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Serial # information

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sodbuster25
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I have a D69U Serial # 9U10453. I was wondering if anyone could give me any info on this crawler. This is my first crawler so im a little in the dark on how to go about this. I think it has the D318 engine, but not sure. I am going to rebuild the engine and replace the clutch. Would it be easier to pull the motor or the trans to get to the clutch? Its a dry clutch. Thanks
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Tue, Dec 4, 2007 9:35 PM
SJ
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Your tractor would have a D318 engine & you don,t need to pull either the trans. or engine as it will come out without going to all that work. Are you just doing an in frame overhaul of the diesel? If a major rebuild is done then it would have to be removed & then the clutch could be done out of the tractor but the coupling will have to be removed between the clutch & tranny.If just liners and main bearings & pistons & head are to be removed then the belly pan & oil pan can be removed to just go that far which probably is all you,ll need anyway so the engine won,t have to be removed.If mains aren,t removed then the rods can be removed by just going through the side covers of the block which I have on dozens of D4 & D6s and other tractors & engines.
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Tue, Dec 4, 2007 10:02 PM
sodbuster25
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Reply to SJ:
Your tractor would have a D318 engine & you don,t need to pull either the trans. or engine as it will come out without going to all that work. Are you just doing an in frame overhaul of the diesel? If a major rebuild is done then it would have to be removed & then the clutch could be done out of the tractor but the coupling will have to be removed between the clutch & tranny.If just liners and main bearings & pistons & head are to be removed then the belly pan & oil pan can be removed to just go that far which probably is all you,ll need anyway so the engine won,t have to be removed.If mains aren,t removed then the rods can be removed by just going through the side covers of the block which I have on dozens of D4 & D6s and other tractors & engines.
I am planning just to do an inframe. Liners, pistions, rods and mains. Where would you recommend getting parts? What do I need to remove to get to the clutch? Also, do you know about what year this machine would be? Thanks a lot.
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Tue, Dec 4, 2007 10:17 PM
SJ
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Reply to sodbuster25:
I am planning just to do an inframe. Liners, pistions, rods and mains. Where would you recommend getting parts? What do I need to remove to get to the clutch? Also, do you know about what year this machine would be? Thanks a lot.
I don,t have a year of machines when they were made but only starting production which is 1947 but yours probably was made in the earlier 1950s or middle. There is a top cover on the clutch area to remove it & there is the clutch but the floor boards need removed first. As for parts you have a couple choices either go to Cat or there are after market parts available so maybe someone on here can direct you to a good source. Also I forgot to menton the rear main bearing cap has a cord packing drove up in along each side of it so it must be installed after the cap is up & torqued down & the Cat # is 2B2414.I have put probably a 100 of them in and I always cut about a 6" piece at a time & drove it up in tight with a narrow punch till you get it filled completely.I would keep folding it back and forth up in the hole till it was full & drive each piece up tight as you go.
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Tue, Dec 4, 2007 10:49 PM
sodbuster25
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Reply to SJ:
I don,t have a year of machines when they were made but only starting production which is 1947 but yours probably was made in the earlier 1950s or middle. There is a top cover on the clutch area to remove it & there is the clutch but the floor boards need removed first. As for parts you have a couple choices either go to Cat or there are after market parts available so maybe someone on here can direct you to a good source. Also I forgot to menton the rear main bearing cap has a cord packing drove up in along each side of it so it must be installed after the cap is up & torqued down & the Cat # is 2B2414.I have put probably a 100 of them in and I always cut about a 6" piece at a time & drove it up in tight with a narrow punch till you get it filled completely.I would keep folding it back and forth up in the hole till it was full & drive each piece up tight as you go.
Thanks for the info.
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Wed, Dec 5, 2007 1:09 AM
catalac
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Reply to sodbuster25:
Thanks for the info.
Sodbuster & SJ,

The D6 was built in 1952 according to the club Serial Number Reference book.

Regards,
Lee
Lee Sorbel-ACMOC Past President
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Wed, Dec 5, 2007 1:24 AM
ccjersey
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Reply to catalac:
Sodbuster & SJ,

The D6 was built in 1952 according to the club Serial Number Reference book.

Regards,
Lee
You will really want the Serviceman's Reference book for the D69U tractor and the D318 engine (2 books). These books cover all the 9U tractors and D318 engines from start to finish. The parts book for your tractor will have to be one that includes your serial number because of the break at 13263. The later parts book is more common. The operator's and maintenance manual will also cover all the tractors. So a total of 4 books for complete set.

Check out ebay
http://business.search.ebay.com/Caterpillar-CAT-D6_Business-Industrial_W0QQcatrefZC6QQfposZ36738QQfromZR10QQfsooZ1QQfsopZ1QQftrtZ1QQftrvZ1QQsabfmtsZ1QQsacatZ12576QQsadisZ200QQsaobfmtsZinsifQQsargnZQ2d1QQsaslcZ2QQsbrftogZ1QQsofocusZunknown

or CAT legendary literature outfit for the manuals.
http://www.cat.com/cda/layout?m=90800&x=7

Have you tried to adjust the clutch? It's not too hard and there's usually some life left, just get some firm "snap over" in the main clutch lever. That tractor will have had a dry clutch from the factory, though it may have been retrofitted at some point. One of ours is 11713 (before the oil clutch became standard @13263) and had been changed out. The dry clutch will have "thermoids" or fiber/rubber drive links that pull the clutch driving plate around with the flywheel. These will last only a short time unless you have the engine properly aligned with the clutch (shims under the 4 corners of the engine), and also have the links themselves installed where they are pulling straight (keep track of the washers etc. that keep the links in line on the pins). These links are quite expensive by the time you buy a set (of 5?), so it pays to install them properly.

Here's the parts source listing from this website thanks to KidNV and others.
http://www.acmoc.org/ACMOC_BB/showthread.php?t=492

Please keep us updated on your progress.
D2-5J's, D6-9U's, D318 and D333 power units, 12E-99E grader, 922B & 944A wheel loaders, D330C generator set, DW20 water tanker and a bunch of Jersey cows to take care of in my spare time😄
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Wed, Dec 5, 2007 9:55 AM
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