Starting engine clutch removal

First thing is to flush the compartment with keosene or diesel etc to get rid of gum and sediment that may be causeing your problem. Also check your clutch adjustment, it doesn't have to have a hard snap over, only a light one will pull the load. Then refill with automatic transmission fluid, low viscosity tractor hytran etc. and try that. I have found that I must snatch up pretty hard on the pinion shift lever once I get the pinion stopped. Also helps to idle the pony down before trying to brake the pinion.

If you're to the point of modifying the clutch disks, and do not need to do anything to the pinion and latches inside, you can simply unbolt the cover on the front end of the housing that has the lever on the side of it, unbolt the cover with the lever from the side and then remove the castellated nut and the bearing support plate to access the stack of brake disks, the clutch mechanism and finally the clutch disks.

If you must remove the whole thing, you have to drain the main engine cooling system down and lift the pony motor up to allow the pinion mechanism to clear the pony drive idler gear as it slides forward. Then latch the pinion into the flywheel to shorten the assembly as much as possible. I believe it will come out without any further disassembly, but you can remove the front cover if you need just a little bit more room or even remove the governor if you need a lot. The large o-ring around the pinion housing that seals it into the clutch housing can be a problem to break loose, do not pry too hard on the ears of the pinion clutch housing, easy to pop one off. Spray with penetrating oil, work it a little back and forth, twist etc and it will eventually come out.

If the flushing didn't cure it, I would try to fix it without removing the whole thing .

Are you aware that there is a brake in the starting engine clutch ,and that by pulling the clutch engaging lever to the rear of the tractor ,breaks the pinion shaft ,so that the pinion can be engaged without or minium grinding of the pinon to the flywheel gear ?
I have seen many an operater that never knew that fact!
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There is no need to engage the pinion to shorten assembly length. There is plenty of room for removal on the D6, unlike the D2's and D4's.

Thanks for all your replies. It looks like the yoke is hitting the cage before it can put pressure on the brake. Any remedies for this ? I thought of notching the yoke. If I could get the brake end to make contact would help. Any ideas would be helpful. Thanks Bill