Steering Clutch Part Question

Best bet would be to find a parts tractor doner, Same #1A7676 washer used up to 7U22139.....then uses a different cage number and seal arrangement assy which would still fit the 2T.

Ended up making a washer. The washer appears to keep the oil in the thrust bearing instead of it just dropping out as it passes along the outer race from the through oil port. Not an exact match to the specified, but it should do the job.

bernie

At 7U22140 the seal, ring, cage assy and plugs change to
1H8176 cage assy
2A2746 plug (2 ea side)
5F3144 seal
1H7422 ring

No reason a fabricated washer wouldn't work...just an oil baffle. Does have an offset id vs od but probably not really neccessary.

Thanks for the detail OM-I went through the 7U22...assembly at the Washington, Indiana McAllister parts store this morning. I saw on the micro-fice there what you noted last night.

I had all other parts ready so I decided not to wait and proceed with a fabricated one. Once we got the clutch packs off, I wanted to keep moving on it.

Glad to have it assembled.

bernie

How'd your assembly turn out? I've never done that job, but someday I know I will on my D-2, 😮

Aloha from Hawaii.

Hello Haloe-

Went well. The clutch packs were rust welded on the tapered shaft. Those took quite a bit of time. Don't give up on them. The races on the cone and thrust bearins had to be heated out. No too difficult. I was happy I pullled together the parts I needed ahead of time. Not only to keep moving, but so it is easier to see what exactly I was pulling out and what it was supposed to look like.CAT was actually cheaper on the thrust and cone bearings. Still pricey.

My clutch pack width is 3-7/16 inches across on each side. I did not end up replacing those discs. I recalled reading here or over on ACME that the factory width was somewhere around 3-7/16 inches.

The bearnings, both types, pressed on very nicely. The problem was that the right side thrust bearings were trashed. Keeping them oiled is extremely important.

I was surprised at how well the bearing seal #1D4324 looked upon dissassemby. The rubber was as soft and plyable as the new one I installed. So much so that if I did not have the replacement and could have removed it undamaged, I would had used it again. The thower 2B8822 is discontinued. I am happy those were in such good shape too.

The set screws in #1A5329 nut came out easily on the left side. The right side was a bit tuffer. All four were replaced. I did not replace those nuts...wish I would have ordered replacements. Old ones work fine, just a little gnarled. Especially on the right side where things were rattling around.

Next step is to install them in the tractor. Moving slowly, but moving. I had some real help yesterday. I did not get any photos-no camera with me down home....

If I have any suggestion prior to beginning that is to get the appropriat manuals and parts book. I lucked out and have a parts book for my D4 that has an index in the back that has the part numbers numerically tabulated. Worked great as a cross ref. This particular parts book also gives the weight of each part and the cost at the time of publication. It also gives the manufacturers part number for the bearings. Foe example the bearing #2B9049 is a Timken #555 S as listed in my parts book. The Form Number is 8480. This particular book also has in it the exploded view of the steering clucth/bevel gear assembly. That view was very helpful, not only in assembly, but in ordering parts too. I really lucked out finding it.

bernie