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Starting problem with PV 15

Starting problem with PV 15

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gary ca
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I need some collective wisdom. This 15 was running when it was parked 20 years ago and stored outside in Calif. After rebuilding its Ensign carburetor and freeing up one valve, it will fire for a a second then quit. A compression check showed 25 lbs in cylinders 1,2 and 3 and 30 lbs in 4. A teaspoon of oil in each cylinder raised the compression in 1,2 and 3 (to 35 lbs) but not 4. So there are probably some ring issues and maybe valve issues. Thanks to John from Fresno, we put a known working carb on it and it did the same thing. It would run enough to build oil pressue but then quickly stop. I have a 1974 1 ton that once had the same symptoms and it turned out to be the ignition module. The 15 has a Wico mag and I am wondering if it is cutting out after gaining speed. Could I place the impulse clamp of a timing light on one ignition wire and hook the power to an independent battery and see if the the ignition is going dead? Your thoughts would be greatly appreciated. I am afraid of losing my friends who have done most of the cranking. Gary
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 9:05 PM
gary ca
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I like the idea of an inline spark tester. I am using a well vented auxillary tank since my tank is currently off the tractor. If anything, it seems like there is plenty of fuel around the carb. I did forget to mention that I have the throttle/govenor disconnected as it seems to be frozen. Does the governor have anything to do with the timing? I also need to resolve some clutch issues before I start towing. I may take you up on your cranking offer. Thanks, Gary
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 10:08 PM
chugwater crawlers
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Reply to gary ca:
I like the idea of an inline spark tester. I am using a well vented auxillary tank since my tank is currently off the tractor. If anything, it seems like there is plenty of fuel around the carb. I did forget to mention that I have the throttle/govenor disconnected as it seems to be frozen. Does the governor have anything to do with the timing? I also need to resolve some clutch issues before I start towing. I may take you up on your cranking offer. Thanks, Gary
I had the same issue on a PV-15. It turns out the plugs were fouled, even though they looked okay. I would try some new plugs before you tear into anything.
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 11:22 PM
Steve A
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Reply to chugwater crawlers:
I had the same issue on a PV-15. It turns out the plugs were fouled, even though they looked okay. I would try some new plugs before you tear into anything.
I would start with pulling the mag, have it cleaned, oiled and tested, its common for the coil insulation to break down and condensors to go bad after years of setting ,I would change the condenser as they are hard to test and cheap to replace.
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Sat, Feb 5, 2011 11:47 PM
gary ca
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Reply to Steve A:
I would start with pulling the mag, have it cleaned, oiled and tested, its common for the coil insulation to break down and condensors to go bad after years of setting ,I would change the condenser as they are hard to test and cheap to replace.
If all else fails, read the manual. When I took the mag off to work on it, I noted where it was popping in relation to the TDC mark on the crank pulley. It was hitting right on the TDC mark. That is where I set the timing before this last episode of cranking. Is is correct that the mag is firing as it pops? The manual says to place the timing so that number 1 hits the MAG line on the pulley. That is 25 degees before TDC. Could it be that this engine is tired enough that being 25 degrees retarded that it does not make enough power to keep itself going? I plan on moving the timing and try again. Thanks, Gary
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Sun, Feb 6, 2011 2:51 AM
ccjersey
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If it's an impulse mag and it's firing around TDC when you flip it over, that would be about right. The impulse should lock out and the timing advance once it starts.

To set one, turn the mag backwards so the impulse coupling doesn't engage, set it on it's mark, set the engine marks and then install the mag. Turning it forward, in the normal direction, the impulse cocks and trips just where you want to stop it to install on the engine.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Sun, Feb 6, 2011 3:49 AM
ronm
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Reply to ccjersey:
If it's an impulse mag and it's firing around TDC when you flip it over, that would be about right. The impulse should lock out and the timing advance once it starts.

To set one, turn the mag backwards so the impulse coupling doesn't engage, set it on it's mark, set the engine marks and then install the mag. Turning it forward, in the normal direction, the impulse cocks and trips just where you want to stop it to install on the engine.
C'mon, guys-read what the man said...25-35 psi compression? it's gonna be damned hard to start...:deadhorse:
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Sun, Feb 6, 2011 7:18 AM
zip
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Reply to ronm:
C'mon, guys-read what the man said...25-35 psi compression? it's gonna be damned hard to start...:deadhorse:
I know your right!!
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Sun, Feb 6, 2011 8:08 AM
Steve A
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Reply to zip:
I know your right!!
I wouldent get to excited about the Low compression. My dad bought a 22 that was in the same situation. Once we figured out/Corrected - a crack in side the intake manifold allowing a lean mixture it ran like a top. These were never a high compression engine to begin with not to mention sitting for 20 years. I have found if you cover the radiator and work it for a hour at high temp the compression will improve.
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Sun, Feb 6, 2011 10:07 PM
ol Grump
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Reply to zip:
I know your right!!
While the low compression might make it hard to start, apparently it does start but doesn't keep running. The first place I'd look at would be the exhaust system. .a blockage there could/would allow the engine to start but as back pressure built up, the engine would die. Pine cones/critter nests in the exhaust manifold/muffler could be in there. .I've seen that happen a few times.

Another place to check might be for something loose (like maybe a lost rag) in the intake system between the air cleaner (or even critter nests in the air cleaner itself) and carb that could block the air flow. If it's spewing black smoke as it dies, maybe that could be the problem? Just a few thoughts. . .
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Sun, Feb 6, 2011 10:08 PM
ronm
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Reply to ol Grump:
While the low compression might make it hard to start, apparently it does start but doesn't keep running. The first place I'd look at would be the exhaust system. .a blockage there could/would allow the engine to start but as back pressure built up, the engine would die. Pine cones/critter nests in the exhaust manifold/muffler could be in there. .I've seen that happen a few times.

Another place to check might be for something loose (like maybe a lost rag) in the intake system between the air cleaner (or even critter nests in the air cleaner itself) and carb that could block the air flow. If it's spewing black smoke as it dies, maybe that could be the problem? Just a few thoughts. . .
:deadhorse::deadhorse::deadhorse:
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Mon, Feb 7, 2011 1:54 AM
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