Some D2 questions

""""The left hand steering clutch seems unresponsive after the machine warms up.When first operating it does work some what not great like the right side,once the machine warms up when you pull the steering lever it just stops the machine.The left steering clutch lever does sit about 1.5" further back than the right one when not engaged.I did open up the plate with the 6 bolts,it does appear dry and everything seems to be functioning.does it sound like it is out of adjustment?"""""

OK, first things first......... You engage a steering clutch by letting the lever go forward against the stop at the bottom This lets the springs compress the clutch pack and the inner drum and outer drum turn together, transmitting power to that track. You disengage the steering clutches by pulling the lever back. This compresses the springs, taking pressure off the friction discs and lets the inner drum spin in the outer drum if there is sufficient load to make it slip. Many times you have to use the brake to increase the load on just that one track in order to make it really break loose and slip so you can make a tight turn.

Now, the left side sounds like the good side! When you disengage it, the tractor stops which means the right side begins to slip under the whole load of moving the tractor. Check the adjustment of both sides, but especially the right side which may be bottoming out against the forward stop. Do you have a manual? Adjustment instructions are in the owners manual and unless there is a lot of wear in all the linkages, or the clutches are just worn out, that will likely get you going. As a quick check, you need about 3" of free travel at the top of the steering clutch lever before you feel it begin to compress the springs, just to ensure the clutches can fully engage when the lever is released and moves to the full forward position.

""""Every now and again the track will let out a loud bang,when at the rear sprocket.I had my wife follow the machine she said it look like the track pad was binding and then snapping back into place.I have been operating in the snow 6-12" clearing bush.Could the tracks be too tight for winter operation?The tracks look tight with little slack,or could a chunk of tree got stuck in the rails?or could it be something else?
Thanks in advance 😊""""""

Sounds like snow packing in the tracks. But what would I know about that?😄 Someone from somewhere that has snow can fill you in on how to cope with that.

On the pony pinion latches, look for a small cover held on by two bolts near the left brake pedal. A few really old tractors don't have it, but most do. Remove it and you can see the pinion adjustment. Since yours holds until you put compression to it, maybe you can just adjust it and get it to function well enough. It also helps to warm the engine up well and give it a good amount of throttle before you throw the compression lever in so when it pops once, it will keep running instead of just kicking the latches out. But it's harder to warm the engine up properly if it won't turn it with the compression release off (in or run position). Do you put the compression release lever in the run position with the throttle closed or open? The recommended practice is to keep the throttle in shutoff position (full forward) and turn the main engine with the compression on to increase the heat buildup both from the compression in the cylinders as well as the increased load placed on the pony motor. When it's properly warmed up, then open the throttle and see if it wants to start immediately instead of just kicking out the pinion latches.

The popping noise is probably from the snow getting packed in the links as CC says.You can cut holes in your pads to let the snow through.It has been discussed on here so if you do a search it should come up.

Thanks for your answers guys.As far as the pinion the temp was about -2C I let the pony warm the deisel 5-7 minute,and then get the deisel engine spinning fo about 5 minutes before switching the compression lever from start to run at which time I have to hold the pinion till the deisel fires up.I will look at all these once things warm up and I head to my property.I was quite impressed with the power of the little D2 for clearing trails.
I wish I had the knowledge you guys possess.😮

Thanks for your answers guys.As far as the pinion the temp was about -2C I let the pony warm the deisel 5-7 minute,and then get the deisel engine spinning fo about 5 minutes before switching the compression lever from start to run at which time I have to hold the pinion till the deisel fires up.I will look at all these once things warm up and I head to my property.I was quite impressed with the power of the little D2 for clearing trails.
I wish I had the knowledge you guys possess.😮

[quote="lil d2"]Thanks for your answers guys.As far as the pinion the temp was about -2C I let the pony warm the deisel 5-7 minute,and then get the deisel engine spinning fo about 5 minutes before switching the compression lever from start to run at which time I have to hold the pinion till the deisel fires up.I will look at all these once things warm up and I head to my property.I was quite impressed with the power of the little D2 for clearing trails.
I wish I had the knowledge you guys possess.😮[/quote]

Seems like I've seen more videos of people starting these engines by closing the valves the with the diesel turned on.

That is incorrect! After warming the starter engine, start the rotation of the big engine with the valves open and the diesel off. After the little engine has the big engine rotating comfortably and oil pressure is up close the valves.

Then after about a cigarette, (depends on outside temp) turn the diesel on. The big engine should start immediately.

The only engines that fired spasmodically were the 3cyl engines. All others I've been around started right up.

BTW lll D2, the clearance between the pinion lever and the machine is less than what a finger requires for comfort!! I found that out!

I finally ended up changing(fixing) the pinion engagement dogs.