Steering clutch wear and adjustment

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I'd appreciate any help you can give me concerning the steering clutches in my CAT22. They both work Ok, but I do not know if they are in need of relining. I have posted a couple photos. One shows the clutch pack with a measuring tape across it. Can you tell me if the clutch pack is nearing the end of life, or is there still plenty of wear left? The second photo is of the adjusters. It looks to me like there is little or no adjustment left. Is that right? Looking at the left adjuster I see that it is rear of where the right adjuster is, and it moves forward and back about .5". Does that indicate a worn bearing? If I need to have the clutches relined can you give me a recommendation of who can do the clutch packs for me? How hard is it to pull the clutch packs out? Thanks, Ray

[attachment=12610]DSC_0096 (2).jpg[/attachment][attachment=12609]DSC_0093 (3).jpg[/attachment]

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2F5209 CAT 22, 1967 E-Type Jaguar OTS, Trek 2300 road bike

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Tue, Mar 20, 2012 7:18 AM

bruce oz

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hello Ray ,the new stack thickness is 2'' 19/32'' and worn out is 2'' 1/4'' ,bruce oz

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Tue, Mar 20, 2012 7:38 AM

drujinin

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Reply to bruce oz:

hello Ray ,the new stack thickness is 2'' 19/32'' and worn out is 2'' 1/4'' ,bruce oz

Most guys get the bronze and steel clutch disks along with new spring sets from General Gear(?) I know there are alot of threads on this issue usually about D2's as they are notorious for stuck clutches usually with photo's and a description with how to disassemble.
It can be done with fairly simple tools, a good puller to pop it off, a simple spring compressor and use the brake drum to align the splines. You want to remove the brake drum to replace the seal and possibly bearing anyways, so use it in the re-assembly process.
Jeff

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Tue, Mar 20, 2012 6:01 PM

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Reply to drujinin:

Most guys get the bronze and steel clutch disks along with new spring sets from General Gear(?) I know there are alot of threads on this issue usually about D2's as they are notorious for stuck clutches usually with photo's and a description with how to disassemble.
It can be done with fairly simple tools, a good puller to pop it off, a simple spring compressor and use the brake drum to align the splines. You want to remove the brake drum to replace the seal and possibly bearing anyways, so use it in the re-assembly process.
Jeff

Thanks, Bruce & Jeff. It looks to me that both of my clutch packs are at or sightly above the 2-9/16" thickness, but I am guessing I should take them off and check on the left side bearings. I am still curious as to why there appears to be little or no adjustment left. What else can be worn to make it look like that? Ray

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2F5209 CAT 22, 1967 E-Type Jaguar OTS, Trek 2300 road bike

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Wed, Mar 21, 2012 1:11 AM

Mike Meyer

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Thanks, Bruce & Jeff. It looks to me that both of my clutch packs are at or sightly above the 2-9/16" thickness, but I am guessing I should take them off and check on the left side bearings. I am still curious as to why there appears to be little or no adjustment left. What else can be worn to make it look like that? Ray

Hello, have you tried adjusting your steering levers? If you look forward of your two bolts a few inches you will see the 2 nuts you tighten to adjust your levers, that should give you more room on those two bolts, there will be a split pin, or bit of wire securing those nuts.
regards
Mike

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Wed, Mar 21, 2012 2:00 AM

edb

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Reply to Mike Meyer:

Hello, have you tried adjusting your steering levers? If you look forward of your two bolts a few inches you will see the 2 nuts you tighten to adjust your levers, that should give you more room on those two bolts, there will be a split pin, or bit of wire securing those nuts.
regards
Mike

Hi Ray,
by the measurement you have given, your clutches have almost full service life left to wear out.
By your pic the adjustment screws are showing this to be so.
As the clutch wears the free travel is used up and, the adjuster screws have to be screwed towards the centre line of the machine, to give more free play, which then reduces further as the cluthches again wear further.
The freeplay diminshes as wear takes place and needs to be adjusted back by backing the screws out to re-introduce the necessary clearance--to put it another way it works backtofront to what we think it should.

