboat that was in a marina in Crescent City when the Tsunami hit a few years back and was swept out of the harbor into the ocean. The Coast Guard found it and actually boarded it but then left it only to have it wrecked on the beach. Now the owner is shackled with all the costs of getting the boat debris off the beach. The government mandates that owners are responsible for all the costs for beached or sunken boats but of course, takes no responsibility for their actions or inactions (in this case, the Coasties) in the event. The government is broken IMHO.

Best of luck with it.

Jan
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 10:49 PM
Oil Slick
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Reply to janmeermans:



Glen,

Dan is spot on with his post. You don't say if the tug is wooden or steel. If wooden, I would think some seams opened up causing the sinking. As he says, when it breaks the surface and the only water coming in would be from the seams leaking, then using a pump with a volume larger than the incoming flow should float it until you can stem the flow. Tarps pulled under the hull to cover the leaks from the outside may be helpful.

If it is a steel boat, then the leaks are probably associated with the shaft seal or intake for cooling water, head discharge or other hull penetrations. That would be easier to isolate the leaks assuming the rest of the hull is sound.

I would think the engine will be fine after obvious cleaning, etc.

I know what you say about the costs of recovery. I just read a story about a 43' sailboat that was in a marina in Crescent City when the Tsunami hit a few years back and was swept out of the harbor into the ocean. The Coast Guard found it and actually boarded it but then left it only to have it wrecked on the beach. Now the owner is shackled with all the costs of getting the boat debris off the beach. The government mandates that owners are responsible for all the costs for beached or sunken boats but of course, takes no responsibility for their actions or inactions (in this case, the Coasties) in the event. The government is broken IMHO.

Best of luck with it.

Jan
Fresh water preserves and salt water deterates.

Try to winch the old wooden tug from multiple points to prevent from breaking it apart. If it does break apart can you be held responsible for the rest of the clean up?
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 11:19 PM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Oil Slick:
Fresh water preserves and salt water deterates.

Try to winch the old wooden tug from multiple points to prevent from breaking it apart. If it does break apart can you be held responsible for the rest of the clean up?
I wouldn't touch it!!! Reeks of liability issues. Especially in the land of the "Sue"
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Sun, Nov 29, 2015 11:33 PM
7upuller
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Reply to Oil Slick:
Fresh water preserves and salt water deterates.

Try to winch the old wooden tug from multiple points to prevent from breaking it apart. If it does break apart can you be held responsible for the rest of the clean up?
Hey OilSlick,

They owner wants it demo'ed. He wants it gone. I was asked if an excavator good reach it and demo in place. I think I can pull it out and get it up on the dock. Even if I drag it to the side of pier it would make the removal much easier. They have a 40 ton P&H rough terrain crane there. They have some steel beams available. There are two Pipe Piles about 16" in diameter some 16' apart on edge of dock that are 2' above the dock with huge cletes on them to tie cargo ships to. In between the pipe piles are a solid sheet pile wall. Along the top of the wall is a 24" tall beam used as a pile cap. This beam is tie'd back with anchors and poured in a very thick industrial slab. I intend to place a steel beam on top of the concrete slab and up against the cletes and pipe piles. We can then back Mary Ann's tracks up against this beam as a stop. We will take two 30' long beams and cut a notch so the beams lay into water and lock up against the beam on top of concrete pier. We will then weld these two beams in place as long ramps to the rock lined channel. Two hard hat divers will sling cables under ship and attach to the output shaft of the prop. I hear it's very large prop that weighs some 4 tons alone. The plane is to drag it closer to the dock. If we get lucky, it may climb the beams. The energy on the beams and Mary Ann's tracks all coming together locked on the piles. If we are lucky enough to climb the ramped beams, I'll pull Mary Ann ahead 30 more feet. We will then place two more 30' beams locked against the back stop built. I'll back the tracks up against these extensions of the back stop and pull again locking the tracks off. If the old Tug is just dragged to the edge of pier it will make demo operations easier and be a huge help. If Mary Ann can get The Tug out of the Water, She will be in her Work Clothes feeling Proud. Owner is playing with my thought process and deciding on the $ and risks involved. I'll keep you posted. I have no Risk on the Tug or Operations, just the care and upkeep of Mary Ann only.
Glen
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Mon, Nov 30, 2015 12:02 AM
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