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Stuck D2

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4D2Ken
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Well, Don came over yesterday to go clean out the creek as it is running all over the field. I had a bad feeling about this, but figured I didn't have a lot to lose. So, I started up my D2 with the blade and away we went. Don went to the lower corner of the field where the water from the creek was trying to dig a new channel, and once he got into the tall wet grass it was all over. The 'new channel' had about a three foot drop off and was just about as wide as the tracks are long, so Don approached it squarely and once the nose-heavy dozer dropped into the channel all he could do was go forward until the Cat was once again fairly level. Then the Cat started spinning the tracks and the clayish mud looked like grease with long strands of slick grass making life even more miserable.

Don tried to back out, but each time he tried to move the tracks just sank another inch; he was stuck! We ended up having to go and start another one of my
D2's and using a chain to pull the dozer loose. Lesson learned, we came back and drank a beer to cool off. I couldn't get any pictures of the actual stuck tractor but here are a couple shots to show just how muddy it was down in the swamp.

Don hates how fast the blade raises and lowers, so I was thinking of relocating the pivot point on the lever lower so that the movement of the lever opens the hydraulic valve a smaller distance. Anyone else have any thoughts on that? I could lengthen the pivot arm on the opposite end from the lever but that would require welding instead of just drilling a hole. Don also suggested lowering the hydraulic pressure to slow the blade down. It moves fast!
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dpendzic
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Welcome to the club!! your lucky you had another machine to pull it out. A few years ago my wife sunk my 941b in a swamp so the ground was level with the top of the tracks. Got it out by lifting the front of the machine with down pressure from the bucket and cutting and stuffing a 100 logs under the tracks--drove it forward and it pivoted up and then did the same to the rear of the tracks.
now i have 2 machines and they have pulled each other out numerous times.

My D2 blade moves fast too but i have gotten use to just moving the lever a little amount instead of all the way.
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drujinin
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Reply to dpendzic:
Welcome to the club!! your lucky you had another machine to pull it out. A few years ago my wife sunk my 941b in a swamp so the ground was level with the top of the tracks. Got it out by lifting the front of the machine with down pressure from the bucket and cutting and stuffing a 100 logs under the tracks--drove it forward and it pivoted up and then did the same to the rear of the tracks.
now i have 2 machines and they have pulled each other out numerous times.

My D2 blade moves fast too but i have gotten use to just moving the lever a little amount instead of all the way.
Most new machines have "fast" hydraulics compared to old machines. What I can do with an "old & slow" machine, I cannot do with a new machine. By the same token alot of new machine operators admit they can not run an old & slow machine.
Go figure!
My suggest is lower the pin, drilling a hole is easier!
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alganon
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Don hates how fast the blade raises and lowers, so I was thinking of relocating the pivot point on the lever lower so that the movement of the lever opens the hydraulic valve a smaller distance. Anyone else have any thoughts on that? I could lengthen the pivot arm on the opposite end from the lever but that would require welding instead of just drilling a hole. Don also suggested lowering the hydraulic pressure to slow the blade down. It moves fast![/QUOTE]

Has anyone tried installing a restrictor coupling in the hyd. line ? When I make a new attachment for my skid steer and it moves too fast I get a restrictor . I drill it out until I get the flow/speed I want . If you need to drill it to get more flow I found that less is better than more , apparently doubling the dia. quadruples flow . I have several that were too big !
Barry
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4D2Ken
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Reply to alganon:
Don hates how fast the blade raises and lowers, so I was thinking of relocating the pivot point on the lever lower so that the movement of the lever opens the hydraulic valve a smaller distance. Anyone else have any thoughts on that? I could lengthen the pivot arm on the opposite end from the lever but that would require welding instead of just drilling a hole. Don also suggested lowering the hydraulic pressure to slow the blade down. It moves fast![/QUOTE]

Has anyone tried installing a restrictor coupling in the hyd. line ? When I make a new attachment for my skid steer and it moves too fast I get a restrictor . I drill it out until I get the flow/speed I want . If you need to drill it to get more flow I found that less is better than more , apparently doubling the dia. quadruples flow . I have several that were too big !
Barry
Thanks for the tips guys. I think I will start by lowering the handle pivot point and see how the blade behaves. Another thing I dislike about this dozer is how front heavy the blade makes it. When you go to back up it, the rear rises and even in forward it hobby horses a lot. Short of putting a thousand pound counterweight on the back I suppose there is no solution for that.
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dpendzic
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Reply to 4D2Ken:
Thanks for the tips guys. I think I will start by lowering the handle pivot point and see how the blade behaves. Another thing I dislike about this dozer is how front heavy the blade makes it. When you go to back up it, the rear rises and even in forward it hobby horses a lot. Short of putting a thousand pound counterweight on the back I suppose there is no solution for that.


That is exactly what i did on my R2. Also there are solid larger diameter idlers that were used on blade machines.
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MARCOTEN
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Reply to dpendzic:


That is exactly what i did on my R2. Also there are solid larger diameter idlers that were used on blade machines.
cat has still this problem , (dont want to pick on my favorite brand but) the new electic D7E has it aswell, as cat now has extra counterweight for the back, it also runned to much on the front idlers when going in reverse
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dpendzic
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Reply to dpendzic:


That is exactly what i did on my R2. Also there are solid larger diameter idlers that were used on blade machines.


Exactly what i said--A counter weight helps tremendously and I think the larger diameter idlers help too--but that is a lot of work to change over to them-try the counter weight first.
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wimmera farmer
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Reply to dpendzic:


Exactly what i said--A counter weight helps tremendously and I think the larger diameter idlers help too--but that is a lot of work to change over to them-try the counter weight first.
I have to agree about the front idlers, small is not good for dozer work. Our D2 has them and it is a handfull to grade with. Worn out hydraulic pump doesn't help. My late uncle could do it, he had many hours of practice. Changing direction 90 deg helps a lot if the job allows.
The best most useful counterweight is rippers but that does not go well on a D2 the rear transmission case is not suitable to mount rippers.
cheers WF
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