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Steering Clutch Shaft

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mattk
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Quick question on steering clutch shaft removal. We purchased a D5 82H series that does not turn to the right. Had hoped that using it would break it loose as it was sitting for 18 months. No such luck. I pulled the rectangular covers off the back on either side of the winch cover and noticed that the whole steering clutch shaft moved to the left when I tried to steer to the right. We pulled the steering clutches on both sides and the caps that hold the outer races. My question is how do you remove the shaft to replace the bearings as they are both worn and pitted. I did not get a good look inside as it was almost dark by the time we got this far. Remove the ring gear? Any advice from this knowledgeable forum would be greatly apprecated. Thanks.
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Sat, Aug 9, 2008 9:16 AM
Old Magnet
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The D5 set up is almost identical to the older D6's. There should be no lateral movement of the cross shaft assembly and if it does move, you will have to replace the ring gear carrier bearings. To get them out you will have to remove the steering clutches (again), the steering booster assembly then the inner coupling flanges and bearing cages from both sides, unbolt the ring gear from the shaft and snake the shaft out through the center hole in the main case.
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Sun, Aug 10, 2008 3:06 AM
mattk
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Reply to Old Magnet:
The D5 set up is almost identical to the older D6's. There should be no lateral movement of the cross shaft assembly and if it does move, you will have to replace the ring gear carrier bearings. To get them out you will have to remove the steering clutches (again), the steering booster assembly then the inner coupling flanges and bearing cages from both sides, unbolt the ring gear from the shaft and snake the shaft out through the center hole in the main case.
Old Magnet,

This morning I went out and looked at it in daylight. After realizng what it took to remove the ring gear I decided to try and pull the bearings with the shaft in place. Much to my amazement I was able to pull them by hooking on to the cage with a three jaw puller๐Ÿ˜Š I got both off quite easily. After I get new bearings in im sure I'll need advice on how to adjust the steering clutches. Many thanks, Matt.
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Sun, Aug 10, 2008 10:39 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to mattk:
Old Magnet,

This morning I went out and looked at it in daylight. After realizng what it took to remove the ring gear I decided to try and pull the bearings with the shaft in place. Much to my amazement I was able to pull them by hooking on to the cage with a three jaw puller๐Ÿ˜Š I got both off quite easily. After I get new bearings in im sure I'll need advice on how to adjust the steering clutches. Many thanks, Matt.
Pulling the cage will get you the bearing cup....pulling the bearing cones off the ring gear shaft is another story๐Ÿ˜Š
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Sun, Aug 10, 2008 10:29 PM
tctractors
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Pulling the cage will get you the bearing cup....pulling the bearing cones off the ring gear shaft is another story๐Ÿ˜Š
Is this tractor a p/s or a clutch drive, if its a p/s the pinion is floating using the bevel gear lash to keep it in place, if the n/side bearing is knackered it allows the pinion to float out of position causing other damage to the transfer gears and case???

tctractors
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Mon, Aug 11, 2008 12:19 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to tctractors:
Is this tractor a p/s or a clutch drive, if its a p/s the pinion is floating using the bevel gear lash to keep it in place, if the n/side bearing is knackered it allows the pinion to float out of position causing other damage to the transfer gears and case???

tctractors
Hi tc,
The 82H is a direct drive....same old set up as the 8/9U's and others with the shim pack for the ring gear backlash adjustment and preload plus the shimmed pinion.
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Mon, Aug 11, 2008 12:42 AM
mattk
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Reply to Old Magnet:
Hi tc,
The 82H is a direct drive....same old set up as the 8/9U's and others with the shim pack for the ring gear backlash adjustment and preload plus the shimmed pinion.
Old Magnet,

Please help me understand the lingo. I thought that the outer race was the cup, the inner race was the cone and the thin metal holding the rollers in place was the cage. If my terminology is correct then the cup is in the "bearing caps" that the shims ride on and the seal is housed in. The cone and rollers are pressed on to the ring gear shaft. I was able to remove these off of the ring gear shaft with a puller. The bearings have a number of :Make TYSON HM212047 J USA and the outer race TYSON HM212011 J USA. Many Thanks.
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Mon, Aug 11, 2008 9:44 AM
Old Magnet
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Reply to mattk:
Old Magnet,

Please help me understand the lingo. I thought that the outer race was the cup, the inner race was the cone and the thin metal holding the rollers in place was the cage. If my terminology is correct then the cup is in the "bearing caps" that the shims ride on and the seal is housed in. The cone and rollers are pressed on to the ring gear shaft. I was able to remove these off of the ring gear shaft with a puller. The bearings have a number of :Make TYSON HM212047 J USA and the outer race TYSON HM212011 J USA. Many Thanks.
You are correct, that thin metal roller separator is referred to as a cage but Cat also refers to the holder for the outer race as a "cage' also. I think that is what you are calling a "bearing cap".

That's sort of good news and bad....the coupling flange is normally installed at a 20 - 25 ton press fit and usually takes more force than the average screw puller can provide, gripping the cone with a three jaw puller on the tractor can also be quite a challenge. The cage has provision for jacking screws for disassembly and it may also be possible to jack screw off the coupling by pushing against the cage cap screws.

Anyway sounds like you got them off๐Ÿ˜Š ๐Ÿ˜Š
You will have to access the ring gear to set the ring gear to pinion backlash when you reassemble.
Also be on the lookout for parts that seem loose on disassembly...possible spun bearing races, damaged/worn tapered spline etc. They normally don't come apart quite that easy.

Attached parts diagram:
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Mon, Aug 11, 2008 10:45 AM
alan627b
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Reply to Old Magnet:
You are correct, that thin metal roller separator is referred to as a cage but Cat also refers to the holder for the outer race as a "cage' also. I think that is what you are calling a "bearing cap".

That's sort of good news and bad....the coupling flange is normally installed at a 20 - 25 ton press fit and usually takes more force than the average screw puller can provide, gripping the cone with a three jaw puller on the tractor can also be quite a challenge. The cage has provision for jacking screws for disassembly and it may also be possible to jack screw off the coupling by pushing against the cage cap screws.

Anyway sounds like you got them off๐Ÿ˜Š ๐Ÿ˜Š
You will have to access the ring gear to set the ring gear to pinion backlash when you reassemble.
Also be on the lookout for parts that seem loose on disassembly...possible spun bearing races, damaged/worn tapered spline etc. They normally don't come apart quite that easy.

Attached parts diagram:
If you wander over to the "other" board, Kansas Cat just went through his
D5, which involved tearing most of the back end apart. He may be able to offer assistance, since he just got real familiar with his. Hope this helps,
alan627b
related posts
http://www.antiquecaterpillar.net/ACF_v2/showthread.php?t=13099
http://www.antiquecaterpillar.net/ACF_v2/showthread.php?t=13273
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Mon, Aug 11, 2008 1:56 PM
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