Stuck engine

Welcome. I believe your D6B has a d333 engine, the for runner to the 3306.

As far as running a stuck engine, you certainly could get lucky and be fine, but I know if I tried it something would fail catastrophically. I suppose it depends on how badly it was stuck. At the very least take the valve cover off and check for stuck valves and see how much crud is sitting on the overheads.

Another thing that’s helpful is to edit your profile and include your location, could be there is another member close by that could help. A D6B is a wonderful tractor, good luck with yours!!

Bruce P.

Thank you, ccjersey and Bruce P. Once I learn what is required to re-install the fuel injectors, I will give it a try, taking the precautions suggested. The 3306 service manual indicates only a torque specification, but the parts book I have for the D6B calls for seals. Any suggestions on lubrication for the top end?

The brake fluid recommended is if there is water (in my opinion). If no water in the cylinders, then I would stick to petroleum products. One of the most effective (and cheap in large quantities) solvent concoctions you can find is a mixture of 1/2 acetone and 1/2 automatic transmission fluid. Costs about $5 a quart.

The seals your book mentions are just dust/dirt seals and are not required to run the engine. I would try to find them from an aftermarket source if possible. I went by my nearest CAT dealer a while back while I was in the city for other business. Figured I would save waiting on those seals being shipped in from another source. Not only did they not have enough of either one to do a 4 cylinder engine, when I went to pay for the ones they had, I was darned glad they only had a few! Needless to say i didn't have them order the rest of them in.

Remove the injectors, keeping them clean and in order so you know where they came from for diagnostic purposes and then you have ready (though small bore) access to the cylinders to put in whatever you want. If you want bigger access you can drain the cooling system and remove the precombustion chambers. This will leave about a 1" opening that you could suction out liquids etc. You will absolutely need to replace the precombustion chamber seals both top and bottom. The bottom PC chamber copper washer seals can be reused if necessay by heating to a dull red and dropping into water to anneal them. However, you may need to put each one back in the original hole so the glow plugs align properly and do not interfere with the injector lines. It takes a special splined tool to remove the PC chambers.

Thanks again to all of you. I have a couple more questions, but will need to get back later with a photo to clarify.

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I was able to start the engine today, after several hours of effort over a few days. Would like to post video of it running, but haven't figured out how to do that.
Now I have the stuck steering clutch to deal with. I suppose that will require removal and disassembly. Any suggestions to try first?
Thanks for your help so far, and for any new suggestions.

That’s great!! Looks like a farm cat with a ccu on the back? Or is it a bee Gee hydraulic unit? At any rate if you can hook it up to something that will load it good ( like that scraper) you might get lucky and get the clutch to release. I’ve heard of driving around with the brake applied slightly to make some heat helps.

Are you by chance located in the PNW??

Good luck

BP.

That's a Cat CCU if my eyesight is true, maybe a 23 or 25. Uncle August, on tractors where the brake drum also contains the steering clutch pack, sometimes the clutch can be freed by riding the brake on that side until it's hot (meaning smoke pouring out of it HOT) with the clutch lever held back, and applying a heavy load, like you'd get from dropping that scraper bowl into the dirt a few times. I'm not familiar with how the steering and brakes are set up on your tractor so this technique may not apply.
If it does and it works, it can save disassembly etc.