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Stuck idler on cat D6B

Stuck idler on cat D6B

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sclan
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Hello caterpillar gods, :hail:long time no speak.
My old girl has been working fine but I recently had a link taken out of the tracks as I was at the end of my adjustment and the grease seal was not holding pressure anymore so I had that replaced at the same time.
When I got it back and after a short while working it i noticed the track very loose.
Well the idiler is all the way back and stuck there really good.

The grease tensioner is working fine because as I add more grease the spring moved back from its stops so it is exerting pressure on the idler forward.
I loosened the 4 bolts that add pressure to the slide plates and I even raised the front off the ground and really came on to it with the backhoe and chain around the forks and still not a budge :noidea:

Is it possible the slide plates were installed wrong or maybe they slid back too far and dropped behind some obstruuction?
Any ideas would be great or if someone can send me a diagram of how to disassemble it that would be great. Maybe if I loosen off everything it might be enough to get it moving and then weld a small plate so it wont go back that far again.

Help oh cat gods🤢
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Thu, Jul 3, 2014 5:07 PM
Old Magnet
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Not likely you over extended anything. What usually happens is the bearing collar has moved from a very worn location of the wear strip to a less worn spot in combination with some arching of the adjuster and bearing/forks thus putting things in a bind.
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Thu, Jul 3, 2014 11:00 PM
sclan
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Not likely you over extended anything. What usually happens is the bearing collar has moved from a very worn location of the wear strip to a less worn spot in combination with some arching of the adjuster and bearing/forks thus putting things in a bind.
So whats the best wat to get it out of the bind?
I was thinking a single stick of dynomite
Lol
Any suggestions, its really stuck
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Fri, Jul 4, 2014 4:17 AM
Old 3T lover
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Reply to sclan:
So whats the best wat to get it out of the bind?
I was thinking a single stick of dynomite
Lol
Any suggestions, its really stuck
Got a picture of your idler? Is it like what was on early 9U D6s or a later version?

Loosen the 4 bolts on each side of the idler that holds the guide plates. Loosen the 2 bolts on top and remove the shims if the guide plates have them. Loosen the large bolts in the front that hold the block that allows you to raise or lower the idler for draft work or blade work if it's that type. Now drive forward to place all the track slack at the top and less pressure on the idler.....with the spring compressed by trying to tighten the track with grease gun, get large hammer and beat on the idler forks....if nothing else, it will relieve "your" tension.
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Fri, Jul 4, 2014 5:20 AM
sclan
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
Got a picture of your idler? Is it like what was on early 9U D6s or a later version?

Loosen the 4 bolts on each side of the idler that holds the guide plates. Loosen the 2 bolts on top and remove the shims if the guide plates have them. Loosen the large bolts in the front that hold the block that allows you to raise or lower the idler for draft work or blade work if it's that type. Now drive forward to place all the track slack at the top and less pressure on the idler.....with the spring compressed by trying to tighten the track with grease gun, get large hammer and beat on the idler forks....if nothing else, it will relieve "your" tension.
Thanks for your reply
It is a solid idler and the sn of the tractor is 44a11076 so it should be the new type.
I will get a picture of it once i blast it off with the pressure washer a bit.
Anyone got a diagram of a d6b idler, just so i know where to put all the parts if ir all blows into pieces from all my relieving pressure :frusty:
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Fri, Jul 4, 2014 5:30 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to Old 3T lover:
Got a picture of your idler? Is it like what was on early 9U D6s or a later version?

Loosen the 4 bolts on each side of the idler that holds the guide plates. Loosen the 2 bolts on top and remove the shims if the guide plates have them. Loosen the large bolts in the front that hold the block that allows you to raise or lower the idler for draft work or blade work if it's that type. Now drive forward to place all the track slack at the top and less pressure on the idler.....with the spring compressed by trying to tighten the track with grease gun, get large hammer and beat on the idler forks....if nothing else, it will relieve "your" tension.
Set up is similar to the 8/9U D6's

Try loosening the 4 bolts that clamp the bearing/yokes to the push rod. Back off the spring tension bolts on the top of the bearing/yokes (4 on each idler).

Loosen the side plates if they look like they are binding.

This and old 3T's info should get them moving but it is most likely worn wear strips, collar flange and recoil spring guides that are causing the problem.
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Fri, Jul 4, 2014 5:35 AM
sclan
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Set up is similar to the 8/9U D6's

Try loosening the 4 bolts that clamp the bearing/yokes to the push rod. Back off the spring tension bolts on the top of the bearing/yokes (4 on each idler).

Loosen the side plates if they look like they are binding.

This and old 3T's info should get them moving but it is most likely worn wear strips, collar flange and recoil spring guides that are causing the problem.
ah, yes, I see now what old magnet and you were referencing.
Makes sense to me now, thick head sometimes :doh:
maybe a more logical approach is in order now that I have all the facts.
Although, aimlessly yanking and smashing at it with the backhoe did have a small portion of satisfaction :tsk:

Thanks again caterpillar gods for your help 👍
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Fri, Jul 4, 2014 6:48 AM
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