One thing I see that is confusing and not standard, is the locknut at the end of the adjuster screw. Hope someone put it there to increase the area of contact on the small actuator lever pad ?? I do not think it is necessary and could be turned back along the bolt and snugged up against the yoke lever to act as an un-needed lock nut for the adjuster screw.

Hope this helps.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

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Wed, Mar 21, 2012 6:09 AM

[email protected]

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Reply to Mike Meyer:

Hello, have you tried adjusting your steering levers? If you look forward of your two bolts a few inches you will see the 2 nuts you tighten to adjust your levers, that should give you more room on those two bolts, there will be a split pin, or bit of wire securing those nuts.
regards
Mike

[quote="Mike Meyer"]Hello, have you tried adjusting your steering levers? If you look forward of your two bolts a few inches you will see the 2 nuts you tighten to adjust your levers, that should give you more room on those two bolts, there will be a split pin, or bit of wire securing those nuts.
regards
Mike[/quote]

Thanks, Mike for the suggestion. Right now I don't need to adjust the clutches, but will keep that in mind for the future. I was just concerned that the clutches must be worn. Checking the thicknesses however, indicates that they are fine. Both clutch packs are around 2 5/8" thick, which appears to be fine. While I have the final drives off I figured I'd ask if I need to do anything to the clutches. I am a little concerned, however, that there may be a bearing problem with the left side as I can move that adjuster forward and back a fair amount, and see the yoke move when I do that.

BTW, I spent my R&R from Vietnam in Oz, and really enjoyed it. I stayed at the Hotel Wentworth in Sidney. That was very nice. Ray

***********************
2F5209 CAT 22, 1967 E-Type Jaguar OTS, Trek 2300 road bike

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Wed, Mar 21, 2012 6:15 AM

edb

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[quote="Mike Meyer"]Hello, have you tried adjusting your steering levers? If you look forward of your two bolts a few inches you will see the 2 nuts you tighten to adjust your levers, that should give you more room on those two bolts, there will be a split pin, or bit of wire securing those nuts.
regards
Mike[/quote]

Thanks, Mike for the suggestion. Right now I don't need to adjust the clutches, but will keep that in mind for the future. I was just concerned that the clutches must be worn. Checking the thicknesses however, indicates that they are fine. Both clutch packs are around 2 5/8" thick, which appears to be fine. While I have the final drives off I figured I'd ask if I need to do anything to the clutches. I am a little concerned, however, that there may be a bearing problem with the left side as I can move that adjuster forward and back a fair amount, and see the yoke move when I do that.

BTW, I spent my R&R from Vietnam in Oz, and really enjoyed it. I stayed at the Hotel Wentworth in Sidney. That was very nice. Ray

Hi Ray,
if the release bearing cage the yoke lever connects to is not moving when you move the yoke lever then the bearing is likely OK.
The for and aft movement may be from wear at the ball pivot or steel bush at the bottom of the lever--fulcrum point, in the main case.
Your adjustment bolt positions do not indicate this. There is normally some side play of the yoke to the bearing cage but naturally this should be about the same each side.
Units with a grease update--later D2 etc have an O-ring each side of the bearing cage, on the bolts that the yoke pivots on, if these O-rings were ever fitted in the past by someone who did not understand they were not used on oil lubed units, they could give a false wear indication if one side did not have them--I am just supposing here as a possibility not an actuality.
If you can determine that the bearing cages, not the yokes, each side have about the same movement then there maybe no problem---the bearings used there are thrust bearings and usually have extra looseness to them due to their design--- There maybe just some hangup with the linkage etc on the side with least movement.
Cheers,
Eddie B.

PS
I took my R&R in Singapore as I knew if came back to OZ for it I may not be found to go back--nevertheless Singapore was a great place to visit--and cooler!!!
Met a lot of your fellow countrymen there too and had a great time.

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Wed, Mar 21, 2012 9:55 AM

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