Several questions about my D2

Look on eBay for parts catalog, serviceman's manual (repairs), and operator's manual for your serial # (covers a range). The correct range is important because Cat frequently upgraded parts and designs and they're not all interchangeable. Cat Legendary Literature may also be able to provide high quality reproductions - I got my 3J parts catalog from them and I like it because it's a larger size format so easier to read

Get the parts catalog because you're going to need a ton of gaskets etc. and posting those gets old : )

Cat has direct replacement gauges that fit.

I cleaned my pony tank with citric acid and lined it with one of those products - works fine.

Yes, you can get those anywhere to fit e.g. Tractor Supply, mower store, small engine warehouse. I'm going to replace my original Zenith one because it too does not seal well and that's more important to me than looking old school.

I've used the temp gauge from the local auto parts store. Fit just fine and the black and white fave didn't look to bad
Tractor supply had a shut off with a glass sediment bowl that looks close to the original. I'm thinking a mechanical oil pressure gauge could be adapted in also. That's if you just want it to work, if you're restoring you'll have to find the originals. There's a link to parts suppliers at the top of the forum page.
Pony motor is pretty straightforward just need to make sure you have all the nuts off. They're hard to get at but not impossible.
I don't have any experience with the epoxy coating in the gas tank but know guys who have done it with good results
Lots of info here from a lot of knowledgeable guys

[quote="d2gary"]I've used the temp gauge from the local auto parts store. Fit just fine and the black and white fave didn't look to bad
Tractor supply had a shut off with a glass sediment bowl that looks close to the original. I'm thinking a mechanical oil pressure gauge could be adapted in also. That's if you just want it to work, if you're restoring you'll have to find the originals. There's a link to parts suppliers at the top of the forum page.
Pony motor is pretty straightforward just need to make sure you have all the nuts off. They're hard to get at but not impossible.
I don't have any experience with the epoxy coating in the gas tank but know guys who have done it with good results
Lots of info here from a lot of knowledgeable guys[/quote]

Good to know I can find gauges to fit. They just need to work restoration isn’t in the near future I’m putting this ole girl back to work, retirement is on hiatuse ! I have the original gauges still just don’t want to spend the money to have them restored right now, you can bet they will be put in a safe place though. There seems to a lot of knowledgeable folks on here. And I love how willing to share that information you all are

I cleaned my pony tank by putting bolts,nuts,some sand and water in it, strapped it to my lawn mower tire and let it churn. cleaned it out good and then coated the inside with an epoxy. it plugged all the pinholes in it. I just added and inline filter for the carburetor gas line

yes there was a sediment bowl (glass) - they're quite a nice look but unfortunately no longer available.
Post your serial #

yes there was a sediment bowl (glass) - they're quite a nice look but unfortunately no longer available.
Post your serial #

[quote="Neil"]yes there was a sediment bowl (glass) - they're quite a nice look but unfortunately no longer available.
Post your serial #[/quote]

I was thinking you could still get the original fuel valve from Cat, just reuse the glass bowl.

Hal, I talked to a person that runs a radiator shop about cleaning my pony fuel tank before I coated the inside. He recommended Muriatic Acid diluted. It is used in swimming pools and other applications. I got it at D&B Supply. I used it and it worked very well. Got all the rust out completely from any pits or dings in the tank.. Rinse with baking soda and water to neutralise the acid. Dry inside to prevent any more rust from forming before coating. Need to let the new coating cure very well before adding fuel.

Bruce